What temp does brass melt at?

stock600

stock600

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Whats others using as exh. manifold hardware? I now have a egt. sensor and backpressor sensor to run to the racepak, Im not sure what this thermo coupler adaptor's made of but it looks like brass? And all I have to come out of the 1/4" hole for the BP sensor is a 1/4"/ 1/8" brass bushing, think it will stand up to the heat? Id love to find these parts in stainless but have'nt yet..
Ryan
 
Best information I found was that brass melts at 940C which comes out to 1724F. Brass should be more than sufficient for the job, the outside of you manifold shouldn't be able to come near that. During some dyno testing awhile back, I had an EGT probe on top of the turbo exhaust housing (under a turbo blanket) and another on top of the blanket, and never seen the under blanket probe climb over 900 degrees with the pyro showing 2000F. Hope that helps.
 
Just found where it says 1652*, so not sure why it would work. Ive seen 2300*+ at the pyro before
 
Turbo Performance said:
Best information I found was that brass melts at 940C which comes out to 1724F. Brass should be more than sufficient for the job, the outside of you manifold shouldn't be able to come near that. During some dyno testing awhile back, I had an EGT probe on top of the turbo exhaust housing (under a turbo blanket) and another on top of the blanket, and never seen the under blanket probe climb over 900 degrees with the pyro showing 2000F. Hope that helps.
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Thanks for the info, I may try it for now just scared of it galling or sticking in the stainless manifold..
 
Only reason I think it will work is your pyro isn't measuring temperature on the fitting outside the manifold. The fitting itself should see less than what your pyro reads. That and the fact that your 2300F doesn't last long. Brass might eventually fail but not immediately. I'd use it and keep an eye on it until you find better stainless fittings.
 
Turbo Performance said:
Only reason I think it will work is your pyro isn't measuring temperature on the fitting outside the manifold. The fitting itself should see less than what your pyro reads. That and the fact that your 2300F doesn't last long. Brass might eventually fail but not immediately. I'd use it and keep an eye on it until you find better stainless fittings.
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I agree and will give it a try thanks.
 
1/8” Tube x 1/4” NPT Male Connector 316 SS

If you must use brass make sure you use nickle based anti-seize. I personally would not put brass into stainless. It will gall and break off in the manifold if you ever try to remove it. The link above is for the fitting for a 1/8" thermocouple. The same place sells bushings and anything else you need. They are great to deal with because they ship flat rate boxes not by weight. I have purchased a few hundred fittings and had shipping only be 15 bucks.
 
Thanks for the site info, I found on there the 1/4" to 1/8" bushing I need and will order it, thanks again. Ryan
 
I have a brass fitting in my exhaust manifold for my pyrometer. I have seen 1820*F in the 1/4 mile at least 15 times and it still threads in and out like it should.

That is brass threaded into cast iron, not stainless.
 
Big Blue24 said:
I have a brass fitting in my exhaust manifold for my pyrometer. I have seen 1820*F in the 1/4 mile at least 15 times and it still threads in and out like it should.

That is brass threaded into cast iron, not stainless.
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For me it would be brass into Stainless. Im running the new HTT solid SS manifold, its a very nice piece. Ive cracked 3 diff. cast iron 3 piece manifolds got tired of that.. Ryan
 
SINNER said:
1/8” Tube x 1/4” NPT Male Connector 316 SS

If you must use brass make sure you use nickle based anti-seize. I personally would not put brass into stainless. It will gall and break off in the manifold if you ever try to remove it. The link above is for the fitting for a 1/8" thermocouple. The same place sells bushings and anything else you need. They are great to deal with because they ship flat rate boxes not by weight. I have purchased a few hundred fittings and had shipping only be 15 bucks.
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SINNER, thanks for the link man, I got a load of SS fittings ordered today for the shop. I had looked locally and couldnt come up with much in stainless hardware and fittings, this place has them all plus thier priced fair and he said they ship reg. mail and it will be here in a day or 2. Thanks again.
Ryan Tucker
 
No problem at all. Those guys have always been great to deal with so I try to point people their way.
 
I've used brass for drive pressure readings and drive to my external gate. Guessing i'm over 2000 degrees at the end of a quarter run. No issues so far. Used them on cast manifolds.
 
NickTF said:
I've used brass for drive pressure readings and drive to my external gate. Guessing i'm over 2000 degrees at the end of a quarter run. No issues so far. Used them on cast manifolds.
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It may have worked fine? But, I knew that if I could find it in stainless that I would purchase them for sure and did. It will go good with all the other stainless on the car
 
We only use 304SS fittings on the engine for durability (work-hardening induced harmonics are a PITA), and high-temp anti-sieze for all hot threads... makes life a lot easier when you're in the pits.

Coated steel is acceptable for use in elevated temperatures which increase the rate of oxidation.

MTBF for brass, aluminum, copper, magnesium & bronze fittings, tubing & brackets is measured in days & weeks.
 
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