What about this y block for dual feed?

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NickTF

NickTF

Single turbo turd.
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Well i'm going to go ahead and duel feed my pump with my single air dog 150 and am going to use a y-fuel block to do it. What do you guys think about one of these with the clamps instead of having to buy one with femail threads only and having to buy pushlock fittings to thread in?

Moroso Aluminum Y-Blocks - JEGS

Anyone ever use one of these with 40psi of fuel pressure or so? Considering EFI gas stuff is typically 43psi on up to 58ish in the ls1 world I would imagine these are meant to work at those kind of pressures. Oops, saw that it says carb in the description, do you think it will be ok at the higher psi or should I just get the pushlock fittings?

Yeah I know i'm being cheap but this cruise coming up is killing me:bang

Thanks.
 
i would definatily use push locks and i just used a brass t on mine and its feedin dual pumps
 
When I built my fuel system I just used the typical brass "T" fittings with female threads you can find at any hardware store. They work just fine but don't look as "cool" as the Aeroquip or similar distribution blocks and are WAY cheaper too. We're talking like $2 vs. $20.

The majority of my system is plumbed with push lock type brass barbed fittings too. You can get them at the hardware store right next to the brass "T" fittings.

Yes, I'm one cheap bastard.
 
NickTF said:
Well i'm going to go ahead and duel feed my pump with my single air dog 150 and am going to use a y-fuel block to do it. What do you guys think about one of these with the clamps instead of having to buy one with femail threads only and having to buy pushlock fittings to thread in?

Moroso Aluminum Y-Blocks - JEGS

Anyone ever use one of these with 40psi of fuel pressure or so? Considering EFI gas stuff is typically 43psi on up to 58ish in the ls1 world I would imagine these are meant to work at those kind of pressures. Oops, saw that it says carb in the description, do you think it will be ok at the higher psi or should I just get the pushlock fittings?

Yeah I know i'm being cheap but this cruise coming up is killing me:bang

Thanks.
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I used a NOS fitting. 8an to dual 6an.
 
Well the idea behind the y vs. the t was the more gradual bend between the splitting of fuel into the front and back of the pump. Trust me, the T was first on my mind but it was recommended to me I use a y.

Too small? My supply line is 1/2" and the y block I linked too was 1/2" in to 2 1/2" fittings out.
 
if you go to summit racing and type in fuel blocks they have all kinds of them and there are bigger ones than what you posted
 
But if the supply line I have now is only 1/2" with 1/2" pushlocks in the path why would I want a fuel block with larger then 1/2" pushlocks in the path? Just trying to understand:)
 
Just get a T from the hardware store with 1/2npt threads or whatever. Done and done. Pressure loss will not be as great as one might think.
 
I also used a NOS -8 wye, -8 all three sides to 2 -8 feeds in the pump. I wouldnt trust the reg brass fittings with the pressures we run, exp. on the track. Diesel under a drag slick at full tilt would make for a scary ride, heck I even did away with rad hoses for the same reason.
 
stock600 said:
I also used a NOS -8 wye, -8 all three sides to 2 -8 feeds in the pump. I wouldnt trust the reg brass fittings with the pressures we run, exp. on the track. Diesel under a drag slick at full tilt would make for a scary ride, heck I even did away with rad hoses for the same reason.
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The same brass fittings that you question at fuel pressures of ~40psi see WAY more pressure in other applications with no issues.

Is it wise to use the brass fittings in a high pressure hydraulic application? No, but you shouldn't be using the cheesy aluminum AN race car fittings in those applications either. If you're that concerned about trusting your fittings then I would suggest going with steel fittings meant for hydraulic systems that have to withstand thousands of psi.

Just my opinion.
 
ANY metal fitting can withstand AT LEAST 150psi. 40-60 psi is very low pressure in the fitting world. I have used barbed fittings in a pinch on test rigs and with 2 hose clamps (place the clamps so they tighten from opposite sides to equal the clamping force) they easily hold 250+psi. The hose is always going to be the weak point.
 
mondtster said:
The same brass fittings that you question at fuel pressures of ~40psi see WAY more pressure in other applications with no issues.

Is it wise to use the brass fittings in a high pressure hydraulic application? No, but you shouldn't be using the cheesy aluminum AN race car fittings in those applications either. If you're that concerned about trusting your fittings then I would suggest going with steel fittings meant for hydraulic systems that have to withstand thousands of psi.

Just my opinion.
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Not questioning the brass ability to hold the pressure, it's obvious 40-100psi in those brass fittings is no big deal, it's the holding the hose on the fitting I was refering to. Getting AN push Loc hose over real Push Loc fittings is no joke and they never fail, all the brass fittings in my hardware store have a rounded tit on the end and a hose clamp is needed, now the joint is comprimized and its soley up the the clamp to hold the hose on. All my buddies still use the cheap hardware store brass fittings and hose clamps, and thier the ones with the hoses leaking and blowing off from time to time also. Use what works for you, they both hold the pressure just fine, Ill stick with the cheesy alum. race car parts though, I got both of the starter fittings that come out of the pump in steel just because they had them and they were cheaper.
 
Begle1 said:
Steel rusts, though. Yuckie.
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Your right there, if I had it to do over again Id prob. get both the 18mm and the 14mm x -8 fittings in Alum. just for that reason. Although they appear to maybe have a coating on them, the one 14mm has been there for over a year and has not rust any yet? Gold anidized maybe....
 
stock600 said:
Not questioning the brass ability to hold the pressure, it's obvious 40-100psi in those brass fittings is no big deal, it's the holding the hose on the fitting I was refering to. Getting AN push Loc hose over real Push Loc fittings is no joke and they never fail, all the brass fittings in my hardware store have a rounded tit on the end and a hose clamp is needed, now the joint is comprimized and its soley up the the clamp to hold the hose on. All my buddies still use the cheap hardware store brass fittings and hose clamps, and thier the ones with the hoses leaking and blowing off from time to time also. Use what works for you, they both hold the pressure just fine, Ill stick with the cheesy alum. race car parts though, I got both of the starter fittings that come out of the pump in steel just because they had them and they were cheaper.
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I understand your point now that you cleared it up a bit. The way you wrote/I read your previous post made it sound like you questioned the ability of the fitting to hold that kind of pressure, which is obviously not an issue.

The barbs I get and use are nearly as aggressive as the push lock fittings are. The hose isn't coming off of them.

Begle1 said:
Steel rusts, though. Yuckie.
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You might be surprised. I haven't seen much in the way of rust on steel fittings up here in the rust belt. All the ones I have seen have some sort of plating on them (probably zinc or something similar).
 
Where exactly do you hook up the second supply line? it's not where the schrader valve is, is it?
 
the right place to do it is right behind all the throttle linkage so most of these guys just put in in the front plug

or they put it in the return and return out of the front plug

dont do it

if you cant use a hand throttle and put it in the right place dont do it at all

the front plug and the return meet inside the pump (like ea boss ends 1/4" from one another)

if you put fuel in one its just gonna flow right out the other

jmo

don
 
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