Truck was idling then died

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Ram12vcummins

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Well my truck was idling warming up to go visit friends and it died. Went to go start it up an wouldn't start. So got it started with either but would only run with wife's foot on pedal and rough. Cracked injectors and had some fuel come out. If tried to rev truck up it would smoke white. Cracked feed line to pump an fuel come there as well. Recently installed 4gsk and ground fuel plate. No fuel gauge installed yet. I've got an electric one and just picked up fittings and a needle valve yesterday.
 
Governor springs intact. Fuel filter has fuel. Cracked bleeder on top of filter housing an tried to prime lift pump an no fuel would come..... Is there something from the tank or in the tank that could have disconnected. Fuel gauge shows 1/4 tank
 
Could be your gauge is off or bad lift pump. Shake the truck and see if you can hear fuel or run and grab couple gallons to put it in it.
 
Dumped in 5 gallons an gauge come to 1/2 tank so has fuel. Do lift pumps just say I'm out like that?
 
They can just give up the ghost like that.

96 3500 5x018 7mm dvs 62fmw
 
I would suggest adding more fuel (at least another 10 gallons), crack the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter and prime the lift pump until fuel comes out. Tighten it up and pump a bit more then try starting it without the ether. You will have to give it throttle while cranking to start and to keep it running.

If this works don't trust your fuel gauge anymore.
 
I had a lift pump off an old motor. Just swapped an tried to prime with no filter on an had fuel in 10 pushes. The suspect lift pump did make a bit of suction when i manually compressed the push rod but none on the manual prime.

I'm going to install my fuel pressure sensor now. Am I ok to install it in the fuel filter housing rather than drilling an tapping my banjo bolt on the pump? I would think it should supply the same reading?
 
I haven't started the truck yet but I have the intake horn an fuel shutdown solenoid removed for easier access.
 
If youre gonna put in an electrical sender youll want a snubber in front of it, to limit the flow and reduce the stress on the sender.
You can always route the pump right into a jerrycan full of diesel, to eliminate the fuel lines and pickup assy, to help nail down where a leak might be.

I run a sight glass ahead of the lift pump so I can see when theres air in the lines. Think I got it off grainger or mcmaster.
 
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Well the other used lift pump I have got it running. Then I noticed a gasket on the ground off the left pump. So now I have to tear the lines off again an remove filter to get at lift pump. I think I'll leave truck till I can just get a new lift pump so I'm not doing this again in a couple months.

Are the cummins ones the one I should buy? Or eBay?

I've got a 1/8" needle valve to use as a snubber. Hoping it works. The bleed screw is too small so I guess I'll have to drill an tap the banjo bolt on the pump feed.
 
the fuel heaters develop leaks after awhile. Probably best to bypass it unless youre somewhere that gets real cold.
 
I'm in Canada. -30 Celsius in winter or colder. I pulled strainer and cleaned it. Had metal filings and rust in it. How does the filings get in there? When i unplugged the heater there was fuel in the plugin so I'm guessing it's already leaking. I removed it for now and I guess I might have to buy a new one come winter.

On another note I got a new lift pump from cummins. It was the most annoying Effin thing to install in my life. I had the used one on the other day in about 20 mins. This new one took me 2 hours to get the bolts to start and the planets to align.

Idle is at 26 lbs and 3000 rpm no load is 42 lbs. no road tests yet. https://vimeo.com/166897712
 
depending on what you want to do with it, you can keep the stock heater setup and rebuild it so it holds vacuum, or bypass it in favor of a different remote filter with a heated element. The Racor 490 has an optional WIF kit and heater element for 12vdc. Thats what I wound up using, but I need to replumb it all so theres a strainer on the suction side with sediment, WIF and water drain, and a good spin-on type on the pressure side. Not good to run much filtration on the suction side the extra vacuum tends to pull air out of the fuel and maybe cavitate.
 
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