Popped another headgasket

Lostnwalmart

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Jul 19, 2006
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well noticed an oil leak under the truck today and after some searching i found the source, rear of the engine at the wonderful place where the head and gasket meet this head is studded oringed and has 5 re tourqes on it...... time to get the high alloy studs i guess......
 
Thats a bummer bud! I feel your pain, I still haven't put mine back together:bang
 
haha well i need to get from wichita ks to grand junction in a week so i can start my new job soooo i kinda need to get mine fixed asap.
 
Check the deck and the head before you throw it back together. You should have been good to go with that many cranks. Somethins' fishy.
 
Yea, I'd get it running again cliff...then when you get to grand junction...get your head decked and make sure everything is kosher.
 
what are your drive pressures like?? Excessive drive/cylinder pressure will pop a gasket no matter what you have done.
 
im going to have to just throw it back together to get to grand junction but since ill be working at cummins a new gasket shouldnt be that hard to come by. i dont know the protusion on the orings but i can find out i jsut need to rent a cheyy picker tomorrow and lift it out, ill get a gasket from the cummins in town then throw it all back together, studs can be reused yes? and im shure the cylinder pressure was very very high considering that turbos max efficeny range was 50 psi and i was around 55, (i didnt touch the waste gate)
 
hmmm well these are the regular arp's ive just hear go to 135 ftlbs, and after further inspection the old gasket dosent have an indention from the oring maybe it wasent tight enough?
 
Cliff - make sure to do enough heat cycles and after the first retorque break the loose one at the time and remoly and pull them on down. I'm pushing this 6 speed truck I just finished to 72lbs on a single with only 2 retorques knock on wood. Be very careful and meticulous when putting it back together - block and head need to be very very clean. A good scrub down with WD and scotch brite followed by an ether washing does the trick. I use laquer thinner after that to make sure everything is oil free. I probably spend way to much time when doing a head but I don't want to have to do it twice that's for sure. Hope that helps a little. Good luck getting her 'sinched' back down.
 
TORQUE HEADSTUDS TO 140!!!!

initial torque-all to 90, again to 110, again to 125. set valves.

second torque, start truck and run until 140* shut off and retorque to 135. adjust valves.

3rd torque. start and drive until t-stat pops, retorque to 140 (warm) set valves.

4th torque. drive for 1 week, no more than 15psi boost. Re-torque to 140. adjust valves (warm)

do following after 1 month, then every 6 months after. may be soon depending on if you compete with the truck.

Done this way, proven. be percise when torqueing. thats a long piece of iron that gets very hot!!!

PS. make sure to break the nuts loose to retorque.
 
get your tq wrench calibrated. 126 is about the limit for strength on the regular arp's
 
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