Pre load for pulling?

Sorry, I re read my post and it came across unclear. I'm not running a 4 link, I am running singles but I have them mounted to the top of the axle instead of the bottom. I noticed a lot of guys getting out of the hole or at the end of a pull were flexing their bars, putting them on top of the axle prevents ANY rotation of the rearend.
 
Plus this setup doesnt take away from ground clearance so I can still have fun offroad.
 
If you make a set that goes from the bottom of the rear axle to just infront of the back edge of the doors at about a 20-25* angle, I garantee you will notice a big difference on how the truck hooks up on the pulling track, and the dragstrip.
 
being fastend on top i dont see stoping all of the axle wrap. When the springs give way, the bottom of the axle moves closer to the front side of the fender well. On top, when this happens, i see the axle still being able to have enough force to pivot on the bolt and wrap the springs up. It wont be able to move forward but it could still wrap. Now throw a pinion snubber on top of the center chunk and i will agree with you.

On bottom, the spring is directly pushing against the bars from its natural motion. I think a pinion snubber could still be benificial here to, but i have not had on for 3 years of pulling and not one single wrap issue or even breakage.

Tim
 
I've only had 2 bounce issues on the pulling track and that was at Scheid last year in the qualifiying round for the first 40ft or so and at a local pull last year on a spongy and slick track on the starting line trying to hookup. I think my problem at Scheids was the dumb 1" travel rule.
 
Mounted on top has been great, ultimtely that isn't the total solution. T bars in general aren't the total solution, spring clamps and adjustable bump stops play a part in it too.

they work great, they never come off the truck, lighter weight so I can hang more out front,... all and all I love them.
 
kino_fab said:
If you make a set that goes from the bottom of the rear axle to just infront of the back edge of the doors at about a 20-25* angle, I garantee you will notice a big difference on how the truck hooks up on the pulling track, and the dragstrip.
Click to expand...

That's also a good way to destroy your frame sledpulling, that works for drag racing but sled pulling your looking for trouble. Short bars really put alot of stress on your frame during pulling.
 
All truck are going to bounce a certain amount even if you dont know its doing it. Look at the promods at schieds, They bounced the carap out of there trucks with solid suspensions. Since there was no suspension to give, the tires were the give point and coming unhooked. The 1inch rule is dumb to me.This just gives room for **** to break. When you leave the line, the sled squats you down and hits the stops but if even for a second the tires loose traction, the rear end will start to lift and then when the tires rehook, it will slam the stops and get worse from there. I think it should either be solid or nothing.
 
kino_fab said:
It can cause hopping trying to pull the bars in (shortening). I also have a set of 3rd arms from a tractor that connect from the same rearend brackets to the frame just infront of the hitch. They help out alot on how it hooks, but I can't run them with a 1" travel rule.
Click to expand...

Do you have any pics of this set-up? This sounds interesting and the first I've heard of it. Maybe somthing to look into
 
Mine are 72 inches long. They go about 4 inches after the frame boxes which is about right between the doors. They are made from 2x4 3/8 box steel and weight like a ton apiece. The mounts are 1/2 thick plate if i remember correct.
 
Here are some pics.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00365.JPG
    DSC00365.JPG
    94.2 KB · Views: 39
  • DSC00268.JPG
    DSC00268.JPG
    106.2 KB · Views: 41
  • DSC00269.JPG
    DSC00269.JPG
    49.6 KB · Views: 41
z79outlaw said:
Do you have any pics of this set-up? This sounds interesting and the first I've heard of it. Maybe somthing to look into
Click to expand...

alot of gas4wd have these I built some 3ys ago mainly to adjust hitch height and for support
 
Click "Post Reply" then go towards the bottom of the screen, click "Manage Attachents" Click "Browse" to find your files then click "Upload" Then post your message.

Otherwise email them to rockymtnkng@yahoo.com I'll post them for you.
 
z79outlaw said:
That's also a good way to destroy your frame sledpulling, that works for drag racing but sled pulling your looking for trouble. Short bars really put alot of stress on your frame during pulling.
Click to expand...

Short bars? who said anything about short bars? Just in front of the back edge of the front doors is not short at all. and the mounts are welded to the boxed area of the frame.


As for pics this is the closets one I got. Its not of my truck, but of Fireman450's truck. our setups are similar.

100_0937.jpg

100_0938.jpg

100_0939.jpg

FrameSetup.jpg
 
Here is what I got
 

Attachments

  • 2009-06-18%2006.10.14[1].jpg
    2009-06-18%2006.10.14[1].jpg
    51.9 KB · Views: 16
  • 2009-06-18%2006.10.26[1].jpg
    2009-06-18%2006.10.26[1].jpg
    58.9 KB · Views: 9
Again, Being a diesel noob but having a lot of suspension experience the reason for running long bars is to minimize hub rotation throughout the travel of the suspension. If you look at where my attachment points are they are completely parallel to the ground. This provides for extension and compression of the suspension with minimal hub rotation. Short bars are going to be fine as long as they have good geometry. Running a short bar with an extreme and is bad because you will get horrible hub rotation during suspension travel and it wil ride like poo.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top