truck wont start! (did a search)

BIG JUICE

BIG JUICE

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Dec 17, 2006
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truck ran fine all day monday, got to moms house hung out for a couple hours, go to leave and truck cranks but no start. put tune back to stock pull icp plug on valve cover and still wont crank! pump is making noise, sounds to me that the injectors are buzzing also!? what else can i check before i have to pay out the ass for a semi wrecker to get to dealer? hasnt acted up and just had new short block 5k miles ago, replaced icp sensor and plug at that time so im figuring that had nothing to do with it, but had to try. any ideas guys?
 
sounds to me that the dummy plug o-rings have failed. when they do fail the engine will crank and will not restart until the oil cools off. but those o rings are on each oil rail. and it also could be the stc fitting on the back side of the high pressure oil pump.


did you notice if the oil pressure gauge on the instrument panel moved when cranking??
 
i dont think my engine has the snap fitting on hpop? its a 04 motor? didnt notice oil gauge, and have no codes and will not start and its cooled off plenty. its 80 degrees outside so I'm not thinking hot or cold issue
 
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i would think when they put the short block in they would have changed the fitting on the pump. the next thing is when cranking check to see if the oil gauge moves like it should. if it doesnt then that means you have a low side oil pressure problem.
 
lol ok sounds good. hey if you need to call me to talk me about this you can. my cell is 859 612 9631. 6.0l diesels is what i do all day every day.
 
The gauge on the dash won't move instantly. Give it a some time to build pressure. (just an fyi, it is an on or off gauge)
 
brother just checked oil gauge and it comes up while engine cranks, what else can it be?
 
whats weird is that truck ran strong all day then just wont freaking start back up?!?!?
 
its gotta be a high pressure oil leak. since the gauge does come up that means you have low base oil pressure. and really the only thing left is a major leak in the high pressure system
 
Your IPR screen probably has a hole in it. I see it all the time, it's a BIOTCH to get to also. Keep us posted. Gary
 
and if your ipr has a hole in the screen your next question would be how did the hole get there and what caused it?
 
how can i test ficm to make sure its not that? voltage on dc with multimeter across what wires?
 
..Is your tach moving when you crank the engine? If not, you probably got a dead camshaft sensor. unscrew the ICP sensor in the passenger valve cover and connect a gauge that goes up to at least 3000 psi and crank the engine. You should see at least 500 psi while cranking engine.

No codes eh? I guess your glow plugs are heating up then... Did you unscrew the engine/secondary fuel filter cap and turn key on and verify fuel delivery?

You can check the FICM voltage output to the injectors as well with a meter, if you feel like going that far....

Also, disconnect the electric connector to cooling fan at fan shroud on top to the center right alittle and try to start it...sometimes they short out, cutting B+ voltage to the PCM.

Just some thoughts... (been there, done that)
 
my friend just went through this his 04 6.0 wouldn't start one day then would start the next and it didn't matter if it was hot or cold, no codes or cel lights, everyone suggested an oil problem. he bought an ipr and checked for oil leaks nothing the only thing left was the hpop. he spent the $350 on auto enginuity and found that the cam position sensor failed $50 for a new sensor that was 3 or 4 months ago. i would strongly suggest getting a scan tool or find someone who does. the 6.0 has a sensor on the cam and the crank for rpms so if one fails while driving it won't shut off (7.3 safety recall) but both are needed to start.
 
BIG JUICE said:
how can i test ficm to make sure its not that? voltage on dc with multimeter across what wires?
Click to expand...

Remove the intake tube going from the filter to the Turbo inlet. Remove the 2screws to the coolant degas tank and move the degas tank to the right. Remove the 4 - 10mm nuts that secure the FICM to the bracket on top of the drivers side valve cover. Pull the FICM out enough to get to the top of the FICM where there is a small plate fastened by two torx head screws. Remove the cover and you will see 4 screws, left to right. Take a multimeter and set it to DC volts and connect the black test lead to ground and very carfully without shorting the red test lead to the FICM housing, hold it to the farthest RIGHT screw and have someone turn the key on and check the voltage: should be around 48 volts. Then have someone crank over the engine and watch the voltage output: Should still remain aroung 48 volts or so. If not, FICM may be dead or the FICM relay in the fuse box on the drivers side fenderwell may be fried.
 
Think would they have replaced the cam and crank sensor when they put a new shortblock in? i have a feeling it may be ficm so im gonna check other stuff thats cheaper than the deductable and then just have dealer fix it if its ficm. warranty will be up soon so maybe i should be looking into that autoeginutity(sp?) software. is there anybody who sells it cheap or manufacturer only??
 
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