Pulling engine and have a question

If your worried about the bad weld and still want to have the piece in there post cut, take the 4 bolts out and knock it to one side as far as you can then cut it. You can hide the weld once you put it back in and slide it back.
 
Both times on mine, we just lifted the cab and place rubber bumpers (3" or so) under the cab and sat it back down...

Then used a port-a-power to spread the front and get the cross memeber out WithOUT cutting it...

Seems to work fine this was.....pulled complete motor and puta a complete motor back in this way..
 
Separate block and head. Set block in, then set head on, no cutting or cab lifting....$.02
 
roachie said:
Pay attention here:

Do not leave the lower cross member out.
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LOLLOL


3rd gens must be real tight.. I thought pulling my 2nd gen motor complete was tight enough. And I definitely want it complete going back in..
 
3rd gens are a uni-body on frame design, the lower tie bar is part of the truck's structure. Removing it allows the aprons to be very flimsy.

More or less, if its a dedicated puller your fine. Drag or street truck, put it in. Without it, the front of the truck will fold up like tin foil. It is a needed part.

This is not something to debate over.

Mopar service says to unbolt it and spread the rails apart.
 
Bottle jack and some lumber works great when spreading the frame apart to pull the tranny.
 
cutting the frame

morkable said:
Yeah I have the head off on this one,, but when I put back the other engine it is going to be complete. I have seen it done both ways,, I am kinda liking cutting the cross piece and welding it back together when i am done,, but I am not sure if that is a bad thing or not
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When selling the vehicle it will have a marked title "frame altered". There goes your resale value. Unless of course you sell it to a blind man.
 
Well the good thing about that is that this truck is probably never going to be a DD again.. LOL,,, roll cage alone will probably take care of that
 
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