Stainless Header fab.

F

fjbiker86

New member
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
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I thought you guys might like this. I was test fitting it today and found out that I need two move a tube a little lower because a ¼” clearance from the cab is not going to cut it for me.
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I know a lot of guys around here will flame it, but I would run one just for the looks on peoples faces when you pop the hood, I love Bling.
 
I’ve done lots of research before building this, shouldn’t be too much flaming. I will flame myself if it doesn’t perform!!! :hehe::hehe:
 
Looks good!!

I love the look of Stainless. I am doing all my twins piping in 4" & 3" polished stainless steel. I am also going to do the intercooler piping and airhorn out of stainless.

I am a PipeFitter by trade, and I was wondering how you ar going to make some of them welds. Are you going to cut the manifold apart, and then weld them section by section?

Remember, Stainles needs to be welded with low heat and slow. If you weld stainless to hot, it turns black and that means you have burned the nickel out of it, which means it will rust. when you are finished welding stainless the weld should look gold.
 
tony597fitter said:
Looks good!!

I love the look of Stainless. I am doing all my twins piping in 4" & 3" polished stainless steel. I am also going to do the intercooler piping and airhorn out of stainless.

I am a PipeFitter by trade, and I was wondering how you ar going to make some of them welds. Are you going to cut the manifold apart, and then weld them section by section?

Remember, Stainles needs to be welded with low heat and slow. If you weld stainless to hot, it turns black and that means you have burned the nickel out of it, which means it will rust. when you are finished welding stainless the weld should look gold.
Click to expand...

Thats really cool to know! I weld a lot around the house with an AC stick welder but hope someday I'll get a nice TIG and MIG setup!..

I think the header looks great! it doesn't appear to be equal length runners though correct? I bet having so much less restriction will really help spoolup and overall flow!
 
Muddin_dude06 said:
Thats really cool to know! I weld a lot around the house with an AC stick welder but hope someday I'll get a nice TIG and MIG setup!..

I think the header looks great! it doesn't appear to be equal length runners though correct? I bet having so much less restriction will really help spoolup and overall flow!
Click to expand...

I could tell you how to turn that stick welder into a tig setup for cheap.

PM me if your interested.
 
tony597fitter said:
Looks good!!

I love the look of Stainless. I am doing all my twins piping in 4" & 3" polished stainless steel. I am also going to do the intercooler piping and airhorn out of stainless.

I am a PipeFitter by trade, and I was wondering how you ar going to make some of them welds. Are you going to cut the manifold apart, and then weld them section by section?

Remember, Stainles needs to be welded with low heat and slow. If you weld stainless to hot, it turns black and that means you have burned the nickel out of it, which means it will rust. when you are finished welding stainless the weld should look gold.
Click to expand...

thanks for the info, the plan is to cut off sections and fully weld them and then put them back in the jig and attach the welded sections to the flanges. I have done some pretty good research on stainless as well. All weld joints will have solar flux on the inside of the tube so the weld will look as good on the inside as the outside. (solar flux is cheaper and easier then back purging with argon)
 
Muddin_dude06 said:
Thats really cool to know! I weld a lot around the house with an AC stick welder but hope someday I'll get a nice TIG and MIG setup!..

I think the header looks great! it doesn't appear to be equal length runners though correct? I bet having so much less restriction will really help spoolup and overall flow!
Click to expand...

No they are not equal length. They may be close but my objective was to reach the minimum length for individual runners and still fit in the stock location…..and I still need to do some tweaking
 
fjbiker86 said:
thanks for the info, the plan is to cut off sections and fully weld them and then put them back in the jig and attach the welded sections to the flanges. I have done some pretty good research on stainless as well. All weld joints will have solar flux on the inside of the tube so the weld will look as good on the inside as the outside. (solar flux is cheaper and easier then back purging with argon)
Click to expand...

Yeah, solar flux works good. I have used it alot out in the field. just make sure you clen everything good, and use a NEW stainless steel wire brushe. If you use a steel brush or a SS brush that you have brushed plain steel with it will leave rust spots.

Start off with about 65-70amps on your machine, and go SLOW!
 
tony, off topic but how do you like your job and do you have work right now? Im currently in a welding class and next summer im going to try and get a pipe and structural cert. (the class im in now is the one I need before I can take the cert classes) I live in Ca and my teacher says there’s all sorts of welding(Tig) jobs at food processing plants.
 
Thats sure going to be a purdy piece of machinery when its done!

quite the pretzel youve got there too!
 
I hope it works out for you frank. Your fab skills have come a long way in the last year or so.
 
:clap::clap:

looks good!!! please keep us posted on results.
 
Looks great! Only thing i see is the one tube that is close to the insulation on the top part of the fire wall....thats the way my header came out and on the dyno is caut that insulation on fire :hehe: we put my buddy on the side of the truck with a garden hose and he would give it a shot of water when it flamed up while we kept on runnin the $hit out of it on the rollers!
I just cut the insulation out away from the header( what was left of it anyway! :hehe: )
 
fjbiker86 said:
All weld joints will have solar flux on the inside of the tube so the weld will look as good on the inside as the outside. (solar flux is cheaper and easier then back purging with argon)
Click to expand...

Why is it hard to back purge with argon? And if you do any process welding (food, sanitary, steam, etc.) you can not use SOLAR FLUX because you will not get as good of finish. Not that it will matter on a header but you will get a better weld with argon purging.

Also some one said that if you you weld it to hot your weld will turn black, well that is kind of true unless you keep a shielding gas on it.

Oh yeah it looks sweet!
 
snoxracer said:
Why is it hard to back purge with argon? And if you do any process welding (food, sanitary, steam, etc.) you can not use SOLAR FLUX because you will not get as good of finish. Not that it will matter on a header but you will get a better weld with argon purging.

Also some one said that if you you weld it to hot your weld will turn black, well that is kind of true unless you keep a shielding gas on it.

Oh yeah it looks sweet!
Click to expand...

Even with a Argon purge if you weld Stainless to hot it burns the nickle out. Why do you think EVERY Stainless header and exhaust weld is black and rusts at the weld? It was welded to hot.

Next time I do some stainless, I will post a pic of when its done it should look gold.

Ive been a welder for 15 years, have done thousands of x-ray joints which have consisted of stainless, inconel, monel, carbon, titanium, aluminum, you name it. Solar Flux WILL NOT make a joint weaker if the joint has been properly welded.
YES, a back purge is better, but for a header it isnt needed.
 
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