Question for you guys on big water systems

SmokinCAT said:
Would the nozzle holders with the built in check valves serve the same purpose?
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Depends on what style pump your planning to run.. Gear driven, electric? Electric motor driven you could get away without a valve inline and just use a hobbs switch but you will have a delay from time your hobbs sends signal to the time the pump actually gets pressure up to the nozzles.. Whereas if you run the simpson valve or similar mounted closer to then nozzles you have constant water flow recirculating until desired pressure closes the diaphram and water goes to the nozzles.
 
CREED1 said:
Depends on what style pump your planning to run.. Gear driven, electric? Electric motor driven you could get away without a valve inline and just use a hobbs switch but you will have a delay from time your hobbs sends signal to the time the pump actually gets pressure up to the nozzles.. Whereas if you run the simpson valve or similar mounted closer to then nozzles you have constant water flow recirculating until desired pressure closes the diaphram and water goes to the nozzles.
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A 12v dc can go from 0 pressure to max system pressure very quickly. Also can be setup progressively with laptop based tuning to come on with boost, temp, time, etc. Set all the ramp rates to run a bigger nozzle overall without flooding the engine down low. And double the pressure as conventional pro systems.
 
CREED1 said:
Depends on what style pump your planning to run.. Gear driven, electric? Electric motor driven you could get away without a valve inline and just use a hobbs switch but you will have a delay from time your hobbs sends signal to the time the pump actually gets pressure up to the nozzles.. Whereas if you run the simpson valve or similar mounted closer to then nozzles you have constant water flow recirculating until desired pressure closes the diaphram and water goes to the nozzles.
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Will be electric pump, being a puller I have a little more time to spare for it to come in.

Thank you for your help.
 
VMAX said:
Yes.... My comment refers to you saying your using your same old water system in a previous post.
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Its the same exact pump turning relatively the same rpm. Just using different sources to drive it.
 
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Is it best to but the nozzle facing towards the air flow or away from?
 
SmokinCAT said:
Is it best to but the nozzle facing towards the air flow or away from?
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There is less pooling when the nozzle is going with airflow. If your placement is perpendicular a wide spray pattern is helpful.
 
AHall said:
There is less pooling when the nozzle is going with airflow. If your placement is perpendicular a wide spray pattern is helpful.
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I will have to do some looking, they will be placed after the aftercooler but I cant recall how much room I have before the entry into the head.
 
97rada said:
If done properly it should add power. Or you would think it should add power
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I'm looking at it for temperature control, getting exhaust temps to a safe range to sustain a long pull will be the best scenario for me.
 
97rada said:
If done properly it should add power. Or you would think it should add power
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In gasoline engines it makes it possible to use higher boost and timing. In diesels it makes it possible to add more fuel without melting so yes it kind of adds power but it is not from the water itself. If there is not a problem with temperatures then it only robs power.
 
JerrodGlover said:
21 is the size of the orifice in this case .21 You can order them in any size you want from http://www.goodvibesracing.com/Nozzle_Jets.htm at 600 lbs you will inject the right number in cc's of water over 15 seconds the left number is the size of the orifice.
13-90
14-100
16-110
18-130
20-180
22-195
24-210
26-300
28-300
30-380
32-390
34-560
36-560
38-690
40-740
42-750
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How did you figure the flow rates, my system will only be three nozzles on a 855CID engine, I'm gonna guess I need to start fairly high, obviously fueling will make a difference but trying to get a place to start as engine isn't finished yet.
 
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