pulling hitch, what to do?

N

number9t

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Jun 19, 2007
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when i get back from iraq, i'm going to try my first truck pull. What i need help with is the best design for a hitch. Rules are:

"The hitch must be a receiver style hitch attached to the frame; reinforcements are permitted. Trick hitches are prohibited. The hooking point must be the rear-most point on the vehicle and must be rearward of the stock location of the tailgate. The hitch must be horizontal to the ground and stationary in all directions. Bumpers may be notched or removed. The hitch's height from the ground may not exceed 26 inches. The hooking point must have a minimum 3.00 inch inside diameter opening for the sled hook. The hooking point will be measured to the center of the clevis loop"

I was wondering about the height for the hitch. should it be above or below the axle? i would think that you would want it above the axle to keep more of the weight on the truck then on front of the sled. would it also be good to drop a tire size to drop the height of the axle, or should i go the other way. i'm running 285's right now. any help from you guys would be great, thanks
Andy:Cheer:
 
Some rules also include distance from rear axle to hooking point not to exceed 44". For example my dodge is/was 54". Ferther in you can move it is an advantage.
 
what about height? i imagine that the height has an effect on leverage. would i be correct in assuming that i would want it below the axle to push the front end down. Or would it be better to keep it high to put more of the sled weight on the truck???
 
you'll want the hitch as high as they will let you go. Lower hitch = less traction...
 
Most stock classes you need to have a reese hitch in a "mostly" stock location then you want the hooking point normally a pindle at its highest allowed height most rules say 26". The higher the hooking point the more lift you will have on the front of the sled.
 
Has anyone had problems with bending the 2X2 solid that slides into your reciver? My first hich I used looked like a 7in drop but I turned the flat on its side so the clevis was flat I bent it 2 itmes but it was 2x2x1/4 wall. My new hitch is solid and it is bending right at the end of the gussets any ideas?
 
I'm almost a total newB at pulling. A couple years back (in Gardnerville, NV) I just used a 2" ball. Is that still legal, or do I need to use a pindle now? And where exactly is the 26" measured from? Top of ball, or pindle ring, or what? Thank in advance guys.
 
NVJAY775 said:
I'm almost a total newB at pulling. A couple years back (in Gardnerville, NV) I just used a 2" ball. Is that still legal, or do I need to use a pindle now? And where exactly is the 26" measured from? Top of ball, or pindle ring, or what? Thank in advance guys.
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Its measured at the point where the hook will rest. Or at the bottom of the hole of the pindle.
 
You guys want lunette rings for pulling, NOT pintle hooks. The hitch needs to be horizontal and solid mounted in all directions. So a quick trip to your local trailer place, steel yard and welder you have a hitch for less than $100.

-Tom
 
A couple of Newbie questions here . . .

1) Just to confirm, 26" from the ground to the bottom of the Lunette ring is max height?

2) My hitch receiver on my truck is exactly 18" from the ground to the center of the opening. So, I should reverse a solid drop shank and try and get the Lunette ring up another 8 inches for best results??? Will that put to much leverage on my receiver? If I raised it 8 inches, the lunette ring will be 2 inches above the top of the bumper. Any problem there?

3) Lunette ring opening must be 3"?

4) Any restrictions on welding the height adjustment plate to the shank?

Thanks in advance!
 
BilletGarage said:
A couple of Newbie questions here . . .

1) Just to confirm, 26" from the ground to the bottom of the Lunette ring is max height?

2) My hitch receiver on my truck is exactly 18" from the ground to the center of the opening. So, I should reverse a solid drop shank and try and get the Lunette ring up another 8 inches for best results??? Will that put to much leverage on my receiver? If I raised it 8 inches, the lunette ring will be 2 inches above the top of the bumper. Any problem there?

3) Lunette ring opening must be 3"?

4) Any restrictions on welding the height adjustment plate to the shank?

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

2.5" will work for the lunette opening.
 
I missed the pulls tonight. They were 5 minutes from my house. I was working on an irrigation leak. Gay I say! The pulls were in Gardnerville, Nv. I hope some pics get up. Maybe a vid or 2.
 
JW3 said:
2.5" will work for the lunette opening.
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2.5" opening will work? That's good to know. Everything I've read so far has said 3" but I'd rather go 2.5" anyway . . . Thanks for the information!
 
BilletGarage said:
2.5" opening will work? That's good to know. Everything I've read so far has said 3" but I'd rather go 2.5" anyway . . . Thanks for the information!
Click to expand...

You need to find the rules for the location you want to pull. Some will tell you a minimum opening size. Most are 3" or more while others won't say anything.

As for you needing 8" above your receiver opening to make hitch height. Yes, that will put a LOT of twisting force on your hitch AND receiver. Might think about some lift blocks in the rear or something. I don't see a stock receiver liking that for long.


C-ya
 
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