to much fuel for a 35/ht3b!!

LOL :hehe: LOL yes i can... The nicest, cleanest, most babied Flame Red Sport in existence.
 
XTrEmE9156 said:
The nicest, cleanest, most babied Flame Red Sport in existence.
Click to expand...

sounds like he belongs over on the cummins forum


dave, forget i asked. unsubscribing


ron - if i were gonna run a cummins in the factory rec rpm range 1800-2300 i would run 13° of timing

but what fun would that be...
 
If you never run over 2500rpm, why modify anything in the first place? Not hot roddin it, you just want to use more fuel???
 
you know how some of those small towns are...

if it dont smoke a little between shifts you aint gonna get you none

ever...
 
DTanklage said:
you know how some of those small towns are...

if it dont smoke a little between shifts you aint gonna get you none

ever...
Click to expand...

i'll admit that's funny.......... alot of kids around gere are like that.. every chance they get they need to make smoke....

is there any way to get this thread back on track..?
 
If you never run over 2500rpm, why modify anything in the first place? Not hot roddin it, you just want to use more fuel???
Click to expand...

WHY You ask.......

Thats simple and one even you could understand...

I am a firm believer in trying to make power within or as close to the normal factory powerband as one can.All the fueling and RPM on top does one not a bit of good on the street where one rarely sees any RPM above 2500-2700.IF your making max power as close as you can to where it was initially intended to be made then torque numbers go up large and the motor becomes very efficent.HP and RPM may be what one needs to make power when your dragging a sled down a track but on the street where RPM is very limited due to normal traffic,stop lights and the police big torque will move you faster off of the light and allow you to not use as much rpm to get the job done.

The problem we have with our truck is everyone thinks we all make or want to make max power above 2700 rpm when in fact there are those of us who do not desire that.Most ALL of the camshaft companies who make them for our trucks have designed their products to do that thus when a owner buys one you end up with a combination that is lazy down low and max power and torque are made too close together and made way to high.

IF you spread the max power and max torque apart and make the numbers down further in the rpm band then you will significantly increase the torque number thus making your combination more efficent for the street.HO made at or above 2700 may be neat on the drag strip or the pulling track but you give me a truck that makes max power down near 2100,where the 12v motor is intended to be made,and watch the torque number inflate and how much more efficent your combo is for double duty.

All the HP in the world is nice to look at on a sheet but torque is what does all the work with these trucks........Andy
 
All the fueling and RPM on top does one not a bit of good on the street where one rarely sees any RPM above 2500-2700
Click to expand...

I go over that every time I drive, you must have a manual then or you would too, or do you never go over 2/3 throttle?

The problem we have with our truck is everyone thinks we all make or want to make max power above 2700 rpm when in fact there are those of us who do not desire that.Most ALL of the camshaft companies who make them for our trucks have designed their products to do that thus when a owner buys one you end up with a combination that is lazy down low and max power and torque are made too close together and made way to high.
Click to expand...

Why do you need an aftermarket cam, if not to change the "powerband"?

HP and RPM may be what one needs to make power when your dragging a sled down a track but on the street where RPM is very limited due to normal traffic,stop lights and the police big torque will move you faster off of the light and allow you to not use as much rpm to get the job done.
Click to expand...

I could swear this site was called "Competition Diesel"....guess I'm wrong again.

If you want max power at 2100rpm, you'll never have much more than stock. Most chargers are not even spooled yet at 2100...
 
My truck rarely sees much over 2500RPM It's a tow rig.

And I'm here because for the most part we don't have tards like some of the other sites are filled with:hehe:
 
I don't see any problems with the pictures posted???

Isn't that just a pic of the new low drive pressure turbine wheel?
 
Hammer said:
WHY You ask.......

Thats simple and one even you could understand...

