p0088 max rail pressure

JohhnyFoxtrot

JohhnyFoxtrot

need a trailer
Joined
May 25, 2007
Messages
1,179
Well drove my truck the other day and it was running low on fuel. I didn't have time to put any in it and I was close to home so I just drove home. Truck ran fine all the way here and into the garage.
Today I came out to the garage and tried to start it and it cranked for a long time each time I hit the key. It did start finally and smoked white like it always does but it continued to do so as I got some stuff ready to leave. I looked in when it didn't stop smoking white and got worse and the rail guage said 27.5k.
I have unhooked each FCA seperately and together and no change, tried each pump hooked as if it was a single pump truck, and unhooked the guage with no change. I searched and only found a few ideas which I did try to no avail. I am getting where I will trade or sell this mother off and start over again. Every week its something different.

I have dual pumps ATS controller for it. Bottom pump is a stg 2 Floor-It top is stock DMAX. Have everything unhooked to rule it out and nothing. Fuel pressure is at 20psi that it always is. I did have truck at dealer last week and all come out ok except a sensor on the trans but it is fixed now.

Any ideas of things I can check with out putting it on a trailer and taking it to dealer for testing would be great. I also have access to a Snap-On Modius for testing on my own if I knew what to look for.

I also have a p0134 or 241 code for fuel something I erased it already but have had it before and clear it and its gone.
 
This is the EXACT same problem I have been dealing with for a while now. Today the RP sensor came in with no change at all. All pigtails have been off and tightened the pin some for a better connection - still no change. Replaced the ATS controller - still no change. I have both the Dmax FCA and Cummins FCA coming in tomorrow. If that STILL doesn't change anything then I will be completely out of ideas of what to do. All I can figure if it's not that then all of the wires will be getting ripped apart to look for shorts. Mine is throwing the same codes as yours. :nail:

Keep us updated on what you do, and i'll do the same. I agree with you on getting ready to sell it. There is a different problem every day and I'm also getting tired of it. Those new Cummins or Duramax's keep looking better each day.
 
As Soon as I have the harness and FCAs done you will be able to bypass all the aftermarket dual electronics.Also disconnect Top pump and run on the Bottom pump only. IMO the aftermarket duals were fooled into think the D-MAX pump was superior to the Cummins Pump.The Only advantage the D-Max Pump has is 2 bigger bushing (Shaft) some of the internals are completely the same,and most parts for the D-Max pump are 2/3 time the cost.
 
TCDiesel said:
As Soon as I have the harness and FCAs done you will be able to bypass all the aftermarket dual electronics.Also disconnect Top pump and run on the Bottom pump only. IMO the aftermarket duals were fooled into think the D-MAX pump was superior to the Cummins Pump.The Only advantage the D-Max Pump has is 2 bigger bushing (Shaft) some of the internals are completely the same,and most parts for the D-Max pump are 2/3 time the cost.
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I did unhook all the the top pump and just ran the bottom pump alone and it was no change.
 
subscibing...i've had some issues with my dual fuelers as well. I have been getting a P0148 and just started gettting P0191. Going to have it scanned tomorrow.
 
At this point I don't want to let it run long enough to get on trailer to take it to dealer. I on the other hand would have it dealer scanned if it was there. I have found that a lot of times its cheaper to have the dealer scan it and tell me exactly what's wrong vs. Trial and error even one time.

I also forgot to add the dealer last week did tell me that the fused box under hood was on its way out due to a starting issue I was having. Not sure if this could be a side effect of it.
 
JohhnyFoxtrot said:
At this point I don't want to let it run long enough to get on trailer to take it to dealer. I on the other hand would have it dealer scanned if it was there. I have found that a lot of times its cheaper to have the dealer scan it and tell me exactly what's wrong vs. Trial and error even one time.
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I'm with you on this one. If the FCA's don't fix this it will be getting towed to the dealer to have them scan it. I'm pretty much doing anything I can to get this thing running since I have a dyno competition this weekend. :soap:
 
I know the feeling man I had planned on going drag racing friday and now don't look like it will happen.
 
JohhnyFoxtrot said:
I know the feeling man I had planned on going drag racing friday and now don't look like it will happen.
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Johnny if you want PM me your number and I'll give you a call tomorrow and I'll take you down the checklist of what iv done the past couple of days and see of we can spark an idea. I'm debating now if I should just tow it to the dealer because it is starting to seem like a computer problem. I changed the Cummins CP3 today with no change. The Dmax FCA comes in tomorrow so that's a worth a shot before I start looking at a new truck.
 
