Use your head not your money..tappets vs.Lifter width

Hamilton Cams

ignorant
Joined
Jun 28, 2007
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Howto sell our products. We rely on information and word of mouth to sell our products. If we screw up we are out of business, We don't have two page ads in every magazine out there so how you like our products makes us or breaks us.

I usually tell it like I see it which has earned me more than a few enemies, but has also earned me business. Usually when I release data, it makes people that have bought sub-par products feel stupid that they were taken by hype marketing and a bunch of thugs in flat bills slinging part based on "just trust us yo" it is perception based " we got all of the ads in the magazines so you know we know what we are doing" Plus "this one guy ran our stuff and he has a bad-ass truck eh".

I hear a lot of people saying that you must run a 1.5" CR tappet. this is not so!

On some of our grinds the 1.1" 12v tappet is a little too close for comfort in terms of side loading so we require the 1.3" on any of our custom grinds regardless of year. They will also weigh less. The only time when this is not the case is when you are running a 1.250" 6.7l cam. using a 1.3" tappet is too close, run the 1.5"

In all other cases using our cam the 1.3" is sufficient and weighs less than the CR tappet. Did I mention it will reduce mass in the valve train. This will help stabilize the valvetrain at higher rpm without additional spring pressure.

Think of a contact patch on a tire a taller tire will give you a little bit more contact patch because it has a larger circumference but mainly to get contact patch or more surface area you need a wider tire. This same thinking applies to cams. We run sharp nose angles to accomplish what we need to do which slightly decreses the contact patch at its narrowest region. What we are trying to accomplish for safety sake is more contact patch. since the 1.3" lobe hangs off of both sides of the cam lobe going wider will not help. YOU NEED A WIDER LOBED CAM. that is the only way to get a wider contact patch, more surface area for an oil film and the ability to run more aggressive ramps and more spring pressure without damaging the lobe.

OUR cams feature a 1.040-1.050" lobe width. compare that with a .711" to .850" for 12v cams and just under .940" to 1" depending on the casting of the 24v(except 6.7)

Why are people paying so much for cams that have narrower lobes, sharp angles due to regrinding with small base circles and exposed softer layer of lobe surface? It is beyond me.

The only other way to protect the lobes more is to have a larger surface area with a harder lobe, less prone to deforming and oil with a better film strength(zinc additive).

Don't keep giving money to people that will not give you specs, they are only masking their own ignorance, and if you buy from them you are showing yours. (yes I have a chip on my shoulder about this)

If they are not willing to discuss any of this then what makes you think their product is any better than the next guys hot cam of the week. Data, specs., and dyno sheets etc. is the only way to quantify how a product compares to another...period. You can't copy a cam by knowing the .050" number and the lift. The excuse of we don't want our cams copied so we don't give specs is insane!

Think of how many of the, I don't give specs out on my pumps, injectors, hx55s, cams, springs, heads, pistons etc. have gone out of business. Wonder why?
Let's keep diesel motorsports moving forward with more power and less smoke, not ignorance

thanks,

the jerk
 
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OUR cams feature a 1.040-1.050" lobe width. compare that with a .711" to .850" for 12v cams and just under .940" to 1" depending on the casting of the 24v(except 6.7)

Why are people paying so much for cams that have narrower lobes, sharp angles due to regrinding with small base circles and exposed softer layer of lobe surface? It is beyond me.

The only other way to protect the lobes more is to have a larger surface area with a harder lobe, less prone to deforming and oil with a better film strength(zinc additive).

Don't keep giving money to people that will not give you specs, they are only masking their own ignorance, and if you buy from them you are showing yours. (yes I have a chip on my shoulder about this)


thanks,

the jerk

Is there any truth to the statement in bold?
 
At the time I wrote that, it was a truthful statement. Since then we went through a period in which our manufacturer was out of cams. We had a chance to buy 300 Cummins surplus blanks which were around .865" lobe width. Now all of the cast cams we have are the wider lobes again. On some of our steel cams they are .870" +/-.
Back in the day the most popular aftermarket cam was .711" to .715", yes this is a truthful statement.

