Stainless Header fab.

haha I stand by my statement (I also assume the reasoning for that setup was for fitment/clearance purposes)
 
Yeah I figured it was probably clearance I have just never seen that before and found it strange to see
 
update

Here are some more pictures of my turtle like progress. Before I started to build these headers I knew it was going to be hard work. ..I never anticipated this much work! These things take forever! And sitting at a bench tig welding all day I would go with a darker shade then 10. I wore sunglasses under my shade 10 hood and my eyes still did not like it.
header016.jpg
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What I welded today
header018.jpg
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Collector for turbo flange
header017.jpg
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protect your whole body! flash burn sux!
very pretty colors! cant wait to see it done!
 
tony597fitter said:
VERY NICE!

Have you ever tried cup walking? It makes the weld more uniform.
Click to expand...

No, i have not. Im going to try that today because I cant stand inconsistent welds. When you are trying to be consistent do you move the torch in very small circles?
 
Not for cup walking. All you do is move back and forward and the cup will do the walking.

Practice on some flat stock to get the hang of it.
 
tony597fitter said:
This is sinner's twin piping.
This is what sch.10 stainless should look like when welded properly.
Notice NO burn marks.
Click to expand...

Where is the gold color? Oh yeah that got buffed off when the weld was polished to remove the discoloring from the heat.:bang
 
snoxracer said:
Where is the gold color? Oh yeah that got buffed off when the weld was polished to remove the discoloring from the heat.:bang
Click to expand...

No kidding eh

Good progress on the header, would like to hear your impressions on how it drives when it's done.
 
TURBOLVR said:
protect your whole body! flash burn sux!
very pretty colors! cant wait to see it done!
Click to expand...

no kidding, I wont touch a welder unless I have on long sleeves and pants! And I wont touch a flux core unless I have on thick leather boots! When I first started welding, I wore shorts and the work piece was between my legs, the next day the skin peeled off my legs in sheets. im talking 4" x 4" sheets :bang:bang
 
tony597fitter said:
Even with a Argon purge if you weld Stainless to hot it burns the nickle out. Why do you think EVERY Stainless header and exhaust weld is black and rusts at the weld? .
Click to expand...

Discoloration is oxidation! It is just a matter if the argon shielding encelope leaving the hot metal before it has a chance to cool enough to not oxidize.

Stainless steel is stainless because of the protective chromium oxides on the surface, if those oxides are removed by welding (because heating will bring the free iron in the stainless to the surface) then the iron in the steel is exposed and will rust. NOT BECAUSE YOU BURN OUT THE NICKEL

If you want to keep your welds from rusting then you need to re-passivate the stainless. Passivating stainless steel is normally done in the industry by dipping the part in a bath of nitric acid or in process piping by pumping it thru the system. Nitric acid dissolves any FREE IRON or other containants from the surface, which cleans the metal and re-oxidizes the chromium surface. But you don't need a nitric acid bath to passivate, the key is to clean the weld, using a 3m rol-lok pad shotch brite, and remove all of the discoloration from the weld. And over about a week with the weld clean it will re-passivate itself from the oxygen in the atmosphere and reform the protective chromium oxides.

Any pipe fitter should know all of that.

Dustin
 
snoxracer said:
Discoloration is oxidation! It is just a matter if the argon shielding encelope leaving the hot metal before it has a chance to cool enough to not oxidize.

Stainless steel is stainless because of the protective chromium oxides on the surface, if those oxides are removed by welding (because heating will bring the free iron in the stainless to the surface) then the iron in the steel is exposed and will rust. NOT BECAUSE YOU BURN OUT THE NICKEL

If you want to keep your welds from rusting then you need to re-passivate the stainless. Passivating stainless steel is normally done in the industry by dipping the part in a bath of nitric acid or in process piping by pumping it thru the system. Nitric acid dissolves any FREE IRON or other containants from the surface, which cleans the metal and re-oxidizes the chromium surface. But you don't need a nitric acid bath to passivate, the key is to clean the weld, using a 3m rol-lok pad shotch brite, and remove all of the discoloration from the weld. And over about a week with the weld clean it will re-passivate itself from the oxygen in the atmosphere and reform the protective chromium oxides.

Any pipe fitter should know all of that.

Dustin
Click to expand...

Did you go to the library to learn that? :hehe:

I have been welding for a profession since 1993, 40-90+ hours a week, joint after joint, x-ray after x-ray, bend test, magna-fluxed, continuity tested etc.

I have NEVER had a bad weld to date.

I have been teaching incoming apprentices welding during the week, 2 nights a week on and off for 10 years.

I guess 16 years for me and 9000 Local Union 597 Pipe Fitters must be wrong. Not including the other 300,000 United Association members.

Just curious Dustin, what do you do for a living?
 
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Link doesnt work copy, paste, just doesnt work.

No offense, but I'm done with this thread, its a waste of my time. I was trying to help fjbiker and everyone else has to argue.

Years of experience goes a long way.
 
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