10-29-2009, 07:30 PM #15
kyle_sdp


Name: kyle_sdp
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Cedar City, UT
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Posts: 16
Easiest way to test rail pressure sensor is to get a scan tool that will read the sensor voltage. See what the voltage is when the connector is plugged in, key on, engine off, then unplug the sensor. should go right to 5 volts. if the voltage with the connector plugged in is just under 5 volts with the key on, engine off, the rail pressure sensor is bad. If it is right at 5 volts then you have a wiring or ECM problem possibly. rail pressure sensors aren't cheap so i wouldn't just throw one at it.

If you dont have a scan tool you'll have to find which wire is the 5 volt reference and which wire is the signal wire and tap the signal wire with a volt meter to watch it. the 3rd wire is a ground i believe. I am not at work and i dont know the pinout on that connector off the top of my head.
__________________
2001 Dodge Cummins 4X4 2500 QC, SB. Full billet rans, II Silver 62, edge comp, 8 hole nozzles, water/meth, bullet cam, arp studs, 538 HP 1080 TQ, 12.9 1/4

Smith Diesel Parts
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I found this in another thread so I tried with a volt meter and the rail pressure sensor connector. One wire was ground the opposite side wire was at 4.97v and the middle wire was at 5.27v all was done wit hkey on truck off.

I also tried to hook up bottom pump only again. Took All ATS wires off and reconnected the stock harness to bottom pump and left rail sensor plugged in which is in top pump and started truck. It took alot longer to get to max pressure but still went and stayed there. Gonna try and get into dealer today on trailer.
 
Please call Me before stealer ship repair. I will help VIA Phone..
 
Well as of now its fixed. Pressure seems to be in order and running and sounding fine. Now for what I done to get it to this point this morning.
1st borrowed a friends '06 and I knew I had a problem with the fuse box thing underhood so I swapped his for mine and my truck started and ran fine like nothing had happened. I put mine in his and his started no problem ran fine. SO I swapped them back and put the right ones in the right truck and now mine runs fine with myine back in. I did notice a connector under box that was not snapped in all the way from when it was at dealer last week and may have just jarred itself loose.

I am not sure if this is a fix for me but I will drive it a little today and update later.
 
JohhnyFoxtrot said:
Well as of now its fixed. Pressure seems to be in order and running and sounding fine. Now for what I done to get it to this point this morning.
1st borrowed a friends '06 and I knew I had a problem with the fuse box thing underhood so I swapped his for mine and my truck started and ran fine like nothing had happened. I put mine in his and his started no problem ran fine. SO I swapped them back and put the right ones in the right truck and now mine runs fine with myine back in. I did notice a connector under box that was not snapped in all the way from when it was at dealer last week and may have just jarred itself loose.

I am not sure if this is a fix for me but I will drive it a little today and update later.
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So you swapped out the fuse box and all of a sudden it works? Let me know which connector you are talking about so I can try and give it a shot. I'm glad you got yours working though!
 
There are 4 large connectors and 6 small connectors. The one I had that was loose was the second big one down.
 
JohhnyFoxtrot said:
I found this in another thread so I tried with a volt meter and the rail pressure sensor connector. One wire was ground the opposite side wire was at 4.97v and the middle wire was at 5.27v all was done wit hkey on truck off.

I also tried to hook up bottom pump only again. Took All ATS wires off and reconnected the stock harness to bottom pump and left rail sensor plugged in which is in top pump and started truck. It took alot longer to get to max pressure but still went and stayed there. Gonna try and get into dealer today on trailer.
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Good info...Thanks! I already bought another sensor from Snedge, but I may have to try this.
 
TCDiesel said:
As Soon as I have the harness and FCAs done you will be able to bypass all the aftermarket dual electronics.Also disconnect Top pump and run on the Bottom pump only. IMO the aftermarket duals were fooled into think the D-MAX pump was superior to the Cummins Pump.The Only advantage the D-Max Pump has is 2 bigger bushing (Shaft) some of the internals are completely the same,and most parts for the D-Max pump are 2/3 time the cost.
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Let me know, when you have this complete. So this will replace my aftermarket dual CP3 box? Will it work with a D-max CP3 on top? Thanks!
 
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