For CR and 24v engines(except 6.7l) MOST OF THE CAMS ARE .940" to 1".
6.7l cams are around 1.240" or so.
Although it is not always 100% sure that you will not be able to wear the cam due to poor oil quality or worn tappets etc. Wider lobes diminish the chance for wear VERY much.
Does this answer your question?


the jerk
 
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At the time I wrote that, it was a truthful statement. Since then we went through a period in which our manufacturer was out of cams. We had a chance to buy 300 Cummins surplus blanks which were around .865" lobe width. Now all of the cast cams we have are the wider lobes again. On some of our steel cams they are .870" +/-.
Back in the day the most popular aftermarket cam was .711" to .715", yes this is a truthful statement.

For CR and 24v engines(except 6.7l) MOST OF THE CAMS ARE .940" to 1".
6.7l cams are around 1.240" or so.
Although it is not always 100% sure that you will not be able to wear the cam due to poor oil quality or worn tappets etc. Wider lobes diminish the chance for wear VERY much.
Does this answer your question?


the jerk

Why would you use a narrower lobe on a steel cam with a very aggressive profile? Thanks
 
The main reeason we went with the lobe width/placement that we have is to be able to clear all of the oddball stroke and rod combinations that people are running. We have not seen any issues with wear or rod/cam clearance, so as of now I will hold with this design.

If there is a desire in the aftermarket, I will make a cam with any lobe width you want. What would you be looking for?

Zach
 
The main reeason we went with the lobe width/placement that we have is to be able to clear all of the oddball stroke and rod combinations that people are running. We have not seen any issues with wear or rod/cam clearance, so as of now I will hold with this design.

If there is a desire in the aftermarket, I will make a cam with any lobe width you want. What would you be looking for?

Zach

Well the cam that I took out of my engine, which was your cast cam had some wear on it in the matter of 300 mile.. You blamed that on lobe width then, and now I have a steel cam with a narrower lobe. Makes no sense to me. Thanks
 
I took care of you on that cam, did I not? I have not had any issues with the steel cams and have a lot of them out. At this point, being able to run by working with different rods and strokes is more important than a wider lobe, since it is a steel cam.

The lobes are as wide as they can be and still work. They are working well. Wait until you have a problem with the steel cam to crucify me, not before please. These cams are tough as hell and I will stand behind it if there is an issue.

In the past a steel cam was $1,300-$1500 and they did not always liuve the best. I think you will find this cam better and at an affordable price.
 
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Yes you did take care of me on the cam I am just concerned that the lobes on my steel cam are actually narrower..
 
yes they are narrower, but they are a completely different material. Like I said wait until you run into an issue before you throw me under the bus. You are comparing apples and oranges.
 
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OUR cams feature a 1.040-1.050" lobe width. compare that with a .711" to .850" for 12v cams and just under .940" to 1" depending on the casting of the 24v(except 6.7)

Why are people paying so much for cams that have narrower lobes, sharp angles due to regrinding with small base circles and exposed softer layer of lobe surface? It is beyond me.

The only other way to protect the lobes more is to have a larger surface area with a harder lobe, less prone to deforming and oil with a better film strength(zinc additive).

Don't keep giving money to people that will not give you specs, they are only masking their own ignorance, and if you buy from them you are showing yours. (yes I have a chip on my shoulder about this)



thanks,

the jerk
Not throwin you under the bus just expressing my concerns. The area in bold, I understand that the lobe are harder but more width would be nice.
 
Part of the statement in bold has been adressed. The cam you have is steel and its grain structure is much different than that of a ductile cast iron camshaft. It is a few points harder, but more importantly, it will not flake like a cast cam. What grind did we set you up with?
 
Part of the statement in bold has been adressed. The cam you have is steel and its grain structure is much different than that of a ductile cast iron camshaft. It is a few points harder, but more importantly, it will not flake like a cast cam. What grind did we set you up with?
220/240 but plans have kinda changed since I purchased it. I still have it on the bench contemplating on using it or not.
 
Hey Zach,I got one of your last 188/220 cams last year before you went on back order. My questions is do I need to run a earlier lifter instead of my 06' style, also I got the springs and Molly pushtubes, do I need to run a different lock and retainer other than factory...Thanx
 
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