Truckers, lets see your rigs!

BRE said:
That’s gonna be the 78/1.32
I’m afraid this one’s gonna need at least a 1.45 housing.
I think an 80/1.32 is over reaching.


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Correct. I guess it can also depend on the rpms you are running.

My brothers with that turbo did right at 750 flywheel. His torque was over 2400. I can't remeber how much over.

Edit: 2445 ftlbs @1302rpm
 
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Cowboys4Christ said:
Correct. I guess it can also depend on the rpms you are running.

My brothers with that turbo did right at 750 flywheel. His torque was over 2400. I can't remeber how much over.

Edit: 2445 ftlbs @1302rpm
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Lower compression mechanicals spool chargers way different.
I don’t pull mine under 1500, and will turn it to 1900 if needed. Typically 17-1800 though


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BRE said:
Lower compression mechanicals spool chargers way different.
I don’t pull mine under 1500, and will turn it to 1900 if needed. Typically 17-1800 though


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I understand. You would be better off with the bigger housing I am sure. Even the 96/88 turbine wheel would help flow more. Your current turbo is around, 91/82 turbine wheel? But as you said, you would be better off with the 1.45 housing.

I would like to pickup a older mechanical cat. What year 3406B is the best? No electronics.

Your RPM range is better than my turned up 400 Big Cam. These things like RPMs.
 
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We've had good luck widening the diffuser in a 1.32AR housing for the 88/96mm turbine, similar drive pressure to the 1.45AR but spools more like the smaller housing.
 
Put the timing light on it today.
Appears we have an advance issue for some reason according to the light anyhow.

Base timing is correct and pinned correct, but was only showing a total of about 4 degrees advance. Gonna have to dig into that.
 
BRE said:
Put the timing light on it today.
Appears we have an advance issue for some reason according to the light anyhow.

Base timing is correct and pinned correct, but was only showing a total of about 4 degrees advance. Gonna have to dig into that.
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Which adapter are you using?

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BRE said:
Mac


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That's the same one I have I bet. Id really like to compare to a real cat timing meter someday. It seems to read pretty consistently

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BRE said:
Also does anyone happen to know where the 177148 turbo goes out of its map?

Can’t seem to locate a map for it. Leaving the gate intact on mine, it gets hotter than I’m comfortable with, I blocked it off and have been driving it by the boost gauge. Cooled it way down, but it’ll send that little 75 to the moon.


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Same compressor as a 171702, but the cat cover flows better.

The truck is likely turned up beyond what is reasonably workable for a 7fb if a 177148 wont cool it down.
 
Cowboys4Christ said:
Here's a good turbo part number. This is what we put on my brothers truck. 14969880000

It is a little on the small side for his truck, lights hard and fast though!
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A b model doesn't need that much compressor, nor does it need the 1.32 housing.
 
BRE said:
Put the timing light on it today.
Appears we have an advance issue for some reason according to the light anyhow.

Base timing is correct and pinned correct, but was only showing a total of about 4 degrees advance. Gonna have to dig into that.
Click to expand...

The lack of advance is why its getting hot, pull the advance cover and see if it has the little set screw in the center of the larger screw.
 
Well I’ve made some progress on kinda diagnosing things.
Jack Wilson on OKC set the timing and according to his notes, from what I know, he had the timing set really nice.
However like I said, with our timing light anyhow, it was showing it to not be advancing.
I hooked the wastegate back up, but I shimmed the actuator out a touch. I’m seeing 31-32 lbs max, and it keeps it cool. I’ve seen max 950 and that’s on longer pulls working it pretty hard.
The smoke trailing has to go, and obviously I think when the timing gets fixed, it’ll help that and the temps even more. Can’t help but think it’ll run a noticeable amount different too.

Cody is it a possibility that the stop screw worked it’s way in, if he left it in play?


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I wonder if the aneroid has a blown diaphragm? That will cause the smoke you're seeing.

Sorry, in Cat speak it's air fuel ratio valve not aneroid.
 
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Unless my thinking is incorrect, that would just limit my fuel. Wouldn’t it?

It only trails smoke under power. It does haze a little at idle but that doesn’t bother me as much.
 
BRE said:
Unless my thinking is incorrect, that would just limit my fuel. Wouldn’t it?

It only trails smoke under power. It does haze a little at idle but that doesn’t bother me as much.
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That is true, but I've seen them get stuck on the opposite spectrum causing over fueling and smoke. Easy enough to inspect it.
 
BRE said:
Well I’ve made some progress on kinda diagnosing things.
Jack Wilson on OKC set the timing and according to his notes, from what I know, he had the timing set really nice.
However like I said, with our timing light anyhow, it was showing it to not be advancing.
I hooked the wastegate back up, but I shimmed the actuator out a touch. I’m seeing 31-32 lbs max, and it keeps it cool. I’ve seen max 950 and that’s on longer pulls working it pretty hard.
The smoke trailing has to go, and obviously I think when the timing gets fixed, it’ll help that and the temps even more. Can’t help but think it’ll run a noticeable amount different too.

Cody is it a possibility that the stop screw worked it’s way in, if he left it in play?


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If stop screw is in there Id pull it, its not really needed.

Then check your timing again.
 
BRE said:
Well I’ve made some progress on kinda diagnosing things.
Jack Wilson on OKC set the timing and according to his notes, from what I know, he had the timing set really nice.
However like I said, with our timing light anyhow, it was showing it to not be advancing.
I hooked the wastegate back up, but I shimmed the actuator out a touch. I’m seeing 31-32 lbs max, and it keeps it cool. I’ve seen max 950 and that’s on longer pulls working it pretty hard.
The smoke trailing has to go, and obviously I think when the timing gets fixed, it’ll help that and the temps even more. Can’t help but think it’ll run a noticeable amount different too.

Cody is it a possibility that the stop screw worked it’s way in, if he left it in play?


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Did he do anything to the carrier? I wonder if it could be slipping and not allowing it to advance, though that is usually more sporadic
 
SmokinCAT said:
Nope, not at all, so many people think a B/C makes these huge power numbers when in all reality what people think is a good running B is probably less than 600 to the tires.
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Gotcha, thank you for for educating me. I believe 600 to the ground in a B would be a good running B.
 
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