What power mods should I do?

GAmes said:
Some of us have better things to do than stare at an EGT gauge while towing big trailers up big hills. Some of us would rather spend our money on beer than the wasted fuel that shows up as black smoke. I'm sure there are more reasons than that. Any more questions?
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You learn how to drive and tune the pump right you don't need a plate on a stock pump. I pulled mine adjusted the afc and never had to worry one bit about egt. of course I could blackout the highway, but I could dd and pull trailers with hardly any smoke or egt issues. On a benched pump with more that stock flow I would run one, but on a factory pump no.
 
Chevycummins said:
..... never had to worry one bit about egt. but I could pull trailers with hardly any egt issues.
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So which was it? No worry or hardly any issues?

Could you do it for 10 or 11 hours a day, climbing the Rockies with a 13,000 pound trailer? Hmmmmmmmm?

Chevycummins said:
..... of course I could blackout the highway......hardly any smoke issues.
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Yup, just as I was saying. Thanks for the reinforcement.
 
GAmes said:
So which was it? No worry or hardly any issues?

Could you do it for 10 or 11 hours a day, climbing the Rockies with a 13,000 pound trailer? Hmmmmmmmm?





Yup, just as I was saying. Thanks for the reinforcement.
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Yes I could and dd I never had to worry and towing it was hardly an issue. I have hauled several time with it in my chevy with no intercooler without an issue. Now its in my dodge with the setup in my sign and with several loads around the 16k range I have to get stupid with it to reach over 1200*

Yes if I wanted to be stupid I could black out the highway but that is not what I was trying to say.
 
Chevycummins said:
Yes if I wanted to be stupid I could black out the highway but that is not what I was trying to say.
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LOL, I know what you were trying to say. I choose to use a plate, you don't. I don't pay for your fuel and you don't want to pay for mine.
 
I only use a plate to restrict full rack. Otherwise not needed. Learn the aneroid. It was put there for a reason.
 
thank you all for posting.

I do not want there to be a war or anything but this is exactly the kind of information I was looking for.

I want to hear several different points of view then I can make the most informed decision I can.
 
GAmes said:
LOL, I know what you were trying to say. I choose to use a plate, you don't. I don't pay for your fuel and you don't want to pay for mine.
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Surprisingly I was getting around 18-20 mpg dd it. Towing is another story LOL
 
04fummins said:
thank you all for posting.

I do not want there to be a war or anything but this is exactly the kind of information I was looking for.

I want to hear several different points of view then I can make the most informed decision I can.
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Here is another setup that should be making 400 pretty easily. My dads 05 with a 12 valve in it has a lot of the cheap mods your looking at. 160 pump, 4k's, no plate, racked barrels, .042 dv's, afc modded for full travel and the most possible control over low end smoke, 215 injectors and a he351 turbo. With that we are looking a very solid 350-400hp. Since you have the stock 12 valve turbo it might be harder to make the same power but your goal of 300-350 is conservative and can be had several different ways very easily.

I might have missed this but what lift pump are you running?
 
GAmes said:
Some of us have better things to do than stare at an EGT gauge while towing big trailers up big hills. Some of us would rather spend our money on beer than the wasted fuel that shows up as black smoke. I'm sure there are more reasons than that. Any more questions?
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The AFC, not the fuel plate, is what primarily controls smoke, EGT's, and fuel economy. The only time the plate comes into effect is when you have significant rack travel, causing the AFC arm to contact the plate. The plate simply controls fueling during high boost situations. There is much more to tuning a P7100 than just the fuel plate. If you have your foot to the floor all the time, yes, running a less aggressive plate will burn less fuel and provide lower EGT's. But if you aren't driving like you're trying to burn up your truck, running no plate with a well tuned AFC will provide good results.

And I disagree with you on a stock pump fueling past 2800rpm. I have drove and tuned several P7100 12v's with basic injection pump and wastegate mods. With the stock governor springs, every truck, whether a 160, 175, 180, or 215 pump fell on its face at 2800, with a noticeable decrease in power starting at about 2200rpm and above.
 
EasternAggie said:
T
And I disagree with you on a stock pump fueling past 2800rpm. I have drove and tuned several P7100 12v's with basic injection pump and wastegate mods. With the stock governor springs, every truck, whether a 160, 175, 180, or 215 pump fell on its face at 2800, with a noticeable decrease in power starting at about 2200rpm and above.
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Disagree all you want. I have two pumps that do not comply with your theory. Both have stock springs, one is totally stock. I will be driving the totally stock one to Tulsa on Sunday. Name a place to meet there and you can drive it. I'll bring the dyno sheet from the modded one with me.
 
