Whats wrong? 2-3 shift slip 47RE

Got Smoke?

Got Smoke?

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Oct 8, 2006
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What's hurt in a 47RE if the 2-3 shift slips at anything more than moderate(30%) throttle?
 
ctdiesel99 said:
did you already send it to Lavon??
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I sent him my vb and he did a EXCELLENT job on it...it firmed up every other shift and TC lockup...but somethings hurt on the 2-3 that was there even before I sent him my vb.
 
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Does it slip in 4th (Overdrive)?

If you let it perform the 2-3 shift at 1-10% throttle, then give it more throttle, does it slip?
 
Got Smoke? said:
I sent him my vb and he did a EXCELLENT job on it...it firmed up every other shift and TC lockup...but somethings hurt on the 2-3 that was there even before I sent him my vb.
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should have taken him the whole tranny, money bags. :evil sounds almost like the clutches are burnt up in it, but that's just a stab in the dark. Hope you get it figured out Mark.
 
Front clutch could be worn, which takes longer engagement.
 
Big Blue24 said:
Does it slip and then grab or just slip till you let off?
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slips till I let off if over 30% throttle :(

Big Blue24 said:
Does it slip in 4th (Overdrive)?

If you let it perform the 2-3 shift at 1-10% throttle, then give it more throttle, does it slip?
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Negative on OD slipage.

If you let it perform the 2-3 shift @ less than 30% throttle...once it gets into 3rd gear she's GONE!
1-2
3-4
TC lock up are all EXCELLENT its the 2-3 shift telling me to go fawk myself. :bang

ctdiesel99 said:
should have taken him the whole tranny, money bags. :evil sounds almost like the clutches are burnt up in it, but that's just a stab in the dark. Hope you get it figured out Mark.
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If I had your money I could have afforded to take him the whole truck smartass! :poke: :kick: LOL
 
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RafterN said:
Could be your bands. My did that in 2nd when I trashed my tranny.
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tryblue said:
front band issue. hows the adjustment?
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2nd gear band was adjusted a couple of months ago on one of the first of several times I've dropped the pan in the last 4-5 months.

zstroken said:
Front clutch could be worn, which takes longer engagement.
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On 2-3? I'm not familiar with auto's...I know there is a 2nd gear band that I adjusted...are there clutches for 1st, 2nd, 3rd, & 4th?? :what:

TravisG said:
Your wallet most likely.
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Tell me about it....I cannot afford to do everything I would like to do if the trans has to come out now (refresh/billet input/triple disc)...at best I could only afford the refresh. :mad: :bang
 
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My junk seem to be doing the same exact thing yours is doing, does yours still do the 2nd to 3rd slip with the OD button on the shifter turned off? It seems that everyone I have talked with suspect the front clutch. I dont know how yours started but mine started after a broken output and twisted input shaft repair. Have you put a psi gauge on the right side center port yet?
 
Got Smoke? said:
2nd gear band was adjusted a couple of months ago on one of the first of several times I've dropped the pan in the last 4-5 months.



On 2-3? I'm not familiar with auto's...I know there is a 2nd gear band that I adjusted...are there clutches for 1st, 2nd, 3rd, & 4th?? :what:



Tell me about it....I cannot afford to do everything I would like to do if the trans has to come out now (refresh/billet input/triple disc)...at best I could only afford the refresh. :mad: :bang
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All forward gears use the rear clutch. Reverse, D, and OD use the front clutch.
 
front band is smoked or out of adjustment.could be a bad piston seal in the clutch pack all so.
 
98.5dodge said:
front band is smoked or out of adjustment.could be a bad piston seal in the clutch pack all so.
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I know nothing about automatic transmissions, so Im going to ask. Wouldnt a band or clutch pack seal have an effect on other gears also?
 
zStroken is the only one making sense here, everyone else talking about bands must be new to the site, probably from Cummins Forum, TDR, or DTR.

In my 47re clutch packs upgrade thread, I refer to the 3rd gear clutch as the direct clutch. This is the clutch that sits on the input shaft and the direct clutch drum is wrapped with the 2nd gear band.

It sounds to me like your direct clutch pack is really worn and since it's a shifting clutch, it takes a lot of abuse on the 2-3 shift. This clutch stays engaged in overdrive as well, however, overdrive engages a boost valves that increases line pressure another 20 to 30 psi and that's probably why it doesn't slip in overdrive.

