what girdle?

red dodge2

red dodge2

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looking into doing a engine build possibly this winter and am deciding on girdle choices. Im either going to do the gorilla type girdle/ block stiffener plate, or possibly a real girdle which requires machining of the main caps. the block stiffer/gorilla girdle is around $450 in cost and bolts right on with minor stamping of the oil pan, the other girdle is around $1000 plus however much it would be for the machine work. Is it worth it to spend the extra coin on the REAL girdle or would i be ok with just doing the stiffener plate? the main are getting bolted down with 14mm studs if that means anything.
 
If it doesn't require block machine work, it's just there for decoration.
 
I used the one from Randys engine and machine in my 6.7.
 
Ben I highly recommend a "true" girdle like the one Kenny sells. I will get you a price on one as soon as I hear back on the other thing we've been talking about.
 
the ones im looking at are both from haisleys. yes the one does tie into the main studs and doesnt require machining. but the other one does. i think the cheaper one they sell would still be good, its still tieing to the studs and tieing everything together.
 
There have been many posts on various threads about using a girdle but at at what hp and rpm level does one really need a girdle ?

I understand they are "insurance" at any level - but when do they become a mandatory part of ones build?
 
seeker1056 said:
There have been many posts on various threads about using a girdle but at at what hp and rpm level does one really need a girdle ?

I understand they are "insurance" at any level - but when do they become a mandatory part of ones build?
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I don't think they ever do, it would be like saying when is it mandatory to install hi-po valve springs.... well.... never, that is if you like your valves to stay off the tops of your pistons.
 
so do i spend the extra for a true girdle and machine work or do i just settle with the gorilla/ block stiffiner type girdle from haisleys?
 
like mentioned I'd imagine hp level would determine whether it's worth the bucks or not.

I was at 700 to 800hp for several years and ran the crap out of the truck. It didn't have a girdle at all.
 
were shooting for high HP. its sled pulling truck so it will see alot of high rpm.
 
I would do better one also, I think it keeps the bottom end true when under heavy load.
 
ILLINOISRAM said:
Does that include the HAISLEY one that ties into the main studs also. I don't believe it requires maching?
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IMO, yes. If it's a piece of sheetmetal that involves washers and nylock nuts.



On edit, They would probably work well to catch the crank. That way you wouldn't have to dig it out of the track and throw it in the bed of the truck.
 
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If you plan to run cummins or carrillo rods a gorilla style girdle will be fine cause sooner than later you'll be building a new bottom end.

If you want a bottom end that stays together get tool steel rods and girdle.
 
RonA said:
I used the one from Randys engine and machine in my 6.7.
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I believe his are Gorilla Girdles right? Or has he started making others too?

9724VF350 said:
IMO, yes. If it's a piece of sheetmetal that involves washers and nylock nuts.



On edit, They would probably work well to catch the crank. That way you wouldn't have to dig it out of the track and throw it in the bed of the truck.
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WTF are you talking about? A piece of sheet metal? Kenny's girdle is better but the gorilla girdles work too if you are on a budget or don't want to machine the caps. They have worked well in my trucks in the past along with many other people too. Sounds like Ron runs one too.

LReiff said:
If you plan to run cummins or carrillo rods a gorilla style girdle will be fine cause sooner than later you'll be building a new bottom end.

If you want a bottom end that stays together get tool steel rods and girdle.
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:what: You've had problems with Carillo rods coming apart?
 
If you break anything behind the motor and rpms spike, will carillo rods hold the stress?

Everyone I've talked to has said, no way!
 
Gorilla girdle and 12mm arp studs did, fine for our 1500hp last year, however we are pretty low rpm 4000ish max.
 
Do you think though Brett, that with an engine that is tuned with less torque that would require less girdle?
 
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