steet truck/ sled pulling

Smokem said:
You don't think horsepower is a factor to being able to achieve more RPM?
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Rhetorically, isn't over application of torque the determinate factor, and not the speed at which it occurs?

High torque output with low torque take-off=rpm climb

I've debated this in internal dialogue but it's a who begat whom question.

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Well traction is a pretty large factor in this equation, it would be easy to run more RPM down the track with that final if it just had bald tires. That is a faster final gear than most LPS trucks run with an additional 900hp.
 
Smokem said:
Well traction is a pretty large factor in this equation, it would be easy to run more RPM down the track with that final if it just had bald tires. That is a faster final gear than most LPS trucks run with an additional 900hp.
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yep that’s the point! like i said around here is alot of loose track i alrealy run 4 low or 2hi but need like 5-600rpm more, so i dont need 900hp.. i think?
 
You defiantly need more horsepower to run a 12.4 final drive, which is what your running with an NV4500 in 2nd gear and the T case in high. 11.15 is 4th gear low, and is miles too fast. We run that speed in the 3.0 truck on **** tracks with a 6.7 to try to get it to load.

And going down the track at 2500-3000 rpm IS where you will break stuff. If you went down the track at 4500-4800 you could do that for years and never have to touch the thing. 5.9's love to run at that RPM. At 3000 you're making too much torque, the engine is "grunting" and you will break it.
 
bigstacks95 said:
If you went down the track at 4500-4800 you could do that for years and never have to touch the thing.
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There isn't anything in his setup that would make that possible, I doubt it would turn that hard in neutral.
 
Thanks guys, I have been meaning to do a "build thread" at some point maybe I should get on that.
 
bigstacks95 said:
You defiantly need more horsepower to run a 12.4 final drive, which is what your running with an NV4500 in 2nd gear and the T case in high. 11.15 is 4th gear low, and is miles too fast. We run that speed in the 3.0 truck on **** tracks with a 6.7 to try to get it to load.

And going down the track at 2500-3000 rpm IS where you will break stuff. If you went down the track at 4500-4800 you could do that for years and never have to touch the thing. 5.9's love to run at that RPM. At 3000 you're making too much torque, the engine is "grunting" and you will break it.
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ya that is why i came here, have idea what to do, only loose track around here, 265/70/17 mt remolded tires( hook very good ) and i dont want to spend 3-4000$ want a truck street friendly, so no t4 housing no 13mm pump and i dont want water injection , 64.5/74/.80? 66/74/.80? cam worth it? 7mm delivery valve or 191 do the trick? 4k gsk( with more click) or 5k gsk? bigger injector? that kind of mods! wil not put ported head and that kind of stuff

with my adjustable timing gear install this winter i will be able to run normal timing on street and change it to 25+ for the pull!

maybe 4lo is not for me and im better 2hi, because 3 lo engine is floating, no enough load

my truck is alrealy good( i think) but need that little more step and i dont know what would be the best bang for the bucks!

tanks!
 
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If you are running enough rack travel to allow the plunger to get into the upper helix, increasing the timing advance too far will hurt power. I think you are missing the point of several comments in this thread, what you want cannot be achieved by simply bolting on a few parts. You need to be closer to a 13.9:1 final which you can't come close to with any combination of gearing you currently have.

At 4k RPM you are trying to run 34mph in 4th low, 30mph in 2nd high, which are both far too fast for your power level, and 3rd low is 20mph which is too slow.
 
Smokem said:
If you are running enough rack travel to allow the plunger to get into the upper helix, increasing the timing advance too far will hurt power. I think you are missing the point of several comments in this thread, what you want cannot be achieved by simply bolting on a few parts. You need to be closer to a 13.9:1 final which you can't come close to with any combination of gearing you currently have.

At 4k RPM you are trying to run 34mph in 4th low, 30mph in 2nd high, which are both far too fast for your power level, and 3rd low is 20mph which is too slow.
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i know all this, but i am not re gearing, 4.10 is plenty hi rpm on the street. i just want to optimize the setup i have with adding a few parts if it can help gain a few hundred rpm or leave it like this because it didnt worth investing more
 
How's your suspension setup? Stock, leveled, lifted? A random thought is if lifted, or leveled, with the right wheels, you should be able to clear 35's. If running 33's with 4.10's now, the street manners would be close with 35's and 4.56 gears. But dropp back to the 33's for pulling to pick up the extra rpms of the deeper gear set. Or just try finding a shorter tire for pulling to pick up the final drive ratio, would likely hurt the traction, but could be made up for if you could go wide enough to keep a similar contact patch with the ground.
In the end I don't know that anything mentioned will make you truly happy with the truck. Kinda sounds like you're getting to the point of it's either a pulling truck, or a street truck, because you have to sacrifice setup characteristics of one or both, to try to get it to live as a dual use toy.
Maybe a different transfer case with a lower low range gear to get the final drive ratio closer in direct of the transmission?

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J-Pipes said:
How's your suspension setup? Stock, leveled, lifted? A random thought is if lifted, or leveled, with the right wheels, you should be able to clear 35's. If running 33's with 4.10's now, the street manners would be close with 35's and 4.56 gears. But dropp back to the 33's for pulling to pick up the extra rpms of the deeper gear set. Or just try finding a shorter tire for pulling to pick up the final drive ratio, would likely hurt the traction, but could be made up for if you could go wide enough to keep a similar contact patch with the ground.
In the end I don't know that anything mentioned will make you truly happy with the truck. Kinda sounds like you're getting to the point of it's either a pulling truck, or a street truck, because you have to sacrifice setup characteristics of one or both, to try to get it to live as a dual use toy.
Maybe a different transfer case with a lower low range gear to get the final drive ratio closer in direct of the transmission?

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stock suspension , got 265/70/17 tire for pulling now. first year pulling since new setup, last setup was 3.54 gear with nv5600 and compound 362/485 and i have run it for 5 years, never break anything but the head gasket!
 
first pull of the year today, no very upgrade compare to last year( now 7mm delivery valves, 5k gsk from haisley and stage 3 ddp injector with pilot holes and 28* timing)

7500 lbs class all weight in bed can run 4 low will run 4500-5000 rpm( have finish 2nd)

8500 lbs class with 900 lbs on the front run 2nd high with max 3500rpm and bug out at the end( 195ft on a 230 ft track ) i think i was last. have try put all weight in bed but almost same result( 194ft)

limited by the turbo i think, can’t even get more of 40psi boost
 
last pull timing down to 25*

have get a superb special cheap(64/71/14) for test

same problem as above, so staying at the same point
 
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