Torque Converter Lock Out

Cantankerous1 said:
Middle will NOT work without an external source of resistance to keep the ECU happy. That probably would not be a problem if its at the end of a run.

The problem you may have is finding the center position in th eheat of the moment. Hence why I suggested wiring this switch in between your lockup switch and the trans. That way leave the lockup switch on and swipe this one off and it should unlock the TC. Then you can reset in a calmer period.

The big question is whether its an electrical or hydraulic problem that is holding lockup.
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The first time I looked at your first post, I was at work, and I could not see the diagram for whatever reason. The part I did not under stand was the spare solenoid? I'm not a very good electrician. So if I cut the t/c lock up wire and wire both ends into the first switch to control unlock, when the switch is on the ecm will control lock up. Then jumper off that switch to my lock up switch. Then when I get to the end of the run turn off the first switch which will break the circuit allowing the T/C to unlock. Correct? If I break that connection what will the ECM see or we looking for? Will it cause the ECM to throw a code, or will it not know anything happened? I was a little concerned about trying to find middle with a 3 postion switch as well.

I believe its an electrical issue/ECM issue, because at low speed I can manually lock and unlock the converter, but once it hits 3rd gear the ECM locks up the converter.
 
It's the PCM. It's not an "issue", just normal operation. With a lockup switch you are providing a ground which energizes the solenoid. If the PCM is not commanding the converter to be locked, you can engage and disengage the Tc all day long. As soon as the PCM is ready to lock up the Tc it provides the ground, and all your switch will be is a secondary ground, which does nothing.

The most likely reason for the spare solenoid in his diagram is to "fool" the PCM into thinking it energized the Tc lockup solenoid, preventing it from thinking there is a problem.
 
06RAMCTD said:
The first time I looked at your first post, I was at work, and I could not see the diagram for whatever reason. The part I did not under stand was the spare solenoid? I'm not a very good electrician. So if I cut the t/c lock up wire and wire both ends into the first switch to control unlock, when the switch is on the ecm will control lock up. Then jumper off that switch to my lock up switch. Then when I get to the end of the run turn off the first switch which will break the circuit allowing the T/C to unlock. Correct? If I break that connection what will the ECM see or we looking for? Will it cause the ECM to throw a code, or will it not know anything happened? I was a little concerned about trying to find middle with a 3 postion switch as well.

I believe its an electrical issue/ECM issue, because at low speed I can manually lock and unlock the converter, but once it hits 3rd gear the ECM locks up the converter.
Click to expand...

The reason for using the spare solenoid, or a resistor if it is sized correctly, is to pull the load form the circuit. If you try to run the voltage and amperage to ground in the ECU you will burn that circuit out. The ECU portion of the circuit is never meant to handle an amperage load.

Your description of breaking that circuit is correct. If it is loccking up correctly then opening the switch should drop lockup. If you do not provide the ECU with a resistance in the range it expects it will go into limp mode and possibly cause issues the next time you run. Wiring the spare solenoid in just allows you to unlock the TC manually and still tell the ECU that things are ok so it doesn't cause problems.
 
Any idea what resistance its looking for? 33ohm? So i need something to proved something on the OFF side of the switch to prevent a code, but what? What size/type of solenoid or something else?
 
Hi guys, I recently used a spare set of trans solenoids and wired in two switches, one to lock out the converter and the other to lock out Overdrive. I have the dreaded '05! It works like a charm. I have two switches on the dash. When they are off, truck is in stock mode. Each switch controls a relay that switches the computer wire from the solenoid in the trans, over to my dummy extra solenoid. As long as the computer is grounding a solenoid it seems to be happy! It could easily be modified with 3 way switches and then be able to run forced lock with both.
 

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06RAMCTD said:
Any idea what resistance its looking for? 33ohm? So i need something to proved something on the OFF side of the switch to prevent a code, but what? What size/type of solenoid or something else?
Click to expand...

Yes, you can just buy a replacement solenoid for the TCC or OD and wire it in to the off circuit with a 12 volt supply. It will take the load and provide the correct resistance. That has worked for some. MD500E in particular. ;)

IIRC, its something like a 60 ohm 5 Watt resistor that is needed to match the solenoids. Given voltas and amps there is a calculation that will tell you watts needed to get a specific ohm reading. The problem is the 5 watt resistor is big heat sink and you can't just buy them at Radio Shack so the solenoid ends up being a lot easier.
 
That looks like what I need to do! I would like to do both. Where can I buy the solenoids at? Parts store, Radio Shack?
 
MD500E said:
Hi guys, I recently used a spare set of trans solenoids and wired in two switches, one to lock out the converter and the other to lock out Overdrive. I have the dreaded '05! It works like a charm. I have two switches on the dash. When they are off, truck is in stock mode. Each switch controls a relay that switches the computer wire from the solenoid in the trans, over to my dummy extra solenoid. As long as the computer is grounding a solenoid it seems to be happy! It could easily be modified with 3 way switches and then be able to run forced lock with both.
Click to expand...

Can you explain your wiring? I think I know what's going on to some degree, but a little explanation would help.

I wish you were in Western PA instead of Eastern PA. Thanks for the help!!
 
The solenoids are sold as a set. I think I paid around $75 on ebay. The solenoids in the trans receive a constant 12 volts and the computer simply ground them when it wants them activated. I wired a second set of "dummy" solenoids and feed them 12 volts as well. I then use a relay to switch the wire that activates the real solenoid over to my dummy solenoid. This way the computer is happy as it "sees" the correct load and I am happy because I finally have control! I just built a second setup for another member on here.

here is a link to the solenoids on ebay

46RE/ 47RE/ 48RE LOCK-UP & OVERDRIVE SOLENOID, 2000 On: eBay Motors (item 130299584713 end time Sep-03-10 17:40:59 PDT)
 
I measured the resistance off of the lock up wire to ground, and got 93.3 kOhms. Or should it be measured with the truck running in drive?
 
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