swap to a 12V or stick with the 24V?

Most 98s have a 53 block. Both of mine had one. And my 2000 24v has one. I would be surprised if it was'nt. But i have been wrong before.
 
Diehard Ram said:
I bet you have a 53 block. Your parts list is way overkill for what you need. I would stay with a 24v head. It flows more air than a 12v will ever do. Somethings on your parts list you don't really need. If i was building it i would go about it a different way.
I can tell from your lack of experience you don't really know what you need.

Don't take that the wrong way, i would spend my money on whats really needed. And not on stuff thats not needed.
Click to expand...

What parts specifically are to overkill?

What exactly would you do differently?
 
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i bought a rebuild kit off puredieselpower.com.... put in the NON-IC pistons, new rings, a 181/210 cam.... ran a deglazing hone down the cyclinders and changed out all the bearings... my "new" motor runs like a top....

$1000 rebuild kit shipped to my door
$1000 for cam, lifters, retainer etc off my buddy
$200 for booze and parts like the rear frost plug block off plate, hone, and misc small things
 
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displacedtexan said:
What is with all these people wanting to reinvent the wheel?
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It rolls to easily I think...Maybe it keeps getting away from them?

This is the ticket right here man!:
TS9Kk.jpg



LOL
 
At what point does a stock rebuild compromise reliability?

At what point does it make sense to mill the intake and add an aftermarket CAC (have my eye on Haisley's with the 4" inlet/outlet)?
 
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