profab dropbox/reverser

joefarmer said:
Wow.
FORD9700.jpg
Click to expand...

X2


Man that is way sexier than the my clutch!
 
How do they work though? The weights on the fingers move the finger... towards the outside? rearward? Under the pressure plate? I are confused.
 
joefarmer said:
How do they work though? The weights on the fingers move the finger... towards the outside? rearward? Under the pressure plate? I are confused.
Click to expand...
The fingers are moved rearward with increased rpm after the stall springs (the little springs with nuts on the hat) compress enough to start the vehicle moving.
There is no springs on the "presure plate" the fingers and weights do all the clamping load.
The CrowerGlide style of clutch is the easiest to tune and use for high power useage,They are very easy to tune once you understand how they work.
 
Where can I find prices on the SCS and Profab stuff? Also, who makes a good cost effective Rockwell F-106 housing and guts?

-Tom
 
Distributor said:
The fingers are moved rearward with increased rpm after the stall springs (the little springs with nuts on the hat) compress enough to start the vehicle moving.
There is no springs on the "presure plate" the fingers and weights do all the clamping load.
The CrowerGlide style of clutch is the easiest to tune and use for high power useage,They are very easy to tune once you understand how they work.
Click to expand...

Excuse my ingnorance in high-perf clutches:bang but is this style what all the tractor guys refer to as there slipper clutch? is there an actual clutch pedal with them or is it basically just put it in gear (reverser) and start to rev'er up and at say 3000rpm it starts to lock up.

BBD- Is yours this style or would it be more along the lines of a weighted pressure place style clutch like you would have ran in the old truck?

We should be starting another thread just on high preformance clutches! this is very interesting

RyanB
 
Yea this is what we call a slipper clutch.
You can run them either with or without a pedal, But with a pedel is alot easier to drive, Especially when trying to baby it out of the hole.
 
okay, thats what I thought...now can you explain the differences from the two...whats the one like that you use the pedal with? I would asume that they are two different styles of slippers.

What are most of the mod drivers running for clutches...style that is.

RyanB
 
Mine is like this one. I have a pedal but only use it when leaving the line other wise as you mentioned bring the rpm's up till she clamps down and begins moving.

BBD
 
Okay, I am starting to get this now! My only other question is how does it work when you go to take off...if its engaging at a set RPM I would think it will dissengage at that same rpm right? How are you able to pull a diesel with it and build boost? again...sorry for my ignorance. I am used to my Dual Disk (weighted pressure plate style) where I rev it up, try to hold it down as it starts to push me off the pedal and at the same time building boost and enough RPM...I find the rpm then drops almost 300-400rpm but could be from our boat anchor of a sled we have up here too!

RyanB
 
Distributor said:
The fingers are moved rearward with increased rpm after the stall springs (the little springs with nuts on the hat) compress enough to start the vehicle moving.
There is no springs on the "presure plate" the fingers and weights do all the clamping load.
The CrowerGlide style of clutch is the easiest to tune and use for high power useage,They are very easy to tune once you understand how they work.
Click to expand...
THanks... I was trying think of it in drag racing terms. Say you had a crower in a turbo'ed vehicle that lit the turbo at ~2200 rpm. Could you tune the crower so you could stay on the line at 2400rpm, with 10psi of boost, the clutch pedal released and just hold it back with the foot brake? Would that be a function of the stall springs or the weights? Thanks!
 
Maybe ask Keating? I think he had some sort of slipper clutch, maybe a Crower type in his ride from last year. I would say the weights would be adding clamping force causing a load on the line, I guess at that point it would be a delicate balance of throttle and lots of foot brake to maintain what rpm and boost you want for launching.

-Tom
 
Yea you can stage and increase rpm and hold the brakes, You just fine tune the clutch by the springs, or by adding or removing some weights.Once you are close you can also fine tune by how many weights are in what hole of the fingers.
By adjusting the stall springs you are counter acting the forces of the weights.
 
Thanks. Both are answers I needed to know. A Crower sounds much easier to tune than sending a torque converter off to some unnamed Canadian company for $1200 and possibly getting it right the 5th time.
 
So Profab vs. SCS??? Pro's and Con's of both??? Is the "zero drag" reverser from SCS better than the Profab? Or just a marketing tool used by SCS because I could'nt think of any reason why the Profab would have any more parasitic drag???

-Tom
 
All I'll say is talk to both.
It was alluded to in an earlier post that Pro-Fab had a few failures,I asked the question of what caused them to fail, But no response. So I'll post what happened.
Some other driveline(front or rearend) part had a catastrophic failure first and caused the drop box to fail.
 
And how about the reversers? Are they comparable as far as internal design?

-Tom
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top