U joint shield and ladder bar material

roachie

roachie

Taco Master
Joined
Nov 2, 2007
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I trying to figure out what to make the u-joint shields out of.

Its looking like 6" diameter schedule 40 is the most accesible. Isnt that a little overkill?

Thinking Ill use aluminum in the front shields to offset the weight penatly.

And what size are we using for the double ladder bar setups 1 1/2 sch. 40?
 
You better make sure the pipe is 1/4" for the steel and 3/8" for the aluminum.

I am pritty sure that is standard rules for pulling.
 
i think mine is schedule 80 pipe, and no need to go with aluminum up front. a u joint shield and the mount shouldn't weigh more than 10-15 lbs if you build it right.
 
We used schedule 80 1.5" which had a wall of about .2 if I recall correctly. It broke on one truck, and was flexing badly on another.
 
zstroken, so what size do you use now?

My local parts guy can get DOM pipe in reasonable prices, didn't know what size to use...
 
Goog god, my truck is already overweight! My new traction bar setup is going to be alot longer than my existing bars. I'm already at 7900 lbs with no weights or driveline shields...

I suppose I could power wash the underside of the truck and clean off a couple hundred though LOL
 
wow my ext cab LB is like 7300 with my big arse in it and half a tank. ive actually gotten it down to 7100 before with a bunch of stuff removed and less than 1/4 tank of fuel.
 
I don't get it, seems like a big difference in weight... And mine is a short box...

I do have a homemade gooseneck ball mount welded to the frame rails (1" thick steel, probably 12" wide) that I haven't gotten rid of yet. That's probably 100 lbs or so. Twin turbo setup probably weighs 75 lbs more than a single setup. A couple years ago I put some sound deadener in the back of the cab, but it couldn't amount to a whole lot...

Oh yea, and a 200+ lb buckstop, forgot about that one LOL
 
I can get my 2nd gen 12V under 7000 with no spare, no rear bumper, and no tailgate. About 6900 is my guess.
 
I wonder how much ladder bars made with 2" DOM, 1/2" wall would weigh running from the rear axle to just under the drivers door on my ext cab short box...

What did you use for end links? Tractor 3 pt arms cut in half?
 
They are heavy, I cut the 3rd points in half had a machine shop turn down the DOM and slid the links over and then welded the link to the tubing.
Mine run to just behind the door on my extended cab.
 
No, but they are the 3rd point links, cut them in half, then turn down the OD of the 2" DOM to just slip fit inside the 3rd point link say 3-4" inside. Then weld away. My wife has the digital camera, I might have some at home.
 
Ok, I plan on a double bar setup.

shields: Im thinking aluminum to help with the weight. My truck is a QC shorty so every pound counts. And I plan on over-building them, the aluminum containing a severed drive line is the part that worries me.

I need to know how wide some 1480 joints are.
 
Need some more info on this.

Plate that bolts to the bottom of the rear axle, 1/4" ok? Or would welding 2 together and making it 1/2" be better?

The vertical peices for the links to attach to are 3/8" flat steel.

Ive gotten some Cat.2 3-point arms for the links. They use 1" diameter bolts, bought some Grade8's for that.


And I still need to know the diameter of the 1480 drive shafts.

:thankyou2:
 
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