Truckers, lets see your rigs!

Leiffi said:
Any of you high hp gurus have used those 13mm injectors for Cats and Detroits ? Are they only good for pulling or 1/4 mile or can they be also used in real working trucks ?
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No, pulling only and why the **** would you need them for anything else?
 
Leiffi said:
Thats because you have never had any torque, or grip, and those clutches are just ****.
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You sir are a mouth breathing idiot, it’s an Eaton Easy Pedal pressure plate which is more than proven itself and Crower style friction disks. Would like to you explain to me what part of that combination is “****”.

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And unlike you I have dyno sheets from an engine I built and I tuned. I don’t have to have a “guy” do my work for me.
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And with over 70,000# on the drive tires when the lifts are up I’m sure “grip” has never been an issue.


Please Leiffi show us some proof of how unbelievable YOUR truck is. Complete with dyno sheets, and pics of your amazing euro engineering and fabrication skills. When I break **** I show you, I’ve spent tens of thousands of dollars trying stuff, some works some fails but I did it. You don’t do **** but run your cock holster and talk about how great euro trucks are which ZERO were built by Finland. Before you start knocking someone else’s work you should show some of yours.
 
Maybe this has discussion has happened here. I might have missed it.

Thoughts on using hydraulic hose for fuel line. Been told it is ok for diesel but not gas, been told it’s ok for both, been told it’s a terrible idea. Thoughts?


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RockinRam96 said:
Maybe this has discussion has happened here. I might have missed it.

Thoughts on using hydraulic hose for fuel line. Been told it is ok for diesel but not gas, been told it’s ok for both, been told it’s a terrible idea. Thoughts?


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Works just expensive, most use stratoflex with reusable ends.
 
Weekend washemup. Ready to go down the dirt roads tomorrow morning.
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About 1150 gets me to 105,500. Had an oopsie yesterday

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Need some "trucker" help for my neighbor's hay truck. He's got a 2003 W900L. He's got very low air and only one speed on the A/C blower motor.

Does anyone have a schematic of the blower motor circuits with the switch and resistors and what-not? I have to see something on paper before I fully grasp it. I need to know how to diagnose it. Any help would be very much appreciated!
 
Probably the resistor, it’s in the duct. Remove the cup holder console. Replacement is like $10.
However most guys don’t have filters on the air intake on the side of the cab so the heater box is ****ed with dirt which turns to concrete. Evaporator and heater core is packed solid. Usually bad resistor means the fan only runs on high.
 
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jfaulkner said:
Probably the resistor, it’s in the duct. Remove the cup holder console. Replacement is like $10.
However most guys don’t have filters on the air intake on the side of the cab so the heater box is ****ed with dirt which turns to concrete. Evaporator and heater core is packed solid. Usually bad resistor means the fan only runs on high.
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Are they still switching grounds on the 03's?

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