Pacbrake: 1 Headgasket: 0 UUHHH!!!! need advice

Cowboy_Customs

Cowboy_Customs

Rhinestone Cowboy
Joined
Jan 20, 2007
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So, my pacbrake engaged for no reason yesterday as I was at full boost, and 2000-2500 RPM and climbing a hill. Now I have a blown headgasket that was done 40K ish miles ago by the previous owner. Fortunatly I am not making oil, yet. OR pressurizing the coolant much, yet.

What is my best route here? I have some performance goals in mind. But I also tow. And play.
So my questions are these:
1) would a thicker headgasket benefit me to drop the compression a little bit? How thick?
2) what does it cost to ring the head? Where do I get the correct stuff for this? What are the specs to tell my machinest?
3) I am going to port and polish the head myself, any guide lines I need to follow? Anyone got pictures?
4) If I thicken up the HG what washers to I need to get the injectors back where they belong?

I have read quite bit about studs and rings, but have seen mixed reviews on ringing the head. What are the cons on this? Thanks guys!
 
I ran O-rings for years on my DD @ anywhere from 350-500HP never had a problem up to 45-50psi. Never could afford studs so I ran head bolts @ 90ft/lbs + 90* (later found out its equal to 120ish ft/lbs)

I did manage to blow an O ringed gasket this year but my truck is now strictly a puller and it happened because I pretty much dumped the clutch trying 2nd Hi trying to keep the R's up with a non-wastegated S465 @ 3500rpms. :doh

For a single charger (66mm n smaller) I would do O rings(usually $300) n head bolts($120 from Snedge) @ 140ft/lbs.
 
Thank you that is good to know! I feel better about that. Not that I want to cheap out n not studs, but just how much is too much for rings, and headBOLTs? I want to build a set of twins eventually. Nothing too crazy, just towing twins. Enough to cross the 1000 Ft.Lb. mark
 
Daily driver oring it, I have had mine oringed for 4+ seasons at 50+ psi.
 
If you go with O rings in your head I would say go with a .010 over gasket. If you go with anything thicker the rings wont seal aswell. Then all you have to do is get .010 thinner washers to get your injectors back in the original position. I done this on my puller and havent had any trouble, I have studs though, but Mr. Got Smoke is right also on using the Stock Head bolts aslong as they are torqued correctally. I think he used the Jeff Garmon Method. Takes a while to do but is very effective.

Lynn
 
Thanks guys! That is excellent info. Now where do I get the rings, and specs for my machine shop? I assume the washers are available from Cummins/Bosch?
 
Go 50, 75, 100 ft lbs in Cummins sequence. Then from 100 to 150 ft lbs you do it in 5 ft lb increments every 30 MINS! It is important to let the bolts cool between torque's. Also apply hi temp grease to the threads before installing the bolts initially.

That came directly from Jeff Garmon himself and has worked great on my pulling truck which see's 50psi+ every run.
 
Multiple torques is key on o-rings, you have to heat and smash them at least 5 or 6 times. letting the engine get up to temp before cutting it loose is another must.
 
Good deal, I did not know that. Damn, I got to get on this sooner then I thought, I need it for a 900-1000 mile trip in 3 weeks!
 
In that case I would retorque MWF after work the 1st week (driving to and from work would be a decent heat cycle provided you get up to normal operating temps) not going over 10lbs of boost for the first 2 retorques. Take it easy on the third (20lbs and less, no lugging) Then do a final hot retorque or two before you leave, you should be fine. This is about what I have done on my o-rings with a .020 over gasket and it holds 60+psi just make sure it is up to operating temps before you build more than 20psi. Do another retorque once you get back jsut to get a little extra smash.
 
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