Tire preffrence...??

Dodgentwo said:
35 is still a lot of tire to run. But i guess if you pulled with 38's it should be ok.
But like codyn said "wheel speed and traction go a long way"
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yeah seemed to pull good with the 38's and low hp im not gonna get really competitve just looking for tires to minimize breaking things and pull good
 
Bigger tires usually seem to break more stuff, just cuz it takes more to turn them. But like I said if it pulled with the 38, anything smaller will help.
 
zstroken said:
You should really loose the lift. It puts the driveline at bad angles, which is a disaster for ujoints.
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yeah its so so the front has been lengthend so its not to bad and the rears a two piece but im debating going to a 4inch lift with some 35's
 
If you just have a body lift it won't be that bad, but if you've put blocks in. 4" is a lot when a drive shaft is only 36" to begin with.
 
90% of lifted trucks I see pull break. But im sure you could have special shafts built to comp for the lift.
 
Some kind of Allterrain would be the way to go. A mud terrain or even a very very agressive all terrain can hurt you more than help going down the track. You want to stay on top of the ground as much as possible and grip the top surface rather than dig ditches and rutts in the track. A very aggressive tire will dig too much and sink the tires into the ground. That just causes the tires to try to work harder on getting on top of the ground again and it will basically be like having a big wheel chock in front of your tires. Ever notice how the Mod trucks and Super Stock tractors do not have a very deep tread. The cleats are only about a 1/4"-3/8" tall. This it to help them stay on top of the track better. Hope this helps.
 
03f3507.3 said:
running 3.73's so its not going to be a problem droping to a smaller tire....have a BTS tranny but im debating taking off the lift or at least going down to a smaller one but i like have a giant high hp truck! nothing like a 8klb land monster taking down some ****stangs and cameros*nx*
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03f3507.3 said:
well i should be making around 550-600whp on fuel only and then i have a dual stage nitrous on top of that....
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Well now, whatcha got under your hood hot rod???
 
Dreambreaker said:
Well now, whatcha got under your hood hot rod???
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basic run down...fully built 7.3, BTS trans, BTS dual hpops, casserly built 300cc injectors, ASB 1350cfm turbo, custom fuel set up 5/8inch lines aeromotive pump, dual stage nitrous, coolingmist water injection....:st:
 
with 35s and 373 you will snuff that charger when you hit 3rd gear, but thats just my .02
 
Don't use third gear. use a trq converter lock up module and Lock the converter after you get 2nd gear wound out. Its will kind work like a split gear between 2nd and 3rd
 
I know some of the stronger fair pullers here in MO have run alot of 50% tread Baja claws and did great. You get all the bite of a mudder, but not quit so much that you'll possibly break something....though, you would either have to buy them new and wear them down or get lucky and find a pair that are partially used....
 
99Binder said:
with 35s and 373 you will snuff that charger when you hit 3rd gear, but thats just my .02
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so would 33's be a better choice with the 3.73's then or just lock it in 2nd?
 
you need third gear to hang with the dmaxs you will never do it with second locked in, a 7.3 wont turn the rpms to hang with anything left in second gear. you gotta have third or find a way to run 4500 rpms in second for competive wheel speed.
 
99Binder said:
you need third gear to hang with the dmaxs you will never do it with second locked in, a 7.3 wont turn the rpms to hang with anything left in second gear. you gotta have third or find a way to run 4500 rpms in second for competive wheel speed.
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so im guessing 33's it is then....
 
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