I am a firm believer in trying to make power within or as close to the normal factory powerband as one can.All the fueling and RPM on top does one not a bit of good on the street where one rarely sees any RPM above 2500-2700.IF your making max power as close as you can to where it was initially intended to be made then torque numbers go up large and the motor becomes very efficent.HP and RPM may be what one needs to make power when your dragging a sled down a track but on the street where RPM is very limited due to normal traffic,stop lights and the police big torque will move you faster off of the light and allow you to not use as much rpm to get the job done.

The problem we have with our truck is everyone thinks we all make or want to make max power above 2700 rpm when in fact there are those of us who do not desire that.Most ALL of the camshaft companies who make them for our trucks have designed their products to do that thus when a owner buys one you end up with a combination that is lazy down low and max power and torque are made too close together and made way to high.

IF you spread the max power and max torque apart and make the numbers down further in the rpm band then you will significantly increase the torque number thus making your combination more efficent for the street.HO made at or above 2700 may be neat on the drag strip or the pulling track but you give me a truck that makes max power down near 2100,where the 12v motor is intended to be made,and watch the torque number inflate and how much more efficent your combo is for double duty.

All the HP in the world is nice to look at on a sheet but torque is what does all the work with these trucks........Andy
Click to expand...


Is that what you tell yourself every time you get WALKED on by a guy that's actually making power up top?

LMAO.


Also, you might want to ask your input shaft/trans/rods/headgasket how that whole power down low with grandiose torque idea pans out from their point of view.

From the sounds of it, you like a truck that grunts a lot, blows the tires off in the lower gears and then hooks and doesn't really do much after that....

How exciting.

How about a truck that keeps pulling and pulling and pulling and PULLING harder and harder and harder until you hit the limiter?

Nah, that wouldn't be any fun at all, lol.
 
Obviously some people have never worked (towing) their truck. You don't go screaming up a pass at 4k+ rpms with a 10k+ trailer in tow. If you did your engine would NOT last 500k miles.
 
apwatson50 said:
Obviously some people have never worked (towing) their truck. You don't go screaming up a pass at 4k+ rpms with a 10k+ trailer in tow. If you did your engine would NOT last 500k miles.
Click to expand...

Obviously some people forget to get out of their pickup and into their Semi when it comes time to tow something worth mentioning...

My truck only shows to be making ~250hp at 2100rpm. Does that mean your truck will outwork mine?

(Fwiw, I have melted every piece of driveline from the input shaft rearward towing. The rest of the chassis eventually becomes the weak link, not the engine)
 
What I want to know is.....

If that's what the turbine housing/wheel looks like..... how bout them aluminum pistons???

:huh::
 
Hammer said:
WHY You ask.......

Thats simple and one even you could understand...

I am a firm believer in trying to make power within or as close to the normal factory powerband as one can.All the fueling and RPM on top does one not a bit of good on the street where one rarely sees any RPM above 2500-2700.IF your making max power as close as you can to where it was initially intended to be made then torque numbers go up large and the motor becomes very efficent.HP and RPM may be what one needs to make power when your dragging a sled down a track but on the street where RPM is very limited due to normal traffic,stop lights and the police big torque will move you faster off of the light and allow you to not use as much rpm to get the job done.

The problem we have with our truck is everyone thinks we all make or want to make max power above 2700 rpm when in fact there are those of us who do not desire that.Most ALL of the camshaft companies who make them for our trucks have designed their products to do that thus when a owner buys one you end up with a combination that is lazy down low and max power and torque are made too close together and made way to high.

IF you spread the max power and max torque apart and make the numbers down further in the rpm band then you will significantly increase the torque number thus making your combination more efficent for the street.HO made at or above 2700 may be neat on the drag strip or the pulling track but you give me a truck that makes max power down near 2100,where the 12v motor is intended to be made,and watch the torque number inflate and how much more efficent your combo is for double duty.

All the HP in the world is nice to look at on a sheet but torque is what does all the work with these trucks........Andy
Click to expand...
*bdh*


I'd tell myself the same thing if I couldn't tune a 12V beyond that ever elusive 400hp threshold. :doh:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top