Replacing head gaskets???

Cross hatch is still visible in 5 cylinders. The 3 questionable cylinders have a 1" wide wear mark on the thrust side. Decided to fix it right. Pulling the motor today. Heads are getting hot tanked, pressure tested, resurfaced. Block will get tanked, cylinders honed as required, new cam bearings installed. Crank is getting degreased, polished. depending on how the pistons look may or may not replace. Rings will be new.
 
I will need some advice with piston/cam shaft options. Go OEM or do I have other reliable options. Still up in the air in changing out the injectors, to be a complete fresh build. Lets hope I don't find any tweaked rods from injectors hanging up. If thats even possible.
 
In regard to pistons, I have used the Mahle brand with a .010 reduced
compression height to allow for the maching of the heads/block. MAKE SURE
your machine shop has a CBN cutter to surface your heads/block. This cannot be done with the old broach style cutters or it will never seal up.!
 
I know nothing about the machine trade. What is the differance between a CBN cutter or the old style? Motors almost down to the bear bones on the engine stand.
 
Bringing up this old thread. Machine shop finnally had a look at the block & heads. Cylinders can be cleaned up easily. Heads are in rough shape. Will nee to replace. Do i buy new from Ford? Quoted $1800.00 complete. Or is there remanufactured available in Canada? Thanku in advance.
 
when doing studs do you have to remove the cab completely or just jack it up a bit were getting ready to do some on my buddies 6.0 and i have no experience with the fords im a cummins guy ........

Sorry didnt mean to hi jack your thread
 
SS predator said:
Bringing up this old thread. Machine shop finnally had a look at the block & heads. Cylinders can be cleaned up easily. Heads are in rough shape. Will nee to replace. Do i buy new from Ford? Quoted $1800.00 complete. Or is there remanufactured available in Canada? Thanku in advance.
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There was a place in Edmonton that I bought a set of '06 heads, complete, for $475 for the set. I had to have them gone through, but I still got a set of heads that weren't cracked.
Since my '03 heads were cracked so bad, I had the shop install hardened seats in all the exhaust seats. Cost was about the same as Ford remand, but I had a multi angle valve job, back cut all the valves, hardened seats installed, and resurfaced.
 
Rollincole said:
when doing studs do you have to remove the cab completely or just jack it up a bit were getting ready to do some on my buddies 6.0 and i have no experience with the fords im a cummins guy ........

Sorry didnt mean to hi jack your thread
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If you are installing studs with the cab on...I think you need to install them one at a time because if you put all the studs in, and try to slide the head on overtop, it will not go, as there is no room.

And I mean...THERE IS NO ROOM.

If you have the time to pull the cab, or pull the engine out, do it that way, cuz you will swear you will NEVER work on that, or any 6.0L ever again.
 
I'd be asking.. what makes the heads not serviceable?? Not saying your machine shop guy isn't good, but I would get a second opinion. It might be cheaper for you to send them out here in the states to get fixed? We usually pin cracks in the cylinder head. Haven't seen too many that aren't worth fixing..unless they're just cheaper to buy new, which in this case..doesn't sound like they are.
 
Extended Power said:
If you are installing studs with the cab on...I think you need to install them one at a time because if you put all the studs in, and try to slide the head on overtop, it will not go, as there is no room.

And I mean...THERE IS NO ROOM.

If you have the time to pull the cab, or pull the engine out, do it that way, cuz you will swear you will NEVER work on that, or any 6.0L ever again.
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so is it possible to do it without even pulling the cab at all ???
 
Rollincole said:
so is it possible to do it without even pulling the cab at all ???
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yes it is possible to do it with out pulling the cab or moving it at all and not pulling the engine. you just have to slide the back studs into the the head as you are setting in the heads. you cannot put the back studs in after. also if you are using factory gaskets. a trick i use and find it works is i split the five piece gasket and hi-tack in between each layer. the back studs are a pain to tighten but if you hav a shallow torque wrench you can do it.

good luck the first time is the hardest.
 
ok good deal and about how long does it take to do just the turbo ???? i was looking at under the hood last night and man am i glad i built a dodge lol
 
Rollincole said:
ok good deal and about how long does it take to do just the turbo ???? i was looking at under the hood last night and man am i glad i built a dodge lol
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i have done it a few times but without rushing you should be able to have it out and in in 3 hours
 
The back stud on the drivers side will hit the firewall if you leave the cab on. The easiest way is to take the cab off, it can be off in less than an hour with someone who knows what they're doing. If you leave the cab on you will have to dent the firewall on the drivers side to get the stock bolt out and possibly the new stud in. It can be done though, I've seen it first hand.

Also snap-on makes a "tool" that is essentially an extension piece to make it easier to torque the studs easier that are harder to reach.

For doing studs in a 6.0 you can pull the motor out the front, or leave the motor in, with the cab on, but you'll need to dent the firewall to do so, or just remove the cab. I just listed the options in order from hardest to easiest.
 
mdub707 said:
The back stud on the drivers side will hit the firewall if you leave the cab on. The easiest way is to take the cab off, it can be off in less than an hour with someone who knows what they're doing. If you leave the cab on you will have to dent the firewall on the drivers side to get the stock bolt out and possibly the new stud in. It can be done though, I've seen it first hand.

Also snap-on makes a "tool" that is essentially an extension piece to make it easier to torque the studs easier that are harder to reach.

For doing studs in a 6.0 you can pull the motor out the front, or leave the motor in, with the cab on, but you'll need to dent the firewall to do so, or just remove the cab. I just listed the options in order from hardest to easiest.
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I've done cab on a few times and have not needed to dent the firewall.
 
After you do it a couple of times...you just know where the bolts are, and do it without even looking at it. (Picture it in your mind)
 
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