You could probably limp the tranny along by keeping your foot out of it in 3rd gear, but honestly, once the tranny starts slipping regularly, the clutches are probably just about worn down to steel core and as you can imagine, steel to steel with tranny fluid inbetween is prone to slippage.

If you dumped the tranny fluid and went to 100% John Deere Hy-Gard, or Oreilly's Premium Universal Tractor Fluid part number 74209, you can probably beat on the tranny for a few more months before 3rd gear(the direct clutch frictions) will be completely gone.

If you take it easy and run the hydraulic tractor fluid, who knows, the tranny might go on ticking for another 20K miles.
 
Big Blue24 said:
zStroken is the only one making sense here, everyone else talking about bands must be new to the site, probably from Cummins Forum, TDR, or DTR.

In my 47re clutch packs upgrade thread, I refer to the 3rd gear clutch as the direct clutch. This is the clutch that sits on the input shaft and the direct clutch drum is wrapped with the 2nd gear band.

It sounds to me like your direct clutch pack is really worn and since it's a shifting clutch, it takes a lot of abuse on the 2-3 shift. This clutch stays engaged in overdrive as well, however, overdrive engages a boost valves that increases line pressure another 20 to 30 psi and that's probably why it doesn't slip in overdrive.

You could probably limp the tranny along by keeping your foot out of it in 3rd gear, but honestly, once the tranny starts slipping regularly, the clutches are probably just about worn down to steel core and as you can imagine, steel to steel with tranny fluid inbetween is prone to slippage.

If you dumped the tranny fluid and went to 100% John Deere Hy-Gard, or Oreilly's Premium Universal Tractor Fluid part number 74209, you can probably beat on the tranny for a few more months before 3rd gear(the direct clutch frictions) will be completely gone.

If you take it easy and run the hydraulic tractor fluid, who knows, the tranny might go on ticking for another 20K miles.
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That's what I was afraid of.... when it started this whole mess last fall it had synthetic fluid in it. I drained the trans overnight to get as much of it as I could out (no drain bolt on TC). I then refilled it with Dex/Merc III and installed a new filter, and that fixed the problem for a little while. Then it would slip every once in a while on very hard acceleration.

Over the course of several conversations Lavon eventually asked me to send him the VB for a look over. He then tore it apart to see what the previous builder had done, and then made some improvements before sending it back to me. Every other shift now is more firm than before I sent him the VB, however now the 2-3 shift does what I described in my original post.

This sucks here I am elbow deep into a motor build for my puller, and even when I get it back together I won't be able to haul the damn thing because a fawk'n gears slipping. :bang :kick:
 
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Got Smoke? said:
That's what I was afraid of.... when it started this whole mess last fall it had synthetic fluid in it. I drained the trans overnight to get as much of it as I could out (no drain bolt on TC). I then refilled it with Dex/Merc III and installed a new filter, and that fixed the problem for a little while. Then it would slip every once in a while on very hard acceleration.

Over the course of several conversations Lavon eventually asked me to send him the VB for a look over. He then tore it apart to see what the previous builder had done, and then made some improvements before sending it back to me. Every other shift now is more firm than before I sent him the VB, however now the 2-3 shift does what I described in my original post.

This sucks here I am elbow deep into a motor build for my puller, and even when I get it back together I won't be able to haul the damn thing because a fawk'n gears slipping. :bang :kick:
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Drop the trans, pull the pump, loosen the band completely, then pull the first drum you see out. Measure the clutch pack clearance, check to spec. Measure the clutch thickness on them. Find a clutch that is similar in thickness. If the steels look burn replace them also. Measure clutch pack clearance, and reassemble.

Should be less than $100 in parts.
 
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zstroken said:
Drop the trans, pull the pump, loosen the band completely, then pull the first drum you see out. Measure the clutch pack clearance, check to spec. Measure the clutch thickness on them. Find a clutch that is similar in thickness. If the steels look burn replace them also. Measure clutch pack clearance, and reassemble.

Should be less than $100 in parts.
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:eek: That's well within my budget! :bow:

Any speciality tools needed for only going that far into the trans Dan?
 
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