Please enlighten me on rack plugs and 215 pumps

1stgensleeper

1stgensleeper

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Jul 18, 2012
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Before I begin this thread, yes, I did search for and answer but no, I didn't find what I was looking for.

I'm in the process of swapping a P-pump into my 1992 D250 (Build thread to come). I have an 887 215hp pump I plan on using for the swap and bought a Mack rack plug to instal on it. My question is: is there any advantage to doing this mod to a 215 pump with notched plungers?

I don't care about what it does to a 160, 175, or 180 pump. I want to know what effects it has on a 215. Does it do anything at all? Will the increase in rack travel cause timing to be further retarded rendering it a disadvantage? I've heard some people say that it's helped, some say it did nothing, I've heard people say that they've had 215 pumps built by well known and reputable shops and they installed the plug. I've heard a lot of things but want a definite answer.

It would be awesome if Seth, Weston, or someone else with a lot of P-pump knowledge could chime in here. Thanks guys.

Jared
 
your best bet is to PM one of those guys you want to comment (no sarcasm)
 
My 215 on my truck was seths personal pump off his truck that he sold me and it has a mack plug fwiw

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 
inline6power said:
My 215 on my truck was seths personal pump off his truck that he sold me and it has a mack plug fwiw

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Click to expand...

The 215 i just had him do has a mack rack plug in it as well.
 
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I'm not a pump master by any means but a rack cap in most pumps just makes other mods shine a little brighter. It's all about the total package. Parts, tuning etc.
 
moral of the story is the loss of the CC's of fuel from limiting rack with a stock plug will be more detrimental than the timing loss, add a bit of timing to account for the timing loss and call it a day.
 
My pump was maxed by Kevin at northeast and he installed a rack plug . I'm no expert but I would have to agree with the above comment . Full rack travel is what it is, timing can be compensated for IMHO .
 
Thanks for the response guys. How much timing do you suggest I run? I want it to make good power and do good on the strip but it's mainly a DD. I was initially thinking 20-22* but now what? 24*?

Mods are:

1992 Dodge D250
•Custom built Hx35/S475 twin turbos
•5x14 injectors edm'd to about 5x16, no edge filters, internal work done by Weston, set to 280bar
•Benched and balanced 887 p-pump with 4k governor springs, Weston 7mm 100cc dv's, Mack rack plug, racked barrels, no fuel plate
•Tork Tek 060hp overflow valve
•Maxspool 184/210 cam
•Maxspool pushrods
•24v tappets
•60# valve springs
•Titanium keepers and 10* locks
•Ported head done by Ryan Lenahan; fire ringed, decked,
magna-fluxed
•ARP 425 head studs
•Steed Speed exhaust manifold
•AirDog 165 gph lift pump
 
From what I hear, its about a 4 deg loss of timing after 17mm of rack travel. (Never played with a 215 pump myself)

If you are designing your fuel system for full rack travel, plan accordingly in the timing department.

Its the worst of both worlds, high timing down low with retarded timing up top. Anything above 24 deg is not too fun on the street IMO
 
i am at 15 now. bumped it to 24 and it just had a tad to much cold weather haze for my liking even though it wasnt bad. my pump was also VERY loud at higher timing. i ran it at 18 for almost 6 months and averaged 19.2 mpg with it set at 300cc. only reason i went to 15 is because i like a quiet pump lol. milieage is still at 19mpg even with the lower timing so i may just keep it at 15. although it ran best at 24. spooled quicker.
 
Hey inline6power, was your truck good on the street at 24* besides the slight haze when it was cold?
 
So I'm assuming everyone that posted in this thread has a 12mm 215 pump right?
 
DieselheaD said:
So I'm assuming everyone that posted in this thread has a 12mm 215 pump right?
Click to expand...

not me ;-)

1stgensleeper said:
Hey inline6power, was your truck good on the street at 24* besides the slight haze when it was cold?
Click to expand...

Honestly, I think if you are tuning for DDing, I would get the tuning where you are happy with it for DDing. I run 21deg on my 180hp 12mm pump and get a slight haze when cold. I might go a little more, but 90% of the time, your timing will be the same as mine.

I think you should either do your tuning at 24-26deg if you want it to be slightly less streetable but not that bad, or around 20-21deg if you want it fun but still completely DD-able
 
Thats why I'm asking.. If its barrels and plungers have been changed you can throw all the timing retarding myths @ full rack on a 215 out the window.
 
1stgensleeper said:
Hey inline6power, was your truck good on the street at 24* besides the slight haze when it was cold?
Click to expand...

at 24 it ran great. i am going more and more towards a driver than a performance rig lol. if i could run it at 24 and not have the haze when cold i would be all over it. but now that i am getting older i am more worried about how the truck rides and my mpg lol. but the truck did pull the hardest with it at 24. its pretty easy for me with my adjustable pump gear to switch the timing in 20 minutes. i am just getting more and more into the small things that bug me lol. it wasnt a crazy ammount of haze or anything at all but it did have a haze when cold. ONLY cold though. i am more worried about a quiet engine and no haze in the mornign. i want something i can jump in and take to the mountains and go hunting and not have to worry about cold temps. that being said, i still put my pump at 575cc of fuel for a so called fun weekend lol. all in all, i really think 18-21 degrees is perfect for a daily driver. if it were a weekend truck i would say go to 24-26 but to each his own.
 
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