Which Front Axle is Better/Stronger?

Didnt you make a post about this already in the sledpulling section a while ago?


SmokeShow said:
I'm really thinking I'll go with the 2nd gen D60 if I can't find the holy grail 79 Ford D60. :D


C-ya
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Why do you think this is the holy grail? Maybe if your off-roading do to the high pinion, but you wont see any difference sled pulling, and hell it might hurt you do to oil pan-driveshaft clearence.

Also unless your running an aftermarket tcase it wont work unless you flip the axle upside down and run it backwards. :poke:

GM T case's= passenger side pumpkin

Ford front axle=drive side pumpkin
 
bh10 said:
Didnt you make a post about this already in the sledpulling section a while ago?



Why do you think this is the holy grail? Maybe if your off-roading do to the high pinion, but you wont see any difference sled pulling, and hell it might hurt you do to oil pan-driveshaft clearence.

Also unless your running an aftermarket tcase it wont work unless you flip the axle upside down and run it backwards. :poke:

GM T case's= passenger side pumpkin

Ford front axle=drive side pumpkin
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He is using a d-max motor trans and tcase witch puts the front output on the drivers side. The Ford d-60's, as you know, are reverse rotation witch makes them stronger then a standard rotation d-60. On a standard rotation front end the pinion is putting pressure on the heel of the gears. where as a reverse rotation puts the strain on the face of the gears.
 
Yes, but how many people are breaking gears on a dana 60 pulling?

But I guess its an invalid point now, since he needs the drive side drop.
 
so what, in yall's opinion, is the strongest driver's side drop front D60?

You are right though bh10, the HP D60 might not be the best option, that's why I'm asking prior to purchasing something. ;) I just knew it was THE one to have for the SFA conversions and figured it was due to how well it fit the chassis and lined up with the GM driver's side drop xcase, etc. If one w/o the HP would work and give more room between pumpkin and driveshaft and oil pan, I'd be ALL FOR that option over the 78/79 Ford D60 because I don't want the truck lifted in the front at all. Suspension travel is NOT going to be of much concern being a pulling truck so with it full weighted up, I don't care if there's only an inch or so between the axle and pan at full compression.

From what I can tell (been told or read) the ones with king pins are better than the ones with unit bearings. But the real question is how much better??? I've seen PLENTY 2nd gen. dodges that are STOUT and never heard of them crying about unit bearings or for that matter, anything else breaking until rediculous HP levels are achieved. Ones that I like might never reach. So is the difference in the old D60 and the one's in the Dodges worth arguing over?



Does anyone have any dimensions on the 2nd gen dodge axles outside-to-outside of coil springs and inside-to-inside and are they movable - as in enough room beside the pumpkin to move it inward or outward if need be?


Thanks for your help.
 
FWIW, the 92-97 ford D60 was a balljoint axle with serviceable wheel bearings and locking hubs (or vacuum hubs). Still high pinion, still same widths as the 86-91 axles, but you could probably get them cheaper since most guys don't like ball joints.
 
The dodge dana 60 would be fine with 1 piece good axles. Id go with the Ford dana 60 it would be an easier swap IMO because its already a leaf spring axle where a Dodge dana 60 is coil spring and would take more fab work.
 
The old D-60's have 35 spline 1.50" inner axles stock were as the 2nd gen dodge d-60's have 32 spline 1.31 inner axles. Stock to stock, the old style d-60's are stronger!
 
brushpuller said:
The old D-60's have 35 spline 1.50" inner axles stock were as the 2nd gen dodge d-60's have 32 spline 1.31 inner axles. Stock to stock, the old style d-60's are stronger!
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Aren't the 30 splines 1.3, and the 32 splines larger like 1.4 ish?
 
we run a hp dana 60 right on the bumpstops with no clearance issues, and with the driveshaft near perfectly straight there is a lot less strain on the pinion and universals

With factory stock 35 splines and lockout hubs, I am unware of a stronger "stock" axle out there.

You go dodge you need to replace the two piece passenger axle, and if you want 35 spline you have to get new everything - spiders/carrier, axles, and drive hubbs wether carrier style or hub style - anyway you look at it VERY freakin expensive

TheHP60s are not "reverse rotation" as they run in the same direction, but the gears appear cut funny because as stated they ride on the face of the gear rather than the heel and so gained the nickname reverse rotation.
 
zstroken said:
Aren't the 30 splines 1.3, and the 32 splines larger like 1.4 ish?
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Sorry bout that, i should'v proof read that! I ment 30 spline is 1.31 and im not sure on the 32 spline...wasn't they in 2001 and 2002 only??? and the newer AAM is 33 spline...right?
 
I think you meant kingpins vs. ball joioints not unit bearings.

If the truck is going to be a puller The kingpin vs. balljoint is a mute point, Kingpins are a tad stronger, but they are much easier and cheaper to rebuild, so I really would focus your search on kingpins.