GAmes said:
Disagree all you want. I have two pumps that do not comply with your theory. Both have stock springs, one is totally stock. I will be driving the totally stock one to Tulsa on Sunday. Name a place to meet there and you can drive it. I'll bring the dyno sheet from the modded one with me.
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I'll disagree all I want! And just to piss in your Cheerios, I run a stock turbo'd, 4k springed, no plate, no afc, and 5x.014 injectors truck... Wait and tow with it! And don't have to watch crap and it doesn't get hot.

No stock governor spring'd truck actually fuels and makes power that far. Sorry Im throwing the bs flag.
 
GAmes said:
Disagree all you want. I have two pumps that do not comply with your theory. Both have stock springs, one is totally stock. I will be driving the totally stock one to Tulsa on Sunday. Name a place to meet there and you can drive it. I'll bring the dyno sheet from the modded one with me.
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Ive seen trucks with tighter than crap springs fuel like that, just not factory un touched springs.
 
LOL @ this thread. A plate is nothing more than a fuel governor when boost is high enough to move the afc back past it. If you run no plate, the afc is solely in control. I have no heavy smoke issues with no plate, but I've tuned my afc. And yes I tow with it.

Stock springs will start to defuel at 2200, unless messed with.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
 
madmikeismad said:
LOL @ this thread. A plate is nothing more than a fuel governor when boost is high enough to move the afc back past it. If you run no plate, the afc is solely in control. I have no heavy smoke issues with no plate, but I've tuned my afc. And yes I tow with it.

Stock springs will start to defuel at 2200, unless messed with.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
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Exactly what I've been saying. You tell 'em Mike! :clap:

GAmes said:
Disagree all you want. I have two pumps that do not comply with your theory. Both have stock springs, one is totally stock. I will be driving the totally stock one to Tulsa on Sunday. Name a place to meet there and you can drive it. I'll bring the dyno sheet from the modded one with me.
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Either it has been modded and you just don't know it or someone at Bosch decided they wanted to make a hopped up pump...

And I'm no longer in Stillwater. Need to update my profile, in Broken Bow now.
 
I said from the start I would be going against the flow. LOL Some of it is just semantics. To me "fall on it's face at 2800" or "stock springs only allow 2600" means that the engine will not accelerate above those RPMs. I know that to be false. The stock springs along with the fuel plate do give me max tq and hp at a lower rpm than the 3k gsk I had, but that is how I like it. I'm not a racer and my working rpms are lower than they would be if I was on the track. If you recall, the OP stated he wanted to set his truck up mainly for towing and get to 300hp. Mine is, so I passed on what I have.

So which one of you subject matter experts is going to disagree with my timing statements?
 
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I run a little against the grain too. I'm making 650 ish (SOTPM is way down from my 800 dyno run) and I do it with a stock plate and 26* of timing.

I wouldn'tever tell someone what they have is wrong, but could be something other than what they think.

Low timing, the right plate, decent injectos and a well tuned AFC sounds like a goal attaining combo.

Epically post by a dumb phone.
 
GAmes said:
I said from the start I would be going against the flow. LOL Some of it is just semantics. To me "fall on it's face at 2800" or "stock springs only allow 2600" means that the engine will not accelerate above those RPMs. I know that to be false. The stock springs along with the fuel plate do give me max tq and hp at a lower rpm than the 3k gsk I had, but that is how I like it. I'm not a racer and my working rpms are lower than they would be if I was on the track. If you recall, the OP stated he wanted to set his truck up mainly for towing and get to 300hp. Mine is, so I passed on what I have.

So which one of you subject matter experts is going to disagree with my timing statements?
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Oh oh oh pick me pick me!!! Your timing is all off!!! You posted at 8:37, that's an odd number. You lose
 
OK so here is what has been done so far. Just trying a few things at a time.

I removed the plate altogether, backed the smoke screw all the way out, rotated the star wheel about 4 turns and moved the afc all the way forward. The truck moves much better now and there is no smoke except the puff at start up. I will be doing a little bit of research and will decide what to tinker with next.

Thanks
 
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