White smoke

T

Tex_cummins_03

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Mar 18, 2010
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Hey guys I'm seeing alot of white smoke coming from the oil fill But none from the blow by any ideas. I tried searching for it before I posted but no luck.
 
Head gasket would be my first guess. Have you run more then 45 psi boost? Fill out the sig so we know what has been done to the truck.
 
Sorry I'll get it filled out. I have not ran that high of boost I have 90 hp
nozzles and a smarty. It's a haze not a puff but I'll double check that in a minute.
 
A little more info of what I checked. It seems to be a haze a little lighter on cold engine. When it was good and hot I pulled the oil cap it had more smoke to it I set the cap on top It didn't blow it off but had pressure to it. I don't appear to be gaining oil. I cut open the oil filter I took off 1k miles ago no shavings I could see. I been leaking oil out from around the cap so I got a new cap same thing. That is when i noticed the smoke. About 2yrs ago give or take I was hauling a load and my fan cut the fan clutch wire my truck over heated got to 245 on water didn't have guages then. The truck was spit and sputter real bad so I killed it. Just thinking maybe that melted a ring.
 
150k. The truck has a little trouble getting started but after bout 5 turnovers it fires up. No white smoke just black.
 
If its the rings then the oil cap will not sit still on there but move around. In my experience when mine broke, there was also oil around the fill cap and dripping from the breater tube . Once the Second ring broke on #5 then the rough idle started. I had 4 broken total . The rings are a weak point on the CR because of how high they sit on the piston. They can be changed in the truck by pulling the head and dropping the pan. A bore scope thru the injector hole won't show you squat unless there is damage to the cylinder wall so the compression test is the only test that will be accurate. I would take the head in to get decked and get the valves gone over, seats, guides, seals.
 
That sounds like mine the cap moves on the filler. And oil is leaking from cap and a little from breather. What's a good estimate on cost of that fix without having to get bored out?
 
The arps are you refering to head studs? I have to pull motor I have a 2wd and it doesn't look like oil pan will drop. So your thinking close to 2k. I'm thinking of downing this truck for bout 2months due pushrods springs and Hamilton cam. I just picked up the A frame from the farm and stuff to pull motor. I didn't get a compression test done it cost 250 here. My work diesel mechanic listened to my truck today and with it in gear sitting it sounds almost like an old propane tractor. He said he heard a little ping coming out the exhaust. I'm guessing something is definately wrong and might as well pull motor and fix it. I sure thank you for your input and if I could buy you a beer I sure would. Thanks alot.
 
Hey I got the head off and the cylinder walls ain't scratched the piston ain't melted. Would a melted ring show or do you have to push piston out to see it. Thanks in advance.
 
The ring wouldn't be melted, but cracked. I had 6 cracked at 140k and still had the crosshatches and on small imperfection in #5 that you couldn't catch with your fingernail. If you got that far why not just pull them and change them since ur most of the way there. The motor mount just needs loosened and jack up one side of the motor, reach in the pan and drop the suction tube and just let it all fall in the pan then shimmy it out. It's not the cleanest job to do but not to bad.
 
Was the gasket leaking by between cylinders? That could also give excessive crankcase pressure.
 
I didn't notice the oil between cylinders but the head slid back while I was trying to hook up the chain hoist to it. I'm doing this by myself. So I don't know if the oil just smeared on the gasket or not. Does the tranny have to be disconnected to raise engine and how far you got to go up to pull oil pan. Thanks in advanced.
 
I left my tranny on and just raised it about 4 inches on the one side. I went a little far and broke my dipstick tube but was due for a new one since the hold down broke putting on the horn. Once you pull the pan these pigs will drip oil for a week so make sure to put something down so you don't have to lay in it putting it back together.
 
Well I was cleaning parts still haven't pulled the pistons but #4 intake rocker arm contact point is broke I looked at the pedistal that the rockers mount to it was cracked and wouldn't let arm go all the way down on the bridge to push the valves down. The push rod isn't bent. I bet that's the problem. Since pushrods isn't bent I wonder if cam has scars on it.
 
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