Any drive side drop D60 will work and you can switch and swap parts very easy, but one thing to remember is that if you get a d60 from an leaf sprung truck, more than likely one spring perch will be casted into the housing which could cause the axle not to center under the truck.
 
did some digging and looks like the 78/79 and 80-91.5 Ford D60 are all Kingpin and HP and all the same outside width hub to hub on srw trucks. The difference is in the spring perch distance as someone mentioned previously, think it was seeker. The 78/79 are like within a 1/2" of having the same perch distance as a stock GM and the newer ones (80-91.5) are like 4-5" wider wider distance between the perches. That means if all else is the same the perches simply moved equally outward toward the hubs in order to keep the axles centered. So, they should be able to be moved inward 2 or so inches to match up with the gm perch width distance. Only snag will be that the perch on the driver's side won't be cast into the pumpkin and I'll have to figure something about that or let it hang out an extra inch on the driver's side. LOL

So, looks like the 78/79 is, in fact, THE ideal axle for me to look for and might be able to make do with a newer one if I can get the driver's side perch moved inward far enough.


I really appreciate yalls input! Thanks gents!


C-ya
 
One note that needs done to the d-60 is to upgrade to 1 1/2" 35 spline stub shafts! Ebay has good deals on them! I was breakn the stock d-60 stubs with a v6 dodge dakota!
 
there is a company on Evilbay sellin install kits for the dana60 ford axle into just about anything - was $200 for all the perches, u-bolts shock brackets etcetcetc and was also for specific applications as well
 
brushpuller said:
Sorry bout that, i should'v proof read that! I ment 30 spline is 1.31 and im not sure on the 32 spline...wasn't they in 2001 and 2002 only??? and the newer AAM is 33 spline...right?
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I think 94-99 used the smaller, and the 2000-2002 used the 32.

Basically the 30 spline is the same size as D44 axle if I remember correctly.
 
zstroken said:
I think 94-99 used the smaller, and the 2000-2002 used the 32.
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There seems to be some debate about the switchover point, but I have heard most people say '99. I'm fairly certain it happened at the same time as the brake upgrade and ball joint switch.

zstroken said:
Basically the 30 spline is the same size as D44 axle if I remember correctly.
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With a few exceptions, a 30 spline shaft is the same no matter what it is in. The shaft diameter is the same between a 30 spline d44 and a 30 spline d60, but the d60 u-joints are huge compared to the d44.
 
Cant go wrong with the tried and true Dana 60 from a 2nd gen. Matt Williams was still running all stock front end components in his and never had any trouble except for bending a tie rod and of course ring and pinions. Also I think Haisleys "Off Constantly" is still running a beefed up D60. Im not making near the power that some people are but I havent had any issues with mine either in the last 3 seasons of pulling.
 
teddybear said:
Cant go wrong with the tried and true Dana 60 from a 2nd gen. Matt Williams was still running all stock front end components in his and never had any trouble except for bending a tie rod and of course ring and pinions. Also I think Haisleys "Off Constantly" is still running a beefed up D60. Im not making near the power that some people are but I havent had any issues with mine either in the last 3 seasons of pulling.
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Kinda shows that a puller don't put as much load on a front axle as one would think!!!
 
SmokeShow said:
did some digging and looks like the 78/79 and 80-91.5 Ford D60 are all Kingpin and HP and all the same outside width hub to hub on srw trucks. The difference is in the spring perch distance as someone mentioned previously, think it was seeker. The 78/79 are like within a 1/2" of having the same perch distance as a stock GM and the newer ones (80-91.5) are like 4-5" wider wider distance between the perches. That means if all else is the same the perches simply moved equally outward toward the hubs in order to keep the axles centered. So, they should be able to be moved inward 2 or so inches to match up with the gm perch width distance. Only snag will be that the perch on the driver's side won't be cast into the pumpkin and I'll have to figure something about that or let it hang out an extra inch on the driver's side. LOL

So, looks like the 78/79 is, in fact, THE ideal axle for me to look for and might be able to make do with a newer one if I can get the driver's side perch moved inward far enough.


I really appreciate yalls input! Thanks gents!


C-ya
Click to expand...

The 86-97 axles have the perch cast into the pumpkin, the pumpkin is more offset to the driverside than the 78-9 axles. This means your inners are going to be different lengths compared to the 78-9 diffs.
 
brushpuller said:
One note that needs done to the d-60 is to upgrade to 1 1/2" 35 spline stub shafts! Ebay has good deals on them! I was breakn the stock d-60 stubs with a v6 dodge dakota!
Click to expand...

Actually I go w/ 4340 chromo 30spline stubs, tad stronger than regular 35spline stubs, but then you dont get the POS 35spline lock-outs that break very easy, unless you go w/ drive flanges then 35sp. stubs are the way to go.
 
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