Which year D-max is the best for moding

The first year of duramax had an iron block with aluminum heads, this is what caused alot of blown head gaskets? would installing arp head studs fix this problem or will it always be a usual occurance after so many miles?
 
05smoker said:
Twin turbo stock class sled puller?:hehe:
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I've been to a brush pull ot 2 like that:hehe:

DieselMec said:
The first year of duramax had an iron block with aluminum heads, this is what caused alot of blown head gaskets? would installing arp head studs fix this problem or will it always be a usual occurance after so many miles?
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I think they're all that way ???
 
Thats the problem im always hering diffrent things from one person to another, the only real problems it sounds like they have is blown head gaskets and bad injectors
 
All Duramax engine have aluminum heads and an iron block. Don't listen to all the dumbasses who say that is a problem. Duramax head gasket failure isn't any more common than it is on the Cummins or Powerstroke. It was somewhat common on the 01. I don't remember for sure what it was, but for some reason, I want to say it was a head gasket redesign or head bolt torque spec that fixed it.
 
And thats why I like reading the postings that you guys put up it helps alot, knowing what i will need to do or expect when i find a cheap high mile duramax like the one chris has, ill just have to be patient and keep looking. I know one or two guys thought what i said was funny but could i have a twin turbo duramax that still gets good fuel milage and still be able to do sled pulls. I read in the recent issue of diesel power mag that demitri millard was able to get around 37 mpg with his twin turbo 01' duramax and he achived this by running low pressure nitrious; this let him control his turbos spool a little more, and helped with denser cumbustion. I can only make the assumption though that when a guy gets to the point of twin turbos there are other modifications that must take place before the engine can take that extra power, and to ensure that the turbos are actually working correctly?
 
Demitri's DMax is a big step beyond what you are talking about... His engine is a monster!!!
 
DieselMec said:
I know one or two guys thought what i said was funny but could i have a twin turbo duramax that still gets good fuel milage and still be able to do sled pulls . . . I can only make the assumption though that when a guy gets to the point of twin turbos there are other modifications that must take place before the engine can take that extra power, and to ensure that the turbos are actually working correctly?
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What they thought was funny was you saying you were going to put compound turbos on the truck and pull in a stock class. Unless your local sled pulling organization has some really funny rules, there is no way you will be allowed to pull in a stock class with any kind of twin turbo setup. As far as what mods are required to run twins, you can run twins on a totally stock truck if you want to, but if you want to get the most out of them, you will need a built transmission, lift pump, and some sort of tuning (preferably EFILive). There are a lot of guys who run a setup like that and run low 12s/high 11s on an otherwise stock truck.

I wouldn't automatically yank an engine in a high mile truck just because it has high miles. If there is a known problem, go ahead and pull it down, but if the truck is running fine without issues, there is no need to tear into it.
 
All are good, some better than others. Decide what it is you are trying to accomplish and go from there. There is no cheap fast duramax, depending on what you consider fast. The go fast parts cost money. Always do a vin check to see what has been done to the truck, at least that was reported to GM. All LB7's have injectors problems. Listen to Josh, he has been through it all a couple of times. Good luck.
 
what is it that ive read about somthing with the injectors? as in something like hold downs on the lb7, so that fuel or fluid wont leak down into your case??? or something to that degree
 
LB7 model used an injector cup setup, LLY and newer do not. The injector hold issue is a none issue up to about 1000 Hp above that all models need some help but it's all in how you make the power that really effects them (ie: cylinder pressure spikes).
 
ive read up on em a little bit< and it seems that from what ive read the lb7 is overall better if you find one for a good price.... like i said from what ive read, thats why i clicked on this thead to see if any one else had another opinion as far as best overall complete setup
 
LB7s are the most primitive, but in good form are very reliable and potent. There is nothing wrong with the LLY, shes just the red head step child, that can scream just as loud as her big brother LBZ. The LBZ/LMM has more tuneability than any of the previous series, and tho they can crack pistons, we have had LBZs over 730RWHP on stock short blocks. Its to each his own, LB7s dont have EGR or Cats or any real emission standards, while the LLY/LBZ/LMMs do, which is just more cost to shut off, cut off, or reroute. The LBZ/LMMs are also have stronger lower ends, and rotating assemblies than the LB7/LLY.... my .02s
 
nofeelings said:
06 and up 6 speeds can handle a fair amount more than the earlier 5 speeds can.
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Agreed, 5 speeds when properly maintained can take 90-100 hp over stock relatively well. 6 speeds will take 100-140/50 as long as your out of it by the time you hit the 4-5 shift.
 
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