opening up 12v piston bowls while in the block

turbominivan

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May 5, 2013
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108
while i have the head on my diesel rat rod due to a broken top ring land, i figured i might as well cut my factory bowls bigger.
im lazy and cheap so im doing it in frame while thy are still in the block.

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i assume i broke it because fuel was spraying outside the bowl due to my increased timing and compression ratio, so this is my cheap 'hold my beer and watch this' solution.

i used an old worn piston from Tate and cut the top off at the first ring grove to begin making my 'jig'. i chopped it off with a grinder.

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i then chucked it up in my mini lathe and opened up the hole to my desired diameter. basically just to get rid of the lip that hangs over the top of the bowl. to about 58mm. i probably could have gone as far as 59.5mm before cutting too much into the walls of the bowl.
after the lathe work i cleaned up the bore to be smooth with a piece of sand paper by hand.

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i then put it in my brothers lathe and cleaned it up to be flat and true. it ended up about 5/16" thick. because i needed the 'jig' tight in the cylinder i took up the slack/play by wrapping the 'jig' with 2 layers of electrical tape so it would press fit or tap tightly into each cylinder.

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i then taped off the other cylinders and openings in the deck and brought the piston i was working on up to about 1/4" from TDC. i aligned my 'jig' with the hole and taped it in with a rubber mallet.

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i had to modify my top bearing router bit by cutting the cutter edge down in length. my grinder had a hard time with its carbide.
once i had the depth set as i needed it, i moved the router carefully around the bore in a counter clockwise rotation cutting in slowly to avoid getting things too hot and making an ugly cut from melted aluminum chips. you really have to hold on and keep control of it or it will grab and run away on you and you risk chewing into the center cone. once i got most of the meat taken down, i gave it a few clockwise rotations to clean it up nicely. i used a touch of WD-40 on the router base so it didn't drag.

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once i was satisfied i brought the piston up to TDC expelling the tightly fitting jig and cleaned away the chips with compressed air. it made a great cut and it was now opened to 58mm. i used a piece of 180 grit sand paper to carefully smooth the newly routered edge and get it ready for the next cut.

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perhaps this next step was unnecessary or even dumb but i decided to put a slight bevel on the edge.... because i saw someone else do that to theirs. haha. no other reason.

i used another smaller router and set it up with what i believe is a 10* or 15* bottom bearing bit.
i set it up to cut about 5mm deep and to a 60.5mm diameter. it cut beautifully!

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i then used a small piece of 180 grit sand paper to smooth/bevel the sharp top edge.

i have no idea what kind of compression to expect, or what cc the bowls are now, but as for looks and from what ive read, they should work good enough for my cheap back yard style of hot rodding!
i guess we shall see!
 
What about balance? I would think that would throw it off, possibly a lot.
 
If anything they might be different one from another by a gram or 2. Thats the beauty of the jig and a router. They are all consistent. Much more consistent and controlled than using your eyes and a die grinder anyways.
 
I was wondering that myself. So just replacing a single piston?
 
Ya he has a thread about it. It managed not to hurt anything somehow. That's all I would do in something that's a weekend toy and that easy to work on :hehe:
 
I was thinking to just replace #3 that broke but as ive looked closer ive found 3 others that look like they had some fuel getting outside the bowl causing pitting and some future damage/failure, so im replacing all but #2 & 6 that look to be good. I will still pull each one and clean out the ring grooves while im in there and inspect them. Ill probably also hone the walls if people think thats wise??? The cylinders look fine but since its open....?
#2 that is pictured has a skuff in it. Its not a crack although it had me worried too until i looked at it magnified.

Like said above, its a weekend hot rod with an open engine bay. It can have the top end torn down in under 45min if needed. the cars entire goal from the beginning has always been to get as much full retard as possible using old parts and as little money as possible. True backyard hot rodding.
 
These in frame piston mods have become quite popular lately. Nice job!!
 
well it looked like all 6 pistons had some ugly signs of beginning damage due to heat right on the edge of the top ring land, so i decided to just ditch them all and ordered new 1st gen non-IC pistons, then i opened these up a bit..... because im not able to leave anything well enough alone.
i used the same 15* router bit and went once around carefully, then finished each one up by hand with some 3M abrasive cloth. i think they turned out awesome. now to run some 30*+ timing!

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I have a question, if you have access to a lathe why didnt you put the new pistions in the lathe and machine the bowls that way? looks really good BTW. How long did it take? i know about the bowls being off center, but i have the same non I/C pistons for my rebuild i havnt done yet, and we chucked them up and made the bowl the center in the lathe and did the same thing.
 
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it took me about an hour to do all 6. i figured it was faster and i could be more consistent with a router. im not a pro with the lathe by any means. i would be really mad if i screwed up my new set of pistons attempting to be extra fancy on the lathe and try something ive never done before.
 
Looks good! The bevel is very necessary in my experience. If there's any sharp edges, the edge will always be melted into a 2-3mm radius after running the engine hard.
 
nice glad to see I'm not the only one to use a router on pistons while still in the block.
 
I have a question, if you have access to a lathe why didnt you put the new pistions in the lathe and machine the bowls that way? looks really good BTW. How long did it take? i know about the bowls being off center, but i have the same non I/C pistons for my rebuild i havnt done yet, and we chucked them up and made the bowl the center in the lathe and did the same thing.

Could you center the bowl since its offset in a lathe?
 
[QUOT E=dvst8r;2435239]Yes, with a 4 jaw chuck.[/QUOTE]
thanks hahaha you beat me to a reply. It's a little hard at first but once you get one in the center it's a easy.
 
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