P-Pump F.A.Q. READ THIS FIRST!!!

coon smile said:
bolt on cam gear for +4K rpm??
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Not something that you have to have but, if your doing the swap its worth the money.

The helical cut on the gear train tries to "walk" the cam gear off the cam snout through the timing cover. In a stock appication its almost a non issue and an extemly rare occurance. A built P-pump takes alot of power to turn, it will increase the amount of presure pushing on the cam gear substatialy. It can push the gear right off the cam.

If your gonna run a 13mm pump or a heavily modded 12mm a billet cam is highly recomended. A quick release of the throttle can cause the cam to break from the RPM and pressure they put on them.

I believe hamiton has a cast cam that will hold up too that abuse though. Dont quote me on that.
 
anybody know if there is any mods available for the 12v tps ? my truck is shifting funny from 1-2, even with a billet trans.
 
Lets stress that you should have a good understanding of the 24v and espically the 12v fuel system operation and troubleshooting. I cant count how many times I see guys trying to tackle this conversion themselves when they dont have much experience or knowledge of the fuel systems.
Get all the right information first. And remember, it will take some tuning to get these to run correctly, so don't get discouraged just because it doesnt run exactly the way you want the first time you drive it.
 
FosterW said:
Lets stress that you should have a good understanding of the 24v and espically the 12v fuel system operation and troubleshooting. I cant count how many times I see guys trying to tackle this conversion themselves when they dont have much experience or knowledge of the fuel systems.
Get all the right information first. And remember, it will take some tuning to get these to run correctly, so don't get discouraged just because it doesnt run exactly the way you want the first time you drive it.
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Good point, the p7100 takes alittle more fine tuning to run perfect.
 
Tps Wiring

Here are pics so you can see how to wire the 12v tps. You will use wire 3,4 and 5 from the wiring harness
 

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Anyone got some advice for me as how to take the jumpyness/quick throttle response out of my 01 ppumped 24v. bumps and 1-3 gear are pretty darn touchy on the throttle. stiffer spring? 2 springs? advice?
 
How about cummins part numbers to make it easier for some to purchase new parts (i.e Brackets,linkage and what not):poke:
 
Highfinance97 said:
How about cummins part numbers to make it easier for some to purchase new parts (i.e Brackets,linkage and what not):poke:
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IIRC Cummins is not producing the linkage anymore. Seems I heard this from a fellow member that talked with Jeff (Snedge).
 
I dont know if they are pruducing them but they are still redilly available. I bought my kit from Scheids and it come with all cummins parts on a box that had a cummins sticker that said throttle kit or something like that. I also order the bent rod, ball socket ends and new ball studs for another truck and didnt have problems getting them.
 
j-rod said:
IIRC Cummins is not producing the linkage anymore. Seems I heard this from a fellow member that talked with Jeff (Snedge).
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Not true. They are available. I just don't stock the stuff, maybe I was misunderstood. It happens.

Here is a short list :)

3933291 T oil feed
3925377 spring
3931510 spring
3931559 P7100 bracket ( mounts to the side of the pump)
3931569 lever bell crank
3932222 screw (2)
3900629 Bolt (6)
3932317 (throttle control rod with ends)
3933130 Spring

That should pretty much cover you as far as the Cummins stuff goes.
Two different variations. I'll try to find the pic that shows the TPS. And a part # later
 
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how do i get ahold of the guys at eat soot? anywere else to gat that restriced fitting?
 
I figured I'd post this here as well since i didn't really see anything about it in this thread.

Solenoid Wiring:

Black: Ground
Red: Hold-In low current
White: Pull-In high current

Grounding:
I would suggest starting off building a new ground strap/wire for the relay, the ECU, and the Solenoid (Preferably 10ga or 12ga wire) tapped onto the the existing ground strap on the front drivers side corner of the engine bay. That way it gives you a clean chassis and battery ground. My dash started giving me errors and no gauges because with my new bracket for my ECU wasnt properly grounded, so i would suggest running a ground strap to it.

Hold-in
I used the existing key on power wire out of the stock VP44 plug harness for the hold position. If you look through the wires on the plug it should be the Red wire with a green tracer (at least this is what it is on my 99 (take a second and check with your voltmeter.

Pull-in and relay
I tapped the starter trigger wire; it's REALLY easy to find since the plug for it is just clipped to the fuse box in the engine bay, it should be a brown wire coming out of the sheath of the positive starter cable. Just run a branch off of that to your relay of choice. I used a 30A generic relay from schucks. I would suggest tapping a positive power wire out of the fuse box on the fused side of the main line coming into it for the solenoid.

If I find a digital camera to use i'll try to get some pics up (mine came to an unfortunate and very early fate at a game of drunken miniature basketball).

-Brendan
 
How to find TDC using the drop valve method

Remove valve cover. Bar engine watching the rockers on the #6 cylinder. When the exhaust begins to close and intake is just cracking open, stop. That is close to TDC on exhaust, which means #1 is close to TDC on compression. Back engine up a bit. Install dial on intake valve, use lash adjuster to run the valve down 0.100" Bar engine forward until you deflect the dial a couple thou. I go to .002". Mark damper. Back the engine up a bit so you're not pressing against the valve. Adjust the rocker so the valve closes. Bar the engine well past TDC. Set the valve back down 0.100". Bar the engine backwards until you deflect the dial again to the amount you used before. Mark the damper. Measure the center of these marks, that is your TDC.

Don't do it on the exhaust stroke. At TDC, both valves are moving, which means your marks will be at different distances away from true TDC. It might not be out much, but why not do it properly when its only on revolution away? Likewise, this method requires no disassembly, only have to lash on valve to be back up and running.
 
roachie said:
Something I forgot:

Oil Feed line

The P7100 is oil lubricated. To do the swap you will need a oil line "T" and line. The "T" is oem for a 12V. You will also need the too connect the pump to the oil supply. It is a -4an line, will also need a line to go from the "T" to the power steering pump.

The OEM inlet of the P-pump is blocked by the head. Luckily the pump has 2 inlets. The other is on the drivers side of the pump. The original inlet needs to be blocked, It uses an 1/8 NPT IIRC.

The secondary feed is a different thread, you will need a special fitting with a restricor. They can be found here. http://www.shop.eatsoot.com/category.sc?categoryId=5

They also have the cam sensor braket for the 01-02's.
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Did everyone buy this fitting?
 
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