V10 Out 12V In

S

smokeycummins

New member
Joined
Jul 21, 2008
Messages
74
I finally got a chance to do a Cummins conversion, I pulled the V10 out of my 2001 F350 to put in a 1995 12V with a NV4500 behind it, and the NP273 behind that.
 

Attachments

  • 100_0150_750x562.jpg
    100_0150_750x562.jpg
    91.8 KB · Views: 0
  • 100_0145_422x563.jpg
    100_0145_422x563.jpg
    86.6 KB · Views: 0
  • 100_0144_750x562.jpg
    100_0144_750x562.jpg
    116.9 KB · Views: 0
The tag shows 3.73 gears but the PO told me he swapped gears to compensate for the tires, but he didn't know a whole lot about it.

I notice that if I flip the stock manifold I can clock the stock turbo to make it work but what happens when I put a larger turbo on it. Will everything still fit the same or should I change the manifold now?
Also where can I take my AC line to have fixed? Can I weld the aluminum line with a tig welder and just use the dodge end on the ford lines? Do I still run the factory Ford pressure switch and rewire to run the dodge compressor?
 

Attachments

  • 100_0148_750x562.jpg
    100_0148_750x562.jpg
    68.8 KB · Views: 0
I just 45* flared the lines and the couplers are available at the hardware store.
 
I had GOS performance convert my ac lines. But seems easy enough to just flare them. I kept the Ford pressure switch and I just cut the ford plug off and added a weather pack (from dell city) for the compressor wiring. Don't know about the 2001 or the V10 and the conversion but if you are running the ac through the ford harness the computer must see a tach signal before it will allow the ac to kick on.

Good looking truck by the way.
 
Last edited:
That is going to make for one sweet truck! If you flip the manifold and run the stock turbo, you should be able to put a upgraded turbo on there lately such as any S300 or HX40. Here's a HX40 on a flipped stock dodge manifold for reference.

IMG_0531.jpg
 
In my superduty I have a steedspeed with 45 degree angle on it and I’m running the manifold pointed up. A stock hx 40 downpipe almost clears, but it needs about 2'' of length added in. I have ran 3 different s300 chargers and they fit, but only have about 1'' to 1-1/2'' of clearance before it hits the heater box. Also, one other quick tip is to get a third gen cover on your charger, it makes intercooler piping easier. within the next month I’m going to go to a s400 charger and I’m going to have to flip the manifold down. It looks like it will clear the frame.
 
Looks good! Take a look at my build, almost the same 03 f250,95 12v, nv4500. I flipped the manifold and am now running a charger based off a hx 40. For the ac lines I just took them to a local shop and they made me new lines off the dodge manifold and ford connections.
 
Thanks for the input!
Ryland1503, how do you like the turbo blanket? Ive read through your build a couple of times and always wondered how well they work. Ive also thought about heat wrapping the exhaust manifold, would that show any improvements? It would be easy to do now while its all tore apart. Did you get the clutch master as a one piece unit or did you swap a new master on the existing dodge slave? If so Does it work well? What brand did you get? Are you in the clutch and brake lining business?
 
My cousin had the turbo blanket laying around, so I put it on more for a precautionary measure due to the correlation of the ac/ heater box. My hydraulic system consist of the ford master cylinder, ford line, and the dodge slave cylinder. The master and slave have the same size bore and the system has worked great for close to 30k miles now. One piece of advice, is to put a drop of super glue over the roll pins once they're installed, I had the one on the master wiggle out and popped the line out while driving, no fun. As far as brands, I believe they are both Dorman pieces. Lastly, yes we have a clutch and brake business that has been open since 1938!
 
What do I need to do to get this NP273 transfer case apart? I split the case and pulled the output flanges off but the front output or chain wont let them come apart more than about a half inch. I looked for a snap ring but cant see one unless its behind the seal, do I need to pull the seal to get a snap ring or something?
 
I made a bracket to maintain the Ford alternator.
This has turned out to be a great project and I cant believe how much room there is to work on things under the hood.
What tach adapter works out best for these projects? I was going to order the Destroked one but heard they don't always work. Also is there going to be a way to get the check engine light off?
100_0160_zpsaa759e68.jpg
 
Take the bulb out. There's not much of anything left functioning that will actuate it anyways. And take the water in fuel light out while your at it, mine started flickering the other day.
 
destroked here too. Just make sure you keep the cam sensor wires and crank position sensor wires as far apart as possible. they can get interference from one another and make the tach and air con do some crazy things, like cut out.

For the CEL Just hit it with 5v and it will go away. They are very small LED lights.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top