Price to Balance?

Got Milk?

One hook at a time
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
952
I'm going to get my rotating assembly balanced this winter, and was wondering what it normally costs to have this done? I got a quote for $205 to have it done. Its this a good price?
 
No. Just the rotating assy. You can have it balanced with the clutch on if you wish.
 
You get what you pay for... $300 is usally a good ballence job on the crank, it "should" be ballanced as close to zero as you can get it, we normally get it to within 4-5 tenths of a gram.

Then you should consider ballanced rods, pins and pistons/rings sets if you want the best, that's normally a few hundred more.

Ballance is the entire life of the engine, couple grams here and there could cost you HP and reliability. And there so smooth/quiet you dont know there running...
 
Give the guy every thing that spins off crank, from balancer to clutch, it all becomes important especially with rpm
 
Give the guy every thing that spins off crank, from balancer to clutch, it all becomes important especially with rpm

You dont need any of that, these are internally ballanced engines...

trying to ballance with the ballencer and clutch will creat a imballance.
 
Straight sixes are inherently balanced - normally, static balancing is more than sufficient... and matching all the piston/rod weights within a gram is more than enough for high RPM (bobweight for each hole is ~3600g).

Dynamic balancing isn't required, but it's good SOP when the crank is already in our machine shop (especially since inlines are pretty ea$y to zero out).

Either way, there'll be far more oil weight clinging to an unprepped reciprocating assembly than any dry imbalance... of course, that's why we knife-edge, profile & polish. ;)
 
I have a crank at Moldex, they are Magnafluxing, checking for
straightness, bullnose knife edge, balancing. With shipping 135 pds
$500.
 
You get what you pay for... $300 is usally a good ballence job on the crank, it "should" be ballanced as close to zero as you can get it, we normally get it to within 4-5 tenths of a gram.

Then you should consider ballanced rods, pins and pistons/rings sets if you want the best, that's normally a few hundred more.

Ballance is the entire life of the engine, couple grams here and there could cost you HP and reliability. And there so smooth/quiet you dont know there running...

So if we want the best, who would we send our stuff too? We are looking to spin some serious rpms on our truck to compete with some of the bigger guys that only run 5k around here.
 
Give the guy every thing that spins off crank, from balancer to clutch, it all becomes important especially with rpm

I was found the same while searching here on the subject, and the shop I called quoted me $150-200 and said he needed all of that as well.

You dont need any of that, these are internally ballanced engines...

trying to ballance with the ballencer and clutch will creat a imballance.

This just goes against everything I've found searching here? :what: :bang
 
I have been told that it's not an issue if your running 5k and under, it should be done on anything over 5k tho. But I was just thinking while the motor is out, it might be a good thing to have done.
 
I was found the same while searching here on the subject, and the shop I called quoted me $150-200 and said he needed all of that as well.



This just goes against everything I've found searching here? :what: :bang

last time i had an engine done i gave him flywheel and pressure plate, and everything else... sure enough it it was needed. and it came back indexed for installation into car.
its my brothers car that spins 9k and no problems yet,
 
last time i had an engine done i gave him flywheel and pressure plate, and everything else... sure enough it it was needed. and it came back indexed for installation into car.
its my brothers car that spins 9k and no problems yet,

external ballanced engines need the ballencer and the flywheel. internal ballenced engines do not.
 
its a mitsu 4g63, internally balanced. he took care of the other parts as part of the deal. you know i don't want a bit of weight being off at 8k plus rpm and break the snout off the crank or kill the rear main,
All I am saying is if you have it out, give it all to the guy and let him freaking balance it.
 
Top