Would you o-ring your block at home with this?

S

Swamp Donkey

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I am contemplating doing a little block o-ringing at home. Would you use this? Seems real straight forward. What do the performance shops use for block o-ringing?

Check this out



Seems way cheaper to just buy the tool than to send out my head for o-ringing when you factor in shipping etc. Also do you get a better seal from an o-ringed block as compared to an o-ringed head.
 
You know John,, that looks like something that I am willing to try,,, want to split on it? Tate might want in on this too,, maybe even go thirds

Kevin
 
I just came home from fort st john a couple of weeks ago.

Anyways, I would use something like that myself, but then again I'm also really cheap and like to do things/learn myself.

I used to have pictures of a guy o-ringing his 12v head in a cheap drill press. It was a build from europe if anybody has the links?
 
It will work just fine if your engine is out of the truck. Make sure you get some stainless wire instead of the copper stuff. The reason O ringing the head is the way most go is because they don't have to pull the engine to do it. #6 hole lives in tight quarters you may be able to get away with it or modify the cranks, but you will want to make sure you use even force all the way around the hole. Now the other question is what are you going to use to make sure your depth is exactly where you want it?

Jeremy
 
Correct me if I am wrong, but you dont O Ring the Block,, you Oring the head...... and it looks like the tool has depth settings on it...

Kevin
 
I know a guy that uses that set up on 2.3 ford turbo engines. I know its not a diesel but with around 800hp his still lives after 7 years only 2 gaskets popped and were most likely due to tuning issues.

But If I screwed up on the ringing Id rather buy a head then a block..
 
You can oring the block if you want. Like he said oringing the head is usually more cost feasable, lot cheaper to send the head somewhere, than pull the block.
 
You can o-ring either the block or the head or both. I agree with Loud&Obnoxious as in getting rid of the copper wire and get some good stainless other than that when I got my first head the machine shop that did the work used a tool just like this. As far as depth if I remember correctly the cutter was adjustable. Guy that did the work said he just measures the protrusion of the cutter with a pair of mics and makes several cuts to get where he wants to be. I figured a few machine shops would chime in on this thread. Not knowing if they all would want the cat out of the bag kinda thing though.
 
The more I read about this, the more I am thinking I am going to go for it.. as for the copper,, not sure I understand why it would not be as good as the stainless stuff

Kevin
 
I just read through that thread,, good reading. It brings up another question for me... can a person use this groove o matic on the head,, not on the block? And,, what does a person use to hold the rings in when resetting the head

Thanks

Kevin
 
I think I might try it. Going to pull the engine on my truck anyways for a clean-up and cam install and twins etc...
 
I have used it a few time and work fine if you go slow and make sure its all set right. Do not use copper wire it is too soft and will just crush, use Inconell saftey wire or something hard like that.
 
Just talking to my co-worker who has been pulling wrenches for years and who used to work at a race engine shop and he said he has done dozens of block o-ringing with the same set up. Mostly small and big block dodges. So Kevin, you can borrow it when I am done if you want............
 
Some one makes a tool like that you can do the head with too. It has a plate that bolts to the head. You have to be very carful when you use it though to make sure the groove is consistant depth. A buddy of mine used a tool like that to cut his block and he went through 3 head gaskets trying to get it to seal he finaly took it to a diesel shop and they ended up putting bigger groves in it and having special fire rings made for it. I would cut the head instead of the block it is easier to fix.
 
You can use this too, but it is not very accurate and you need practice befor you cut your block (small block chevy block is ideal for practice).

Copper wire will do the job up to 50 -60 lbs of boost
 
So,, I take it that this unit will not work for the head, only o-ringing the block... toolman, do you happen to remember where you seen that one for the head?

Thanks

Kevin
 
I would like to see pictures of someone doing it..... This is an interesting concept! :Cheer:
 
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