stupid injection lines

try having someone brase it. i saw some p pump conversion lines cut and brased together with no leaks.
 
Tate said:
Being that they are stainless, its more likely of being a crack. You rarely hear of mild steel ones cracking. I ran .078" lines for several years with a 215 pump and I thought the lines were a PITA. I bought .093" lines when I went to the 13mm pump, and they changed the way they bent them, and not for the better. Before I screw #6 into the head, I have to weave #5 into it first. Before I can screw #5 to the head, I have to weave #4 into it. The only ones that don't get tangled into each other is #1 and #2. One of the reasons I'm thinking of doing a 12v head on the next engine.
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The tractor guys our friend runs with carry one to two sets of spare mild steel lines on the trailer because they do break them and they are cheap enough to keep on the trailer. I know Kyle has broken all 6 this year but they were old lines.
 
The mild steel lines dont seem to hold up like they use too. Ive also notice on my truck and tractors if one line breaks just replace all lines connected with that line because they will break next. When you install the lines oil the line and the inside of the nut basically anywhere there will be contact. It seems the trucks vibrate alot more than the tractors. I havent yet but plan to make a bracket between the valve cover bolts and lines to get rid of as much movement as possible. I would look around for lines last ones i bought were $40 a piece for .093 30inch mild steel.
 
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I got a mild steel line from Scheids, since I got the stanless lines frm them. It gets the job done, but I have one complaint. The set of stainless lines are a work of art...the mild steel replacement for the #1 cylinder looks like 10 punds of crap in a 5 pound bag. It's not bent in remotely the same fashion. Oh well. Truck runs.

AND Bowtie, I'm desperately trying to find time to get out there and have you guys lookk into this idle problem.
 
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