turbo replacement for 6.7

RAB 38

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May 8, 2007
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I have a buddy at work with a stock 2007 6.7. He has had many problems with the turbo and at one time it was replaced under warranty. He is now out of warranty and it is having the same problems. The dealer is telling him $2,000 for a new turbo.

Who makes a good aftermarket turbo that will bolt up and not be overkill on a stock programed truck? He is also looking at a dpf delete kit, who should he be talking to about these two things?

Thanks for the help, I dont know much about the aftermarket world on the 6.7's
 
He can run any aftermarket 3rd gen turbo as long as he runs it with a 5.9 CR manifold I beleive. He running smarty?
 
he will need to get a programmer to clear codes, also until the egr is gone you are going to have reoccuring problems with the stock turbo get rid of the egr/cooler you take alot of heat of the egine as well as stopping soot from clogging the viens on the turbo.
Anyhow to answer your question you can swap turboes ,but your going to need and 3rd gen 5.9 manifold, exhaust wastegate elbow, a couple of plugs (wally at FTE diesel has them) and a t3 gasket, and a 3rd gen turbo of some sort I recommend 66mm or bigger on a 6.7 although a 62 or 64 will work ,but there is really no sense in doing it until you get rid of the egr all its doing is putting soot right back into the motor you will see when you pull the system. anyhow thats my .02
 
Everyone seems to think you need to go huge on the compressor for a 6.7 the restriction becomes the exhaust side a 66/71/14 will not move any more exhaust gas than a 62/71/14, the turbine side is where the magic happens and a 6.7 needs to be able to breath more exhaust. That being said if you go to a big exhaust wheel and a big turbine you are going to sacrifice on the bottom end. As far as a replacement turbo in stock form minus the emissions stuff, I would look at one of the hybrid VGT turbos you can keep your exhaust brake and still make respectable power (500-550) I think II makes one as well as a few others I believe glacier diesel is working on one. IMHO unless you want more than 550 hp you should stay VGT. The EGR will kill any turbo remember it is still soot the second time through and it gets a second chance to clog up the turbo on the way out, don't believe me go take off a DPF and leave the EGR functional and look at the crap that gets exhausted, it is smokier than a 600 hp p-pump.
 
don't believe me go take off a DPF and leave the EGR functional and look at the crap that gets exhausted, it is smokier than a 600 hp p-pump.

Its True, there was a 2 month delay between my DPF Delete, and my EGR delete, It Smoked Like a freight train, and when i pulled off the intake horn to install the EGR delete, the soot came off in SHEETS.
 
66/74 seem to be the turbo's 6.7's like. There is a guy around me running a silver bullet on his. Then again they flow a lot of air. Guy's driving with S400's on them. With stock stick's making good numbers.
 
Thanks for the help I think the upgraded vgt sound the best since he is not going to go big. I'll do some research on the vgt's and see if that is something he will want to do.
 
If he is only wanting to swap turbo's? I say 66/71/14, if he tow's much 64/71/14. I spooled a 66/71 just fine with stock pump and inj. The vgt is ok, but....not so much! You will give yourself more option, if he gets away from the VGT. Hope this helps!

Aron
 
66/74 seem to be the turbo's 6.7's like. There is a guy around me running a silver bullet on his. Then again they flow a lot of air. Guy's driving with S400's on them. With stock stick's making good numbers.

I agree but this is a stock truck no programmer looking for reliability not power, I ran a 64/71/14 it is good to about 540 on a 6.7 and is not that great for towing. My idea of towing is not a boat though, anything 71/14 on a 6.7 is too small for big power unless you want to run an external gate.
 
Right now I'm putting a second gen manifold on. I'm guna run a s468. See how it works
 
How does that spool in terms of rpms?

With the last trans., it would start loading the motor around 1800 rpm's. It would pin my head like I got rearended by a MACK truck! Never dyno'd, but I ran a 11.67@117 in a quarter. Waiting on a 48re with a pcs controller now.

EDIT: I could spool twice as fast as a 5.9 with the same turbo, bigger inj., side mount intake, and a cam. I wouldn't take two 5.9's for my truck, right now!!
 
Thats impressive, gonna put a 66/71/14 with an external wastegate and see how it does with stock sticks and cp3, looking for 600 range. Gotta look for a tranny though.
 
I heard a rumor that Industrial Injection modifies stock 6.7 turbos with larger compressors, you might ask them about that...
 
Yeah, but honestly I am trying to simplify stuff some, variable geometry etc. is more chit to tear up. I am pretty sure the extra liter of displacement should handle a bigger single ok, thinking also of something like 66/71 or 74 with a tight exhaust housing maybe 12? and a big external gate, 14 would probably be better though. comtemplating T4 instead of t3, just wanting to play around some.
 
T-4 I hope the 468 should work very well on a 6.7 they can spool a charger really well

Its a T3 with a T3/T4 adapter from ED. We got it put on there and it runs but has some issues. There is some sort of sensor holding it back on the top end. It will fuel up real fast then back down and is only at wide open throttle. you can crusie it all day no probelm but you just cant get the full power to it without something shutting it down. I am not super familiar with 6.7l but I am trying to help him out. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get rid of this? Will smarty clear it or do we need to find another option?
 
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