Switching out 47re for nv5600

01CTD

01CTD

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Nov 4, 2009
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I was wondering if anyone has done this might have any tips or pointers or just let me run into any problems i might run into would be great. Ill be starting on it this weekend. Also i have heard that i might have to get my ecm reflashed to a manual trans? does anyone know for sure whether or not that is true? Thanks!
 
Well i started on saturday tearing down everything and pretty much got everything out that needs to come out to put the manual trans in. I took the trans out, transfer case, both drive shafts, cross member, bell housing, flex plate, trans lines, trans cooler, unhooked all the electrical connections, took the shifter out of the steering column, took out the brake pedal, took out the kick down cable, which all took me a good 8 hrs to do. Still looking for any pointers or tips for installing the 6 spd. Hopefully get started putting it in this coming weekend. Im still concerned if i will or will not have to get the ecm reflashed?
 
It isn't a MUST. It will stall easier with the auto tuning, and I think there is some for rev issues. A smarty usually fixes that.
Bob can send you a recovery program for a manual trans. Shouldn't be a problem.
 
Cumminsfever said:
It isn't a MUST. It will stall easier with the auto tuning, and I think there is some for rev issues. A smarty usually fixes that.
Bob can send you a recovery program for a manual trans. Shouldn't be a problem.
Click to expand...

So i can get a recover program for the smarty to reprogram the ecm for a manual trans?
 
I did my conversion before the smarty came out so the only option i had was to replace my ecm, pcm, and abs module with one from an '01, that fixed all of the problems i was having (limp mode, no cruise, abs light, etc).
 
shortbox or longbox truck ?

u will need pedal assembly and shifter console for floor out of a donor truck, as well as front d-shaft and crossmember and transfer case.. unless u can swap input shafts on the t-case yourself..

rear d-shaft may have to be shortened approx 2"... make sure YOU measure it

buy NEW hydrolics and a GOOD clutch don't waste your time with stock crap
 
Kronic_187 said:
shortbox or longbox truck ?

u will need pedal assembly and shifter console for floor out of a donor truck, as well as front d-shaft and crossmember and transfer case.. unless u can swap input shafts on the t-case yourself..

rear d-shaft may have to be shortened approx 2"... make sure YOU measure it

buy NEW hydrolics and a GOOD clutch don't waste your time with stock crap
Click to expand...

I have a quad cab long bed and i bought a complete conversion kit which comes with all that stuff and the guy im getting it from said the only thing i will need to do is get my rear drive shaft lengthened.
 
Well this past weekend I installed the resurfaced fly wheel and new clutch, reinstaled my starter with a shim and longer bolts, than instaled the trans, you dont need a different cross member for an 01 cause it dropped right in my cross member from my auto. I than moved to the cab i went from below the truck and drilled 4 holes one on each corner of the shift tower from the bottom up and than cut it out. put the shift tower together and put all the plastics on.I found that all the holes for the floor console were already indented under the carpet. I put my steering column back together with the new plastics. I than put the clutch and brake pedal i hooked up the master and slave cylinder. Now for the wiring i took the plug from my autos wiring harness that had 3 wires and cut it off. I ran the center wire to one of the two wires on the clutch pedal and than ran the other wire from the clutch pedal to a good ground. thats your neutral safety. The other two wires from the 3 wire plug are the reverse lights. I pushed the clutch in and the truck fired up, had no lights on in the dash and it aperared to be running fine. So this weekend once i get my rear drive shaft back and switch out input gears in my transfercase i should be on the road again if all goes well. I have about $3000 in this conversion thats including everything and that should be it.
 
I actually didnt have any dash lights come on, as long as you ground that neutral safety wire you shouldnt have any problems. I at first ran the neutral safety wire to the clutch pedal and i had a lot of problems when i had it wired like that because it was only grounding when the pedal was pushed in. so i just grounded it with a switch instead that i can turn on and off. but when that wire is grounded at all times it gave me no issues, no lights, the only codes stored in the computer were trans temp voltage and 3-4 shift voltage no light set in the dash though.
 
I tried to get a hold of Bob wagner about getting me a recovery program and i never heard anything from him.
 
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