Tapping the Oil Pan for 2nd Turbo Drain

LAmiller

LAmiller

THE KT-BOUNDARY
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Aug 17, 2006
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I've had twins on my truck for 5yrs now and I don't think I've EVER had the bottom turbo drain clean and dry with no oil leaks for more then a few months.
I'm tired of trying to work with such a short silicone hose between the turbo drain and the block oil bung, since its just about impossible to get work with once the twins are in place.
I'm thinking of punching a hole in the oil pan and installing a drain line fitting into so I can have a few more options on how to drain the oil.

I've searched for info on doing this with some results but no details on what works best, so I'm looking for ideas on what fittings work the best for this.

I'm thinking of putting something like this into the pan. A few other threads suggested taking a air chisel punch a hole threw the pan then thread in the fitting with JB weld.
LN01-LN01-2295649_xl.jpg


If you have any experience/suggestions let me know.

Lavon
 
Pull the pan. An air chisel will not make the hole you need and will likely leak if you use JB weld.

I would weld a -10an fitting on a factory drain tube, and just silicone it in the block in addition to the OEM O-ring. Same thing on the turbo.

Then you get to use that fancy braided hose. ;)

Mark had some flex drain stuff at MCN that looked promising. And easy.
 
i agree on welding the bung in. I used -10 when i had mine, i dont think it was big enough. the stock steel line is much closer to -14

I plan on tapping both of the block drains to 3/4" pipe.
 
Truck No Run! said:
Pull the pan. An air chisel will not make the hole you need and will likely leak if you use JB weld.

I would weld a -10an fitting on a factory drain tube, and just silicone it in the block in addition to the OEM O-ring. Same thing on the turbo.

Then you get to use that fancy braided hose. ;)

Mark had some flex drain stuff at MCN that looked promising. And easy.
Click to expand...


Dido. At the auto parts in the help section is what ur lookin for... Weld'r n be done... Try to place the drain as close to the top as u can. Don't forget a new gasket for insurance
 
Truck No Run! said:
Pull the pan. An air chisel will not make the hole you need and will likely leak if you use JB weld.

I would weld a -10an fitting on a factory drain tube, and just silicone it in the block in addition to the OEM O-ring. Same thing on the turbo.

Then you get to use that fancy braided hose. ;)

Mark had some flex drain stuff at MCN that looked promising. And easy.
Click to expand...

Your talking still using the factory drain hole that I'm using currently?

I had a -10AN fitting welded up but then the fittings for the stainless braided line were too long and I couldn't even fit the two fittings in between the block and the turbo, much less get any hose on them.
 
GOLDDUSTERS5703 said:
Dido. At the auto parts in the help section is what ur lookin for... Weld'r n be done... Try to place the drain as close to the top as u can. Don't forget a new gasket for insurance
Click to expand...

Also be sure to place the new drain fitting between two of the oil pan bolt holes, if it's directly under a bolt...you'll figure it out soon enough!
 
LReiff said:
Also be sure to place the new drain fitting between two of the oil pan bolt holes, if it's directly under a bolt...you'll figure it out soon enough!
Click to expand...

makes sense... too bad I didn't do it when the engine was out this summer LOL

Lavon
 
LAmiller said:
Your talking still using the factory drain hole that I'm using currently?

I had a -10AN fitting welded up but then the fittings for the stainless braided line were too long and I couldn't even fit the two fittings in between the block and the turbo, much less get any hose on them.
Click to expand...

Im talking about using both of them, your truck should have 2 drain holes in the block unless you used a 12v block.

Hmm, if you cant use the -10 get a flex tube stuff, someone should have a link.
 
Truck No Run! said:
Im talking about using both of them, your truck should have 2 drain holes in the block unless you used a 12v block.

Hmm, if you cant use the -10 get a flex tube stuff, someone should have a link.
Click to expand...

Yeah I have the two drain plugs... A link to the flex tube stuff would be nice.

Lavon
 
you don't need to pull the pan, we have done it many times. you need to start out and hammer a small punch threw where ya want it located. then keep working up in punch sizes till the hole is big enough for your tap.then tap the hole. what happens is the metal from the holes rolls in and creates a inverted bung so to speeak. it is what supercharger kits tell ya to do in there instructions. you could just down load a set of vortech directions . but it works very well.
 
coon smile said:
At the turbo or at the bung?
Click to expand...

Both... I put a new gaskets on the turbos and somehow it still leaks down the hose. Top and bottom turbo leak, its enough to really piss me off. It leaks where the bung goes into the block too.

Lavon
 
LAmiller said:
Both... I put a new gaskets on the turbos and somehow it still leaks down the hose. Top and bottom turbo leak, its enough to really piss me off. It leaks where the bung goes into the block too.

Lavon
Click to expand...

Try tightening up the clamps with a couple more turns!
 
LAmiller said:
Both... I put a new gaskets on the turbos and somehow it still leaks down the hose. Top and bottom turbo leak, its enough to really piss me off. It leaks where the bung goes into the block too.

Lavon
Click to expand...

Lavon, that don't make sense... what drain pipe you using? a home brew deal?
 
mine seeps a little nothing like that but enough to piss a guy off. Anyone have any pics of what they have done?? What about using some permatex or something that is really tacky?
 
is there not another way other than tapping the oil pan for you to be able to run twins. another question, if you pulled the pan off would you have to replace the seals i know the pan gasket you would but what about the rear main seal. dont know thats why im asking
 
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