VGT manual control.

carcrafter22

carcrafter22

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Oct 24, 2007
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So after reading the bigger vgt thread and a post by rochie, I decided to try his idea. I went to grainger this morning and bought a double acting cylinder for $28 and a few fittings. I found a simple needle valve regulator and installed it too.

I am thinking I might be able to incorporate the regulator to tune things with, what do you guys think?




Oh thanks for the idea roachie.
 
Oh I was planning on running an inline 40 micron filter for the drive pressure and use 1/4" stainless tubing. How hot do you think it will be at the cylinder? under 180*?
 
well, I personally don't think it will be as effective as using only drive pressure. I cant see it working that well because in a normal turbo drive increases to 2:1 in higher boost, IF that is true with VGT then the drive will want to close the housing like pictured and further increase drive pressure. I think it will overspeed the charger.

But it may work really well too, I don't know... I think you won't know till you try. Have you read about CSM Diesels drive pressure control method?
 
VGT3.jpg
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Just install that filter before the valve and go for it.

I was planning 1/4" tube for all of it, just run a worm before it gets to the filter/cylinder/ valve.

The valves I thought would work are the flow contorl type.

Good, now you have the headache of making all the crap to try thisLOL
 
I already have all of it and have about $75 in it all. I might buy another control valve for the boost.


the regulator I have is rated for around 185* max, do you guys think that will be a problem running the drive pressure into that?

I think it will be fine since guys are always running nylon tubing to their gauges. I have about 10' of 1/4" tubing coiled around a brake cleaner canister for the drive pressure side.
 
I use boost controllers, basically a ball and seat pop-off valve. Wicked cheap and use hardware store parts :)

Use some copper/stainless/whatever metal tubing to take the heat out of the drive pressure line. Its rather toasty. Then you can go to nylon.

Im curious to how the DA actuator is going to act for you. I thought about doing it, but it is just one more thing to mess with when trying to tune the turbo...
 
ON my HE551V, with boost pressure at the bottom of the cylinder, and regulated air pressure at the top, it takes about 5-10psi more boost to overcome the air pressure...just food for thought.


I'm still tuning on mine...it worked awesome on the bench in testing, but I'm finding out a 5.9L engine only needs about the bottom 1/6th of movement on the sliding collar to keep the turbo at speed...open it too much and she spools at about 3K RPM...and I have dyno graphs to prove that:D On the smaller chargers that shouldn't be as big an issue!

Chris
 
Good info signature600, I will be installing this on a 3.9L though so I will probably have similar results to your setup with the 5.9L and he551v. I am going to play with different initial settings to get the fastest spoolup I can. I am thinking I can just hold it in place till I get around 20-25psi and then slowly start to open it up. I dont know where to stop at with this turbo but I am thinking 35psi max would be fine, guess I will just have to play with it to see what it likes.
 
I can actually lock mine in place, and it spools about as fast, or faster than closing it all the way!


I still can't believe this thing will close far enough to put a load on the engine at idle.
Chris
 
So just for my reference your using one cylinder running boost on one side and run the drive pressure on the other. The seems to run the vgt better?
 
correct, I still dont have the vgt installed on the truck, thats tomorrow so we will see how well it works on the truck.
 
I was thinking this would work better, Close to Roachies Original idea, I by no means am trying to infringe on him.

vgt.jpg
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I think boost would climb fast and prevent drive from opening the housing to quickly.

Eventually, when drive overcomes boost and spring pressure the housing will open.

Then as you let off the throttle quickly, the drive will drop first and the boost and spring will try to close, but only at a regulated rate because it must force drive pressure back out of the cylinder, protecting the turbo from overspeed or barking.

The drive pressure side would need a needle valve regulator of some sort, and you may need a bleed orifice of some sort on the boost side, because of the added spring pressure.
 
The cool thing about it is if it doesnt work you can swap lines in 5 minutes.

Im not really sure which is better.
 
vgt1.jpg


it's still not 100% completed, have a bunch of small things to finish.

but why not use an actuator running off boost pressure? with some tuning it works great.

sig, i'm DEFINATELY interested in how that 551 does as a single! (i'd like to try it in a twins set but would likely need a blow off valve).
 
sooter said:
vgt1.jpg


it's still not 100% completed, have a bunch of small things to finish.

but why not use an actuator running off boost pressure? with some tuning it works great.

sig, i'm DEFINATELY interested in how that 551 does as a single! (i'd like to try it in a twins set but would likely need a blow off valve).
Click to expand...

Nice set-up I need to post mine up too.
 
I added a second regulator so I have a regulator in each port for plenty of adjustment, I can always swap lines around if I dont like how its setup and I probably will anyway just to see how it acts. I have the turbo mounted and am about to go to the store and get a few final pieces.


I still need to get the vgt flange gasket and figure out how to make the down pipe, what are you guys using for the he351ve downpipe?
 
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