What would you do?

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4x4dually

4x4dually

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Should I buy a water/meth kit or put in 12mm APR studs and turn up the boost? Which one would provide me the most for my money and be the safest down the long haul? I'd like the cooling injection, but I think with a heavy trailer, I'd just empty the tank like crazy. I can afford one or the other, so would the 12mm studs allow me to kick the boost up and make more than the 40 or 60 hp that I would gain with the meth?

I can't decide. Please help me out. I feel like I have enough fuel to run more air, but don't really know. Maybe a 3 piece exhaust manifold would help? I have about $500 saved up, what should I blow it on?

And Justin, your vote doesn't count since the studs are yours!
 
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you will get 0-10 hp gain with the studs and increased boost. but the peace of mind is worth it. then in 4-5 months you can add the water/meth, and with the higher boost, you will make more power and still be safe.
 
I would do the studs just to be on the safe side. Then I would send the turbo in to II & get them to upgrade you to a Super Phat shaft 62/80 or send it to High Tech for a Super Stock 62 upgrade. You will cool down your egts by 300* & have alot faster spooling turbo to "beat the heat". This is what I did & now I have no egt problems towing 15k# through the hills of W.V. & PA.
 
I say do the studs that way you won't worry about the headgasket when you up the boost. The piece of mind of having the studs installed is definately worth more than the meth.
 
Head studs are nice piece of mind. If it is possible have the head oring while its off. I think it will only hold up to 60 psi with just the head studs. To bad mine wont fit I would have sold you mine for alote cheaper.
 
Studs & a $15 drive pressure gauge (air compressor gauge from Lowes) for tuning the wastegate.

bnraond.
 
Thanks guys. Studs it is. I found a good deal on a brand new set of ARP 12mm's for $350. Can anyone beat that price? And I can replace them one at a time without pulling the head, right? I also heard there was a trick to getting the ones in the back out? And do I really NEED to bottom tap the holes or can I just put the dang things in and go on? To be honest, I'm a little scrared, I don't do "inside motor" work and this is close!
 
I would think studs would be your only choice, wouldn't recomend run water/meth without a studded head.
 
Has anyone close to me put these things in before? I have a nice shop with a fridge full of beer. If you would work for barley pops I'd gladly pay you! :D
 
4x4dually said:
Thanks guys. Studs it is. I found a good deal on a brand new set of ARP 12mm's for $350. Can anyone beat that price? And I can replace them one at a time without pulling the head, right? I also heard there was a trick to getting the ones in the back out? And do I really NEED to bottom tap the holes or can I just put the dang things in and go on? To be honest, I'm a little scrared, I don't do "inside motor" work and this is close!
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The back bolts have a hole directly above each of them in the firewall to remove the bolts. Running a tap in the holes is a good idea & use the ARP lube religiously as you torque them down. $350 is a good deal. The job isn't hard at all....the rockers are on pedestals & no adjusting required. You just unbolt the pedestal [2 bolts] & remove the assembly. Reinstall each pedestal as a assembly & torque the bolts to 18lbft. Easy.
 
You can get headbolts MUCH tighter than you think
 
Smokem said:
The plugs are for removing the pushrods not headbolts.



You need to relash the valvetrain on reassembly.
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But the studs can be replaced using these holes, right? And relash is no problem.
 
You can tell I ain't never done this before can't you? :bang Thanks for the advice. Do you think a Ford guy like Unbroken can work on a Dodge? He's only about 40 miles from me right now. I may have to draft him and stuff him full of beer! :Cheer:
 
cummins724 said:
I would do the studs just to be on the safe side. Then I would send the turbo in to II & get them to upgrade you to a Super Phat shaft 62/80 or send it to High Tech for a Super Stock 62 upgrade. You will cool down your egts by 300* & have alot faster spooling turbo to "beat the heat". This is what I did & now I have no egt problems towing 15k# through the hills of W.V. & PA.
Click to expand...

Or you could not waste your money screwing around with a 62mm compressor.

300 degrees. :hehe:

If you are going to upgrade your turbo, spend the extra money and do a 64 mm or 66 mm compressor, with a 71mm turbine to prevent surge.
 
MKoth said:
Or you could not waste your money screwing around with a 62mm compressor.

300 degrees. :hehe:

If you are going to upgrade your turbo, spend the extra money and do a 64 mm or 66 mm compressor, with a 71mm turbine to prevent surge.
Click to expand...

Lord, this thing is laggy enough as it is. Remember, this is a daily driver...sled puller wanna be but never will be truck. :hehe:
 
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