welding crank gear to crank?

G

getblown5.9

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at what point is it needed? anything special need to be done?

continuous weld all the way around...or maybe a few tacks to hold it from shearing off the keyway?
 
The helical cut of the crank gear will push it on to the crank unlike the cam gear.
 
GRotman said:
I don't see any reason to weld the crank gear.
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To my knowledge this is a widespread thing, my crank gear was half way sheered through the key way! Which caused my timing to go wacko and stunt my power...... If it would have went the rest of the way I would have obviously had the "valve to piston tango" going on. We will Tig it.
Brandon
 
The Dmax guys have a problem much like this. They replace the pin with a key for more strength holding the gear in place.
 
i welded mine in 3 spots. each side and bottom away from key 1'' - 2'' welds
 
can it be mig'd? if it can, i would like to get this done before i put the rest of the truck back together. I can MIG it on just the front side with the crank in the truck still.
 
getblown5.9 said:
can it be mig'd? if it can, i would like to get this done before i put the rest of the truck back together. I can MIG it on just the front side with the crank in the truck still.
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How many rpms you plan on running??? WOW
 
5000 free rev at the most, about 4200 unless its really loose on the track.
 
thats about same rpm as i ran last year. i welded mine with mig welder
 
97' CTD said:
To my knowledge this is a widespread thing, my crank gear was half way sheered through the key way! Which caused my timing to go wacko and stunt my power...... If it would have went the rest of the way I would have obviously had the "valve to piston tango" going on. We will Tig it.
Brandon
Click to expand...

It is??

Chris
 
Just ground to the gear...so you won't arc across and bearing/bushings and make a sweet mess of your engine.
 
Grounding the gear sounds like very good advise, how do you de-mag afterwards though?
Ryan
 
yes...you can carefully use a torch to heat...use an infared gun to monitor temps.

I personally would just wack it with (3) 1" long 7010 MIG welds.

But the preheat and TIG is more anal.
 
ill have to find someone who is better with a mig than i am...i can do stuff that doesnt have to look pretty but i dont trust myself on this.
 
I would put the gear in the oven and get it 400-450 degrees, slide it on the crank,while its hot dril 2-3 spots evenly spaced around the seam where the gear meets the crank and just plug weld the holes full then sand them down when cool. Let it cool slowly too, don't just dump water on it, lol. That should do the trick TJ and even you could do it :D

Also, I would just drill deep enough to get up on the shank of the bit with a7/16th or so bit, should need to get carried away...
 
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