Wastegating a turbine housing

JD3020

New member
Joined
May 12, 2011
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384
Hey guys, looking for some ideas/advice on how to add a wastegate to a turbine housing and make it work. Currently running a D66 on my 7.3 with 250/200's, which is waaaayyyy too small, but i don't have the funds or desire to bump up to a S400 right now. Plans are to add one of the new billet wheels and an IC, as well as some more engine mods and push it to 500hp. Also have the possibility of spraying it some down the road.

Already killed a stock turbo(thrust washer) after 6k miles of running it hard, pulling, and racing and seeing 40+psi all the time. So my goal is to add a wastegate to try and keep this thing alive, want to limit boost to around 35psi, which should have backpressure between 40 and 45psi. I have a couple spare turbo's laying around to work off of, but i don't want to start hacking up a housing just to have it perform poorly/crack/etc..


I've looked at a couple different set-ups already, like Ponci's bolt on gate here. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160178&page=2


And welding on an adapter for a gate like this.

001-9.jpg


002-8.jpg
 
I would add the gate a little closer to the foot so the exhaust velocity doesn't change halfway around the turbine scroll. Probably doesn't make much of a difference with the super fast flow and high pressures through these housings but something to think about if you have the option.

Also I would imagine the weld and differing thermal expansion between the cast iron, weld and steel would be prone to cracking. Guys have welded gates onto the cast exhaust manifold and a considerable amount of them crack after abuse.

Have you considered a gate plate? Not familiar with the V8 pedestals but it might fit.

gate-plates-24.gif
 
The biggest issue is people just weld it and never cool down the housing correctly after modifing it. You must use cast rod, preheat and nibble it before wrapping it in a asbestos blanket. That's the way I have done it for years and never has a issue.
 
The biggest issue is people just weld it and never cool down the housing correctly after modifing it. You must use cast rod, preheat and nibble it before wrapping it in a asbestos blanket. That's the way I have done it for years and never has a issue.

This is the same procedure I do also when welding cast. If you don't have an asbestos blanket handy, you can substitute with a bucket of pre-heated warm sand to slow the cool down after welding.
 
I have seen folks stick it in the oven as well for cool down, a local boy in Missouri, preheated it with a torpedo heater, then used the torpedo heater and sand for cool down.
 
Those gate plates are junk and flow like $hit, they warp constantly or break the welds constantly.


Say no to gate plates
 
I called ED like last year about gate plates...they don't make them anymore.

I made my own for a T6.
 
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