re-torque

OrangeNV

OrangeNV

BISH please
Joined
Apr 16, 2010
Messages
5,043
i know i know, this has been gone over a hundred times. i cant find any of the threads were it was being discussed

i will have my engine bare and that will be the perfect time for a retorque on my head studs

who loosens each one, adds lube then torques them back down, or do you just check them at 135lbs?

i have regular arp studs
 
OrangeNV said:
i know i know, this has been gone over a hundred times. i cant find any of the threads were it was being discussed

i will have my engine bare and that will be the perfect time for a retorque on my head studs

who loosens each one, adds lube then torques them back down, or do you just check them at 135lbs?

i have regular arp studs
Click to expand...

I loosen, reaply lube, and then torque them back down. One at a time. I also make sure the nut is still moving when it reaches the torque. If you start pulling on the wrench and it "clicks" before the nut moves. I back the nut off and start again. I'm probably not being very clear on this...

The breakaway torque will be much higher then what you torqued it to orginally, so just checking them at 135 doesn't really do much.

Paul
 
paulb said:
I loosen, reaply lube, and then torque them back down. One at a time. I also make sure the nut is still moving when it reaches the torque. If you start pulling on the wrench and it "clicks" before the nut moves. I back the nut off and start again. I'm probably not being very clear on this...

The breakaway torque will be much higher then what you torqued it to orginally, so just checking them at 135 doesn't really do much.

Paul
Click to expand...


Your being clear, basically make sure your in a nice even pull when the wrench clicks. Static torque and dynamic torque values are different(at least in the automated assembly world that were some of the terms used)
 
What would the torque value be if you were to pull stock bolts one at a time, apply lube, then re-torque?
 
paulb said:
I loosen, reaply lube, and then torque them back down. One at a time. I also make sure the nut is still moving when it reaches the torque. If you start pulling on the wrench and it "clicks" before the nut moves. I back the nut off and start again. I'm probably not being very clear on this...

The breakaway torque will be much higher then what you torqued it to orginally, so just checking them at 135 doesn't really do much.

Paul
Click to expand...

This.
 
4x4dually said:
What would the torque value be if you were to pull stock bolts one at a time, apply lube, then re-torque?
Click to expand...

Im curious about this as well. I've heard of people doing this with stock head bolts and was wondering what the tq spec would be and if this would be beneficial?

Thanks for your time,
DK
 
I'm only asking becuase I had a dose of oil in my coolant two weeks ago. I took the oil cooler off and pressure tested it and put new gaskets on it. The oil seems to be getting less and less now....but I really don't see how it could have got around my gaskets that I replaced. They all looked great. I'm now wondering if I didn't try to lift the head a tad and let some through on a WOT run to lose a jackass riding my rear bumper one morning. I want to check the bolts but not break them. Maybe I should buy new stock bolts and just put new ones in one at a time? I DON'T want to break one. I'm only makine 450hp so it isn't like I make a butt load of power anyway. Just trying to be cautious.

P.S.

Big Blue24 said:
Probably somewhere between looser than loose and "oh crap" I broke a bolt.
Click to expand...

That was phruckin' helpful. :thankyou2: :D
 
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Already tapped my holes

And hey dually that oil takes forever to clean out of the system, I still have a spec pop up now and then from a year ago
 
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