weighted clutch question

ILLINOISRAM

ILLINOISRAM

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Jan 18, 2008
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Last night i went to hook my truck for the first time with the new motor and clutch. I couldnt get the motor wound up enough to even get the sled off the line. I know i need to remove some weights but i was wondering if any body can give me some advice on how many they run and the kick in rpm. I have allready talked to Terry and Kenny but was wanting to hear from some other guys who run the weighted triple and their dealings.


Thanks, Tim
 
I took half of the weights off mine , IMO u could take alot off the way mine felt
 
Thats what im thinking. It was trying to take off at about 3000 rpms. With 40 degrees timing and low compression it just couldnt get the charger spooled enough. I cant remember the actual number of weights but it is about 2in of weight on each side of the finger. Brad ingrahm was there last night and he said that i should have about a 1/2 inch on each side. The new material compound requires less weight right off the bat. Im looking for atleast 4800.
 
Thats the clutch style I had very grabby wears great tho mine are still fine going on 3 seasons
 
Im working on uploading the video but it is pretty short.LOL I tryied to override it alittle but it wasnt working.
 
those things can b tricky if not setup wright , sometimes the fingers arnt long enough and when bolted down they hit the hat (pressure plate) but I think terry gets the new ones from kenny

Also did u cut a hole in the bottom of the bell? like an inspection cover on a auto makes it alot easier to check things and take weight off/on
 
Yes it has Kennys fingers put in it. It also has the bronz inlay on the pp doughnut. Im also want to see how many people have cut holes in their bellhousing to access their weights. I have heard this being done but pics or instuctions would be cool.
 
i used a 4'' hole saw and cut a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing to adjust clutch remove weights etc. Works great and i have plenty of room to work
 
Thats what i was going to use is a 4in holesaw. How far back did you dill the pilot hole or did you just sorta center it and back towards the tranny alittle bit?
 
The edge of the hole is about 3/8'' to a 1/2'' from the front of the bellhousing.
 
Tony R said:
The edge of the hole is about 3/8'' to a 1/2'' from the front of the bellhousing.
Click to expand...

Thank you.:Cheer: That will make it easier to get these weights changed so i can hook it again sat night in rossville il.
 
when i run that clutch i put a mechanical linkage on it but i would only pull 4 weights on each finger if you take to many off it may get perty jerky if i was going to try that we did run about half a season that way but i have seen to many pulled off it didnt work so good
 
Up N Smoke said:
when i run that clutch i put a mechanical linkage on it but i would only pull 4 weights on each finger if you take to many off it may get perty jerky if i was going to try that we did run about half a season that way but i have seen to many pulled off it didnt work so good
Click to expand...

Im gonna drop down to one 1/2 weight on each side of the finger. That is what Brad told me. Kenny said he sends them out with 1in of weights on each side but i might want to drop to 3/4. The clutch feels good, goes into gear as good as my dual disc i just hope my fist attemp at a weighted clutch comes around pretty quick. I dont like wasting hooks.LOL
 
Im not sure on your style clutch (I am only familiar with Haisleys weighted double and tripple disk clutches) but there are ALOT of variables. On my old truck it would start to grab at 1800rpm and by 3000 it was starting to really push my leg back into my hip, at 4000 it was lifting me off the seat.....I was able to hold it to well over 5500rpm (took a bit of practice). Make sure when you push the clutch down, you are pulling your seat up so you foot is flat on the floor with the clutch pedal and your seat is right up tight against the small of your back....then lock your leg down and keep good pressure on it right from the start and you should be able to hold it to at least 5000.

Also, really watch how many weights you pull out....reason being is with these weighted clutches, its centrifical force of the weights that are giving you the pressure to clamp down on the disks. If you remove enough weights so that it doesn't start to clamp down on its own at say 3000rpm (rpm where you feel the clutch pedal working against you)...then when you are pulling and you start really bogging down you are going to get to a point in the rpm/centrifical pressure on the disks that the clutch will actually start to un-clamp its self!!!!! NOT GOOD! (Also of people don't realize this can happen)

With all of these style clutches you deffinatly want to have it grabing as soon as possible and if you have to remove weights from it you want to do one at a time per arm untill you get to a point where you can hold it down at a little higher rpm then you want to leave the line.

I used to practice launching with my truck just for this very reason....try it sometime instead of wasting hooks....if you can hold it durring a launch you will deffinatly be able to hold it with a sled attached to you!

here is a youtube link to one of my launches.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQ87VSEKuYI&feature=fvw

RyanB
 
Thanks Ryan. I wondered about removing too much weight for that reason. I literally ran the motor for about 5 min on the new build, drove around the block and loaded it up to go to the pull. So i didnt have any idea was i was dealing with. Im going to cut the hole in the bellhousing tomarrow and count how many weights are on it. I was in such a hurry to get it ready that i didnt count them. Maybe after sat night i will have a few better vids.

Tim
 
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