Wire tuck engine bay

Jesus it sure would be nice to have a shop. I hate living in an apartment, lol I'd gladly buy a little tonka toy just so I could pull my engine and do all of this legit .. It'd be fun for me too lol

I've been fortunate enough to use the girlfriends dads shop at his house. I'm only 24 and don't have my own house yet either. The house I rent with my girlfriend and my buddy and his chick won't quite fit my truck in the garage. It'll fit his RCLB with just barely enough room to get around it. But I try to help her dad around the house and yard as much as I can, and his trucks. So he let me use it. But it's outside right now till the motor is done and ready to install cause I didn't want to leave it in his shop not doing anything. Cause he uses it for his two plow trucks to unthaw.
 
Just figured I'd do an update to this thread versus starting my own. Got a little progress going with my wire tuck.

Relay box moved and relocated.

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Mounted the air bag sensor on the bottom of the fender instead of on top inside the engine bay.

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Headlight harness re-routed.

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Built a plug on each end, and fed it through the frame for easy wire chasing IF there ever is a problem.

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Its alot of work. Also got a donor 97 wire harness so that any wire that needed to be lengthened will get the same color wire added to it.
 
We did a really clean wiring tuck on WhiteKnights truck. It's in his build thread I believe in the p pump 24 valve section of dodge competition and performance
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I like to go fast
 
Engine is fully wired in these pics. Sorry they're not great. The harnesses from the computers come straight down out of the cowl in two spots. One on the passenger side of the engine for the electric water pump, alt field wires, pyro, and coolant temp, and one on the drivers side for crank sensor, and oil pressure. Alt charge wire is routes down and along bottom of radiator support over to fuse block.


I like to go fast
 
Engine is fully wired in these pics. Sorry they're not great. The harnesses from the computers come straight down out of the cowl in two spots. One on the passenger side of the engine for the electric water pump, alt field wires, pyro, and coolant temp, and one on the drivers side for crank sensor, and oil pressure. Alt charge wire is routes down and along bottom of radiator support over to fuse block.


I like to go fast

Did you guys leave the relay box on the driver fender ? Just kind of comparing and getting other ideas looking at how you guys did his. I also re-routed the power steering lines down and underneath the hydro boost to do away with the obnoxious stock ones.
 
This is the plug that will be bolted in the cowl. Has a bulk head fitting on the one side, and the engine bay harness for the water temp, oil pressure, etc will be pinned out and plug in. Making it easy you chase wires if need be.


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Looks badazz guys. One thing to note is if your truck is a DD get those deutsch connectors sideways or the backs down. They are dust and waterproof in all positions but when the back is up water can get it. That is the one no no for those connectors. Oftentimes they are fine but just forewarning any DD trucks doing this that water can and has gotten in with connectors back up.
 
Did you guys leave the relay box on the driver fender ? Just kind of comparing and getting other ideas looking at how you guys did his. I also re-routed the power steering lines down and underneath the hydro boost to do away with the obnoxious stock ones.


Yes, it was left on the drivers side fender. Had to make a mount for it as he is running re pop fenders and isn't running the wheel wells. We also moved the batteries to the bed which frees up a lot of room. And the electric fans are ran across the top of the radiator to a circuit breaker mounted near the drivers side headlight that gets it's power from the fuse block. The ground for the fans runs across with the power for the fans and is grounded on the stud on the drivers fender where the factory grounds connect.


I like to go fast
 
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Another pic with the new valve cover. We all really liked how there is no wiring that runs along the top of the engine anywhere. Everything on the passenger side runs under the manifold and is P clamped low near the oil pan rail to keep it away from the heat.


I like to go fast
 
Looks badazz guys. One thing to note is if your truck is a DD get those deutsch connectors sideways or the backs down. They are dust and waterproof in all positions but when the back is up water can get it. That is the one no no for those connectors. Oftentimes they are fine but just forewarning any DD trucks doing this that water can and has gotten in with connectors back up.


Forgot to mention this. Good point to bring up, yes mine will be mounted sideways.
 
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Another pic with the new valve cover. We all really liked how there is no wiring that runs along the top of the engine anywhere. Everything on the passenger side runs under the manifold and is P clamped low near the oil pan rail to keep it away from the heat.


I like to go fast

That does look good ! Got any pictures of how the wires are ran for the fans ? Trying to picture it in my head and can't seem to see it.
 
That does look good ! Got any pictures of how the wires are ran for the fans ? Trying to picture it in my head and can't seem to see it.


I don't right now. The controller for the fans comes mounted on the shroud (he got the flex a lite fans) and the wiring basically goes on top of the radiator using the original studs for the battery cable then runs down off the drivers side to right behind the headlight to the circuit breaker, and then just a power wire to the fuse block that's still mounted in the original spot. You'll see the ground post on the fender if you look at any truck, it has all the original grounds (for computer and sensors) ran to it and secured with a 10mm nut.


I like to go fast
 
I don't right now. The controller for the fans comes mounted on the shroud (he got the flex a lite fans) and the wiring basically goes on top of the radiator using the original studs for the battery cable then runs down off the drivers side to right behind the headlight to the circuit breaker, and then just a power wire to the fuse block that's still mounted in the original spot. You'll see the ground post on the fender if you look at any truck, it has all the original grounds (for computer and sensors) ran to it and secured with a 10mm nut.


I like to go fast

These are the first things I ditched on mine. I have sealed junction boxes for the body grounds, because in all honesty this is the claustomy of the mess in the harness from Dodge. I still can't wrap my head around why the would run 4 different ground, twist them all together, solder them, heat shrink them, then split it into 3 grounds on the other end? Makes no damn sense. And they run every which way and go absolutely nowhere. :doh:
 
These are the first things I ditched on mine. I have sealed junction boxes for the body grounds, because in all honesty this is the claustomy of the mess in the harness from Dodge. I still can't wrap my head around why the would run 4 different ground, twist them all together, solder them, heat shrink them, then split it into 3 grounds on the other end? Makes no damn sense. And they run every which way and go absolutely nowhere. :doh:

And they still continue to do that crap to this day. VP trucks are known for their piss poor grounds.


Slightly off topic but maybe every place does this: I worked for un-named bluw equipment dealer. While at training we took a tour of the factory and when the wire spool would run out at the factory they would push the ends of the new spool and old spool together and heat shrink it and call it good...apparently that is common practice. Blew my mind how chitty it was.
 
And they still continue to do that crap to this day. VP trucks are known for their piss poor grounds.


Slightly off topic but maybe every place does this: I worked for un-named bluw equipment dealer. While at training we took a tour of the factory and when the wire spool would run out at the factory they would push the ends of the new spool and old spool together and heat shrink it and call it good...apparently that is common practice. Blew my mind how chitty it was.

As long as it was soldered, it would be fine. Thats how I did my relay box. I took a harness plug off of a CR and pinned out the wires in the plug and soldered one end of the plug to the relay box. And the other end of the plug to the wire harness itself. This allows to un-plug the relay box completely if there is ever an issue. I think with all the relays that don't actually get used, and with having aftermarket stuff that has their own relays and does away with the factory one, I think I'm going to build my own relay panel and clean it up a little more. Theres 5 relays in my panel that doesnt get used, and 10 jumper wires that cant be removed without redoing the whole box.
 
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