Torquing up ARP's

97singlecab said:
I had to buy a new snap on torque wrench that goes to 150. I have snap on check the calibration of it everytime I do a head gasket job, its been dead on every time. The second time I used it though I did snap the head off it on the last stud I torqued. Snap on warrantied it though no questions asked. I've done six truck with the new torque wrench with no issues.
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I hope those 6 trucks didn't have 6.0's in them...or else you may be buying a new/bigger torquewrench soon.
 
I'm already running in 32*F weather here...and it's now winter fuel. (#1)
Not pulling a trailer anymore, just running a street tune...and yes, with no tune, it still seems to have the same problem, (190's with big nozzles, and a re-flashed ficm from Eric...with a 64/70)
Anything else....I have the coolant return lines...
 
PSDPlayer said:
I mean what other "performance" modifications have you done?
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Here are some pictures..
Cunningham rods, Ceramic coated pistons, coolant return, chromoly pushrods, EGR delete, Wrapped exhaust, FS-2500, fuel mods, etc...
 
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Extended Power said:
Seemed like a good thing to try at the time...made sense...get rid of the "Steam" at the top of the heads, and let coolant in...
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There is steam in the tops of my heads?

Let me get this straight. You overlooked the larger water pump, but decided to shorten the dwell time and give the coolant less time in the head with a short cut out?
 
I gave the high spots a way to "Purge" the air, if any...out.
In the begining, I was using "Evans" coolant. It started to corode the EGR fittings, (Brass), so I changed to regular coolant.

Krist man, kick a guy when he needs help...:kick:
If your just gonna hack-up my mods, either give some advise, or move on.
I'm not here to argue every frick'n mod I did to my truck...just trying to figure out what it's doing, and how to fix it.
Right now, changing the pump ain't gonna fix my problem...and like you have said many times before..."Why keep throwing parts at it?"
With everything I have done to the engine, running 190's should not give me the problem I have now.
 
PSDPlayer said:
There is steam in the tops of my heads?

Let me get this straight. You overlooked the larger water pump, but decided to shorten the dwell time and give the coolant less time in the head with a short cut out?
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The restriction holes in the head gaskets will only flow so much...
 
Here is some adivce. You have altered the flow of coolant and now the out side edges of the head have a bigger flow path. You didn't do jack **** to help out the center cylinders.

You chose not to improve the pump at the heart of the system, which would affect both the water/coolant side of things but also the oil cooling side as well since moving heat saturated coolant from the engine to the radiator to dump heat.

I question your mod because you gave me the marketing reason why you installed the part, but are now trying to figure out why what you have done, isn't working.

You noticed the holes in the gasket, I'm surprised you didn't drill them out larger.

Since your heater is also having problems working at idle and only gets warm when the engine speed is raised... Think about it... Rev the engine. Turns the pump faster. If your heater core doesn't have crap in it, then you don't have enough flow to it. If it does have crap in it, maybe there is crap in other heat exchangers in the system.
 
Extended Power said:
Krist man, kick a guy when he needs help...:kick:
If your just gonna hack-up my mods, either give some advise, or move on.
I'm not here to argue every frick'n mod I did to my truck...just trying to figure out what it's doing, and how to fix it.
Right now, changing the pump ain't gonna fix my problem...and like you have said many times before..."Why keep throwing parts at it?"
With everything I have done to the engine, running 190's should not give me the problem I have now.
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I don't think he's trying to kick you while you're down. He's just trying to understand why you done what you've done. The more information you can give the less likely you'll be tearing apart your truck again to fix another problem caused from fixing the original problem.
 
Extended Power said:
I seem to have a slight problem with coolant right now.
Not sure why, cuz I don't have an EGR, I have ARP studs, machined block, and heads....and the heads are '06's with hardened seats in them...Thinking the studs have stretched, and need to be re-torqued or something, cuz I have pushed the engine waaaay harden then I am now, without any problems.

Thinking of doing something totally stupid....:evil

Hey Chad....you listening?:poke:
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I am now :Cheer:
 
My question would be how is the new return lines run to? I would guess that they would have to go back to the overflow bottle? Or directly to the Radiator? If that is the case then wouldn't these return lines be bypassing the thermostat? When the Thermostat is closed then the water pump is really only pumping the coolant through the engine and the heater core in a stock setup, once the coolant gets hot enough the stat opens and it dumps off some hot coolant in bring in some cold to take its place. If these lines are not thermostated the whole system should be running cooler.

Then to agree with Doug some, with these lines not running through the stat, which is a restriction, you would create a path with a lot less resistance. The pump pumps coolant in three directions, each half of the engine and then to the heater core. If the engine restriction drops then they become less restrictive then the heater core loop and flow to that loop drops dramatically.

So, I think the coolant by-pass lines do two things that are not conducive to making heat in the cab of your truck.

Jeremy
 
PSDPlayer said:
Here is some adivce. You have altered the flow of coolant and now the out side edges of the head have a bigger flow path. You didn't do jack **** to help out the center cylinders.
I thought the whole purpose was to just "Purge" the air out of the system.
You chose not to improve the pump at the heart of the system, which would affect both the water/coolant side of things but also the oil cooling side as well since moving heat saturated coolant from the engine to the radiator to dump heat.
What has to be changed to run the newer pump? The whole front cover, and pump?
I question your mod because you gave me the marketing reason why you installed the part, but are now trying to figure out why what you have done, isn't working.
I'm trying to figure out why/how a perfectly flat block and heads, with ARP studs, and new gaskets, new oil cooler, new coolant filter, etc, is starting to "leak"...when I really haven't turned up the wick yet.

You noticed the holes in the gasket, I'm surprised you didn't drill them out larger.
I honestly thought about it at the time. The '03 heads were cracked like nothing I ever saw before, so I was trying to make everything better when it was out...mustn't of been on-line the day everyone found out the newer pumps moved more volume.:bang

Since your heater is also having problems working at idle and only gets warm when the engine speed is raised... Think about it... Rev the engine. Turns the pump faster. If your heater core doesn't have crap in it, then you don't have enough flow to it. If it does have crap in it, maybe there is crap in other heat exchangers in the system.
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Excellent point...since the rebuild, it has had trouble in the winter months keeping the cab warm when it's -40* outside.

So, what would you reccommend Doug?

I can't pull the heads off because of the studs now, and I'm pretty sure something else wouldd go for $h!t if I tried to double nut them and pull them out.

May have to take it to the stealership and have them lift the cab for me...:bang
 
lubeowner said:
My question would be how is the new return lines run to? I would guess that they would have to go back to the overflow bottle? Or directly to the Radiator? If that is the case then wouldn't these return lines be bypassing the thermostat? When the Thermostat is closed then the water pump is really only pumping the coolant through the engine and the heater core in a stock setup, once the coolant gets hot enough the stat opens and it dumps off some hot coolant in bring in some cold to take its place. If these lines are not thermostated the whole system should be running cooler.

Then to agree with Doug some, with these lines not running through the stat, which is a restriction, you would create a path with a lot less resistance. The pump pumps coolant in three directions, each half of the engine and then to the heater core. If the engine restriction drops then they become less restrictive then the heater core loop and flow to that loop drops dramatically.

So, I think the coolant by-pass lines do two things that are not conducive to making heat in the cab of your truck.

Jeremy
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If you look at this picture, you can see where they are tied into just below the themostat housing.
 
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I should try to video it, and post back....maybe it's something totally different causing the problem...
 
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