UNBROKEN
Ezekiel 25:17
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2006
- Messages
- 17,158
If you have no dampener at all, consider buying at least a little bit for your doors. 25% coverage is great but I'm old school I guess and still do 100%.
Anyway...when you take your door panel off you'll see all the big access holes in there....those holes are death for midbass. If you take some thin sheetmetal cut and formed to the shape of the hole but just larger than the hole, dampen both sides of it for some mass, add some stick on foam weatherstrip then screw it to the door to cover the holes you'll enjoy drastically improved midbass response from whatever driver you're using, cheap to mega expensive it doesn't matter...ALL will benefit from this. This is a 2 hour job tops, and more than worth the effort. While you're in there consider a baffle for your driver...sealed MDF is my preference but cheap cutting boards from the dollar store and a jig saw will get the job done also for just a few bucks. Decoupling the driver from the door is always a wise move.
Anyway...not truck doors but a good shot of what you're trying to accomplish.
The goal....a completely sealed door:
You obviously can't cover the holes for the panel clips...but you'll have some of that foam weatherstrip left over so add that to the door around those holes so it'll make a seal when the panel is on. Use deadener to cover up any small holes left over.
If you really wanna get crazy follow the seealed door with a layer of ensolite closed cell foam (CCF) and then mass loaded vinyl (MLV) over that for the ultimate in sound and vibration dampening.
If you have a couple of hours to kill though...try sealing off the access holes...I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the results.
Anyway...when you take your door panel off you'll see all the big access holes in there....those holes are death for midbass. If you take some thin sheetmetal cut and formed to the shape of the hole but just larger than the hole, dampen both sides of it for some mass, add some stick on foam weatherstrip then screw it to the door to cover the holes you'll enjoy drastically improved midbass response from whatever driver you're using, cheap to mega expensive it doesn't matter...ALL will benefit from this. This is a 2 hour job tops, and more than worth the effort. While you're in there consider a baffle for your driver...sealed MDF is my preference but cheap cutting boards from the dollar store and a jig saw will get the job done also for just a few bucks. Decoupling the driver from the door is always a wise move.
Anyway...not truck doors but a good shot of what you're trying to accomplish.
The goal....a completely sealed door:
You obviously can't cover the holes for the panel clips...but you'll have some of that foam weatherstrip left over so add that to the door around those holes so it'll make a seal when the panel is on. Use deadener to cover up any small holes left over.
If you really wanna get crazy follow the seealed door with a layer of ensolite closed cell foam (CCF) and then mass loaded vinyl (MLV) over that for the ultimate in sound and vibration dampening.
If you have a couple of hours to kill though...try sealing off the access holes...I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the results.