Specific tech questions for the p-pump swap to be answered in here...

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getblown5.9

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Any specific questions can be asked in here for help during your swap, please don't fill this with all the basics like "what is needed to swap? and why should I swap?" I want to keep this as a tech thread for those who have done the swap to help those in the process.



Is the gasket for the timing cover the same for a 24v as a 12v? If not which one is needed, the 12v one to fit the timing case or the 24v gasket for the block?

where does the p-pump support bracket bolt to? same as on a 24v?

where will I splice the wiring for the shut off solenoid into the 24v wiring harness? I want it to work and start with the key and shut off like normal also.
 
Not to change the topic from the questions you asked TJ, but I'm interested in making sure the grid heater works properly.

Any thoughts?
 
I dunno, i took mine off tonight and threw them in the trash, wont be needing them with the new set-up
 
getblown5.9 said:
Is the gasket for the timing cover the same for a 24v as a 12v? If not which one is needed, the 12v one to fit the timing case or the 24v gasket for the block?

where does the p-pump support bracket bolt to? same as on a 24v?

where will I splice the wiring for the shut off solenoid into the 24v wiring harness? I want it to work and start with the key and shut off like normal also.
Click to expand...


support bracket mounts to the same two holes on the block. The bracket is different though.

For the wiring, you need a ground wire, 12V with key on (I tied into my FASS wiring circuit which runs when the key is on), and 12V in the start position (I used the small stud on the bottom of the starter and fed it to a Ford starting solenoid I had laying around. So when I turn the key to start, the new solenoid actuates and feeds 12V thru a heavier gauge wire to the fuel solenoid.
 
I found the answer to my own question so I'll post it up here if anyone else is pondering the same thing I am/was.
The ECM takes readings predominantly from the IAT sensor to determine if it needs to cycle the grid heater. So if that sensor is left in the head and the ECM is left in the truck, there should be no issues.
 
There is no reason why the grid heater wouldn't work if you leave the ECM and associated wiring in place. I will be using mine once I decide to put the grid back in...
 
Thats what I thought - I just wanted to verify before I get knee-deep into my swap.
 
Gaskets will be the same between 12v and 24v. The cases bolt up the same to the block, so no need for a different gasket.

Like was said, brackets are different, but bolt to the block the same. There is a bracket on the bottom of the pump that looks like a big heavy T, and the block bracket has the profile of a hockey stick.

I used the wiring off my spare 12v to get it hooked up. Signal from the starter solenoid to the relay. This should be relatively low current. Fusible link from the batter to relay for power supply, and just plain 12ga wire from the relay to the solenoid. About 12ga wire from solenoid to ground. There should be a Green w/black tracer that is a switched igntion for the hold circuit. It is also low current, so something like a 16ga wire should be good.
 
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